Frantz bypass oil filter
#11
11-15-2009, 09:40 AM
Banned
My initial photo shows filling the measuring pitcher from the faucet after starting with several drops of blue food coloring. This is followed by a close-up of the measured water to begin the test.
Next, it shows the clear beaker, a TP cartridge from a new Frantz Oil Filter from my stock, and a plastic container to plug up the center cardboard from retaining any volume of water during test. A plastic plug is in the top of the center cardboard. Now we’re ready to start the test.
I used a funnel to help direct the water directly into the TP and not filling the cardboard center or the bottom of the beaker.
The next photos are stages of filling the TP with the colored water from the pitcher.
A little spillage to the bottom of the beaker is absorbed from below.
Getting good absorbtion now.
Then a photo shows the saturation point indicated by fluid in the bottom of the beaker.
This surplus fluid is poured back into the pitcher leaving the beaker dry and containing a saturated roll of TP with colored water.
Now it is time to measure the remaining water in the pitcher and calculate the difference which is the water the roll of TP absorbed. The starting water was approximately 41 ounces or 1240 ml or a little over 2.5 pints of water. The final measurement was about 12 ounces or 865 ml or about 3/4 pint left. The difference equals 29 ounces or 865 ml or 1.75 pints of water absorbed. This is almost FIVE TIMES the amount of water Frantz claims the TP will retain or remove from your oil. I was quite impressed with the results of my unofficial experiment.
Getting back to my original statement, soot or carbon is also a product of combustion along with metal wear. The Frantz Oil Filter filters out these materials to a much finer degree simply because of the amount of filtering material the oil is run through in the filtering process.
These impurities are sometimes visible after installing a Frantz Oil Filter and changing the filter TP element. The top of the TP occasionally will have shiny objects embedded. Guess what? It’s not water or oil. It’s metal. Similarly, there will be dirty soot or carbon trapped by the Frantz TP element. These impurities diminish in severity as you continue to use the Frantz Filter and change your TP element regularly.
These are impurities your stock car manufacturer’s filter missed. Even though the Frantz Oil Filter does this excellent cleaning of your engine oil, it does not remove the additives the oil was produced with so you are still receiving those benefits. The result is the oil in your engine is almost as pure as when you first poured it in your engine.
Be aware however, the coloring may change. Black or dark oil is not necessarily dirty oil. The heat generated by the engine will act on the additives and sometimes change the original color of the oil. One of my car’s oil is a light machine oil color or very light honey color while my other car is a dark black color. One is easily viewed on the dipstick while the other could be mistaken for no oil at all on the dipstick.
A good test is using a blotter or coffee filter paper and drip a drop of oil onto it and after a few minutes, view it to see any soot or particles on the white paper. The oil should fade into just a darkened spot with no visible soot or anything else showing in the spot if it is clean. Of course you could also spend the money you are saving with your Frantz Oil Filter and have an oil sample evaluated and tested at a lab. This would be the ultimate proof.
Speaking of saving money, there is no need to change your Frantz Oil Filter TP cartridge every 1000 miles. This will negate the savings Frantz is trying to assist you with. Normal driving can expect a filter change about every 3000 miles or perhaps every two or three months.
Next, it shows the clear beaker, a TP cartridge from a new Frantz Oil Filter from my stock, and a plastic container to plug up the center cardboard from retaining any volume of water during test. A plastic plug is in the top of the center cardboard. Now we’re ready to start the test.
I used a funnel to help direct the water directly into the TP and not filling the cardboard center or the bottom of the beaker.
The next photos are stages of filling the TP with the colored water from the pitcher.
A little spillage to the bottom of the beaker is absorbed from below.
Getting good absorbtion now.
Then a photo shows the saturation point indicated by fluid in the bottom of the beaker.
This surplus fluid is poured back into the pitcher leaving the beaker dry and containing a saturated roll of TP with colored water.
Now it is time to measure the remaining water in the pitcher and calculate the difference which is the water the roll of TP absorbed. The starting water was approximately 41 ounces or 1240 ml or a little over 2.5 pints of water. The final measurement was about 12 ounces or 865 ml or about 3/4 pint left. The difference equals 29 ounces or 865 ml or 1.75 pints of water absorbed. This is almost FIVE TIMES the amount of water Frantz claims the TP will retain or remove from your oil. I was quite impressed with the results of my unofficial experiment.
Getting back to my original statement, soot or carbon is also a product of combustion along with metal wear. The Frantz Oil Filter filters out these materials to a much finer degree simply because of the amount of filtering material the oil is run through in the filtering process.
These impurities are sometimes visible after installing a Frantz Oil Filter and changing the filter TP element. The top of the TP occasionally will have shiny objects embedded. Guess what? It’s not water or oil. It’s metal. Similarly, there will be dirty soot or carbon trapped by the Frantz TP element. These impurities diminish in severity as you continue to use the Frantz Filter and change your TP element regularly.
These are impurities your stock car manufacturer’s filter missed. Even though the Frantz Oil Filter does this excellent cleaning of your engine oil, it does not remove the additives the oil was produced with so you are still receiving those benefits. The result is the oil in your engine is almost as pure as when you first poured it in your engine.
Be aware however, the coloring may change. Black or dark oil is not necessarily dirty oil. The heat generated by the engine will act on the additives and sometimes change the original color of the oil. One of my car’s oil is a light machine oil color or very light honey color while my other car is a dark black color. One is easily viewed on the dipstick while the other could be mistaken for no oil at all on the dipstick.
A good test is using a blotter or coffee filter paper and drip a drop of oil onto it and after a few minutes, view it to see any soot or particles on the white paper. The oil should fade into just a darkened spot with no visible soot or anything else showing in the spot if it is clean. Of course you could also spend the money you are saving with your Frantz Oil Filter and have an oil sample evaluated and tested at a lab. This would be the ultimate proof.
Speaking of saving money, there is no need to change your Frantz Oil Filter TP cartridge every 1000 miles. This will negate the savings Frantz is trying to assist you with. Normal driving can expect a filter change about every 3000 miles or perhaps every two or three months.
#12
11-15-2009, 10:51 AM
Hmm, looks nice, but there are three major mistakes!
1. Put that TP roll into engine oil, let it soak with oil and do the test again. You will be amazed how little water stays in the TP. The engine is filled up with oil, not with water. So does the filter.
2. The TP roll, if installed properly, does not have that space inside the filter housing to expand.
3. Can absorb doesn 't mean it does absorb.
The condensation you talk about builds up during short range driving. Drive a longer distance and see the amount of water diminishing into vapor . ( Unless you don't have a serious coolant leackage)
Engine oil does deteriorate over time and heatcycling.
Especially those higher molecules chains in 5 W40 for example.
These chains get cracked up. The viscosity is no longer able to cover grade 5 and grade40.
The heat and cold lubricity capabilities are getting smaller(lesser range). How do you call that if not deterioration?
Syns have a better withstand against that cracking. They are developed for that use.
Thats the major reason to change oil, along with getting rid of contaminants.
Or do you still have a SAE 30 engine? I don't think so.
I have opened on of those "Mann" bypass filters, there is a fiber inside looking like a TP roll, but it feels like a silk stuff. It compressed very tight together. Height is almost ( to stay in TP units ;-)) twice that height than a single TP. This is maybe the results for a longer usable duration of the filter. You can't rip or cut that filter. It sticks tight together.
Don't tell me you would use a TP main oil filter if available. You wouldn't trust a 90cent TP roll item to protect a value of lets say 20.000$ or 40.000$, would you?
You still use it, because failure doesn't matter if the TP filter cloggs- so what...?
Germans are hard to convince, huh?
1. Put that TP roll into engine oil, let it soak with oil and do the test again. You will be amazed how little water stays in the TP. The engine is filled up with oil, not with water. So does the filter.
2. The TP roll, if installed properly, does not have that space inside the filter housing to expand.
3. Can absorb doesn 't mean it does absorb.
The condensation you talk about builds up during short range driving. Drive a longer distance and see the amount of water diminishing into vapor . ( Unless you don't have a serious coolant leackage)
Engine oil does deteriorate over time and heatcycling.
Especially those higher molecules chains in 5 W40 for example.
These chains get cracked up. The viscosity is no longer able to cover grade 5 and grade40.
The heat and cold lubricity capabilities are getting smaller(lesser range). How do you call that if not deterioration?
Syns have a better withstand against that cracking. They are developed for that use.
Thats the major reason to change oil, along with getting rid of contaminants.
Or do you still have a SAE 30 engine? I don't think so.
I have opened on of those "Mann" bypass filters, there is a fiber inside looking like a TP roll, but it feels like a silk stuff. It compressed very tight together. Height is almost ( to stay in TP units ;-)) twice that height than a single TP. This is maybe the results for a longer usable duration of the filter. You can't rip or cut that filter. It sticks tight together.
Don't tell me you would use a TP main oil filter if available. You wouldn't trust a 90cent TP roll item to protect a value of lets say 20.000$ or 40.000$, would you?
You still use it, because failure doesn't matter if the TP filter cloggs- so what...?
Germans are hard to convince, huh?
Last edited by Deezel Stink3r; 11-15-2009 at 12:07 PM.
#13
11-19-2009, 07:01 PM
I installed my MotorGuard TP bypass when my truck hit 40,000 miles. Prior to that, I changed the oil and OEM filter at 5,000 mile intervals. That said, I've not "changed" my oil in over 70,000 miles now running my MotorGuard.
I change out the TP at 1500-2000 mile intervals and add the appropriate make up oil.....about a quart. I change the OEM filter yearly. My oil analysis come back stellar. I can post them if y'all insist.
The TP DOES NOT BREAK DOWN in the oil!!!!!! That is a fact. I can post pictures of that also if you'd like me to.
What do y'all have against these filters????? They've been used on automobiles since the '50's. TP was the best and tightest filter media available then. And now, it still filters (can you say sub-micronic) finer than any other mass produced bypass filter.
So until you've got hard facts about the TP filters, don't go spreading rumors about them. You sound like a jealous Amsoil saleman!!!!!
I change out the TP at 1500-2000 mile intervals and add the appropriate make up oil.....about a quart. I change the OEM filter yearly. My oil analysis come back stellar. I can post them if y'all insist.
The TP DOES NOT BREAK DOWN in the oil!!!!!! That is a fact. I can post pictures of that also if you'd like me to.
What do y'all have against these filters????? They've been used on automobiles since the '50's. TP was the best and tightest filter media available then. And now, it still filters (can you say sub-micronic) finer than any other mass produced bypass filter.
So until you've got hard facts about the TP filters, don't go spreading rumors about them. You sound like a jealous Amsoil saleman!!!!!
#14
11-19-2009, 07:17 PM
Years ago I know the military used these TP filters also but for some reason went away from them, can't tell ya why, never got an answer I believed on that one. From the readin I did a few years back when I wanted one of these things I would have to believe that they do work as promised but as was mentioned before my reservations were the fact that they actually filter such a small percentage of the oil.
Besides, what's wrong with soot. Doesn't soot help reduce friction to kinda like graphite.
Besides, what's wrong with soot. Doesn't soot help reduce friction to kinda like graphite.
#15
11-20-2009, 11:39 AM
You mentioned it already:
-"TP was the best and tightest filter media available then."-
We live in a world of micro- and nanofibers now. TP is not up to date.
Thats the reason.
I don't have anything against those filters( If I had I would use it).
Maybe it is simply to simple...
-"TP was the best and tightest filter media available then."-
We live in a world of micro- and nanofibers now. TP is not up to date.
Thats the reason.
I don't have anything against those filters( If I had I would use it
).Maybe it is simply to simple...
#16
11-21-2009, 08:09 PM
That is true, but I'd bet a months pay that a MotorGuard or a Frantz bypass filter, filters finer than any Amsoil or other brand of bypass filter. Newer/more modern doesn't essentially mean better. Just look at the "depth" of the TP vs. an Amsoil filter (just for example)!!!!! Quite a difference wouldn't you agree????!!!
#19
11-21-2009, 09:24 PM
back when all this happened they used to throw oil filters in the dumpsters. Was no such thing as EPA.
#20
11-21-2009, 10:18 PM
I'm glad to have you boys so worked up. Debates can really bring out good (or bad) points on the subject.
Personally, I'm not worried about particles smaller than what Cummins sais is ok for our engines (20 microns - I think?). I don't think these engines have a need for extra cleen oil. How many engine failures do you know of due to falty lubrication systems on a Cummins? It's common for the engine to out last the rest of the truck.
To me, the value in this kind of product is not needing to change my synthetic oil more than once a year. I only drive about 12,000 miles per year, so my maintenance schedule is seasonal and looks like this. Fall - change BHAF, oil, oil filter, and TP filter. Winter, Spring and Summer, each season change TP filter and top off oil. At that rate, the TP filter pays for itself in under 2 years - mostly because of the high cost of synthetic oil, and the 2.5 gallon oil pan my truck has. The extra cleen oil is just a posative side efect in my opinion. 2 or 10 micron filtration - either one is good in my book.
Personally, I'm not worried about particles smaller than what Cummins sais is ok for our engines (20 microns - I think?). I don't think these engines have a need for extra cleen oil. How many engine failures do you know of due to falty lubrication systems on a Cummins? It's common for the engine to out last the rest of the truck.
To me, the value in this kind of product is not needing to change my synthetic oil more than once a year. I only drive about 12,000 miles per year, so my maintenance schedule is seasonal and looks like this. Fall - change BHAF, oil, oil filter, and TP filter. Winter, Spring and Summer, each season change TP filter and top off oil. At that rate, the TP filter pays for itself in under 2 years - mostly because of the high cost of synthetic oil, and the 2.5 gallon oil pan my truck has. The extra cleen oil is just a posative side efect in my opinion. 2 or 10 micron filtration - either one is good in my book.
