1999 F-350 lariat crewcab 7.3 turbo diesel with 4wd trouble
#11
You don't need a hub conversion kit, you need a set of dana 60 lock-out hubs. if you have a dually its said only the Mile Marker 449SS kit fits (my 01 has them, and they rock) if you have singles the MM works, Superwinch 400439, and Warn 38826 also make them. Expect to pay around maybe 100-150 (my MM's were 149 from Summit, I did NOT need the special nut kit they sold me, if someone needs it, PM me for a FREE kit). Oh so worth it to throw those vacuum POS out and know either they're in, or their out, and the piece of mind to know they're completely reliable. Machined billet parts are way stronger than the cast powered metal stuff ford used.
If you replace the hubs with non-vacuum manual units plug off the vacuum line on the vacuum canister up on the passengers side above the front tire, whatever lines are not headed toward the heater box are the ones to pull out of the rubber boot and stick a golf tee in the boot and snap it off. If you don't plug this line count on the heater defaulting to Defrost all the time.
If you replace the hubs with non-vacuum manual units plug off the vacuum line on the vacuum canister up on the passengers side above the front tire, whatever lines are not headed toward the heater box are the ones to pull out of the rubber boot and stick a golf tee in the boot and snap it off. If you don't plug this line count on the heater defaulting to Defrost all the time.
#12
#13
#14
Ford Powerstroke 99-03 7.3L
Ok I think that I have decided to go with manual locking hubs. just a few questions first. I think that in my older trucks the 4wd had to be disengaged whenever it was on dry pavement. I believe that the hubs could be left in the locked position if it had the shifting lever inside set in neutral. With my newer truck it has the switch inside for on the fly auto locking hubs. can the hubs be left in gear and still switched that way (vacuum assisted?). It doesn't sound right to me. Can/will it damage the transfer case if left in on dry pavement? And lastly, someone mentioned that I have to know if it is a dana 50 or 60. How do I tell? When I checked the websites for sales it just went through year,make,model, and trim package. I would hate to get the wrong set and be stuck with them.
Thanks in advance
Chuck T.
Thanks in advance
Chuck T.
#15
Ok I think that I have decided to go with manual locking hubs. just a few questions first. I think that in my older trucks the 4wd had to be disengaged whenever it was on dry pavement. I believe that the hubs could be left in the locked position if it had the shifting lever inside set in neutral. With my newer truck it has the switch inside for on the fly auto locking hubs. can the hubs be left in gear and still switched that way (vacuum assisted?). It doesn't sound right to me. Can/will it damage the transfer case if left in on dry pavement? And lastly, someone mentioned that I have to know if it is a dana 50 or 60. How do I tell? When I checked the websites for sales it just went through year,make,model, and trim package. I would hate to get the wrong set and be stuck with them.
Thanks in advance
Chuck T.
Thanks in advance
Chuck T.
My wife locks the hubs at first snow, and most times does not unlock them until spring. I will leave mine locked for months on end, only thing your hurting is your pocket book because your fuel milage will go down slightly.
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