I appreciate the responses. I guess I should invest in getting the device to monitor the truck.

The following is an update I wrote on another forum:

For the past couple days the truck has ran fine. The first start is hard, but once it warms up, I shut off the engine and start it back up, and drive without issue.

Also, at night I have plugged it in, and it starts right up in the morning, and runs fine. Then after 8 hours of sitting while at work, it is hard to start, but I make sure to let it warm up, then shut it down and starts right up, and no issues.

Today, while it was warming up after work, it shut off. Is started right back up, and I let it warm up more. Then As soon as I went to pull forward, the ol' Wait to Start nonsense started again.

I barely went anywhere and it kept doing it. I would barely go 10 feet and again. I tried to drive home anyway, and I would have spurts that it was fine, and then it would do it again. It only did it a few times on freeway, and when I got off on state route, I ended up traveling on the side of the road because it was hard to maintain the speed limit as it was constantly cutting out.

I didn't want to call AAA again when I was so close to home, so I took it all the way home like this, a couple more miles. I had one more turn, and a curve totaling maybe 1.5 miles and it was fine that distance to the house.

 

On something to "monitor" your truck, look at this post and take ideas from from my post for test tools:
https://www.dieselbombers.com/ford-p...ml#post1050573

On what is wrong with your truck... I'm known for diagnostics, but even I wouldn't even want to make a guess on your's. That's something you really need your own diagnostic tools for-- to check it out yourself. It's one of those intermittent things that you have to catch or record when it's happening. I didn't see that you read codes on that, which would be a start.

Seems to me, if the WTS light is coming on while driving, that the glow plugs are being energized at an inappropriate time? Wow. Not good. I'd have to see that for myself.

 

I ignored this problem for a couple months and just parked the truck for the rest of winter.

Ever since I replaced my clutch, I have been having this random loss of power and the "Wait to Start" light comes on, and I release the gas, then press and it truck regains power. Some times it does it again almost immediately, some times at different intervals. I never really get much past 20 miles per hour if that.

The last time I tried to mess with it, it was doing it while idling, which was not happening originally.

After it sat for a month and warmed up. I started it on a nice day. It started with no issue, and I drove it a couple miles around block, and no problem. I think parked it for about 2 weeks since I didn't have time to risk a problem.

I started it today, let it idle for at least a half hour while I gathered tools to put in it before taking it to pick up some supplies. Didn't hear an issue at all. Then right as I pulled onto the road, it started happening. And happening bad. I turned around and brought it back. Parked, turned it off for a minute. Then started it back up, and drove it for several miles without any issue.

Now I am afraid to go any further and risk a problem.

At some point after clutch, I did replace the Camshaft sensor since it was cheap and easy.

Last person I talked to says a computer issue. Since it appears it thinks the glow plugs need to come on. It there a thermostat somewhere that might be reading wrong and causing the glow plugs to kick on? I ask because of the inconsistency. The first day I drove it fine, it was warmer than today.

 

Is when you originally posted, posters tried to explain to you that the codes you thought you had were "misleading." Your truck fell into a loop-hole about being OBD compliant... So a code scanner has to have a Ford Extended PID's to be able to read it.

You've been chasing a code that pertains to a coolant temperature sensor. Your truck has not such animal. The coolant "sending unit" on that year is analog and goes directly to an analog gauge, not through the computer. So that code you've been chasing about a coolant sensor is just that scanner not understanding the OBS ECU.

The glow plugs and temperature... the PCM for OBS, gets the temp through IAT (intake air temperature)... which is a small temp probe that inserted into the air cleaner housing. Other than that, all other logic for the GPR is in the ECU (PCM) and IDM. If it is intermittent, like you say it has been, I would be looking for a bare wire, shorting out or causing an open condition intermittently in that IAT circuit or... in loosing the IGN voltage to the whole GPR system.

My recommendation? First find someone who can read the codes from your truck... Just blindly replacing parts in an OBS is not a cost-effective solution... Because the logical part that is being pointed to (by some others) is your computer. You always could just try plugging in another (used or borrowed) PCM and see if it works. It doesn't have to be the same year. It doesn't have to be all the way mounted (could be on the fender-well to try). It could be from 94.5 to 97, but have the same transmission. But remember that the glow plugs system also goes through the IDM. (Which better scanners can also read codes from...)

But... The WTS light is on a timer, not really logically connected to the GPR logic. I'm told, it is a dummy-light guide to for the driver to wait a pre-determined time before turning the key. It comes on when you first turn the key switch to on... The GPR is actually on still while that light goes off (not inter-related to timing between). So if your WTS "AND" GPR are intermittently cycling at the same time... going down the road, that is really not the leaning towards the ECU logic, but rather that you are loosing IGN voltage somewhere, then getting it back, so that it thinks the key was turned off, then on again. Have you tried looking at your ignition switch? Maybe wire in temporary test light to Ign On... and see if it goes out just before that re-cycles.

 

Hi,
New here so sorry about hijacking this thread but can't see how to start a new one.

Got a problem!

Changed the cam position sensor, exhaust sensor and the fuel filter.
Now it cuts out intermittently.
Have tried bleeding the schrader valve but it doesn't seem to be improving.
Have put 100 miles on it thinking it might "self" bleed if that is the problem.
Is it possible the new CPS is bad?

Wanted to put the old one back in to see if that changed anything but of course I can't find it!

 

I've been chasing a problem that sounds a lot like yours.

I rebuilt the IPR and the truck runs better but still has a skip. At least it has not died again.

I did unplug the ICP and found oil in the connector, from what I've read that means the ICP is bad and can lead to these symptoms. I will be replacing the ICP shortly and hope that clears the problem.

 

Turns out the CPS was bad, even though I changed it a 2nd time (NAPA parts) and ended up taking it to the shop...they installed a FORD CPS and it runs fine now.

Never got and answer on this thread so started a new one on my issue.

Bottom line was because the 2 new CPS were both junk it cost me an extra $200 to discover it.

Wasn't happy about that but glad my truck is running right again.

 

What to take home. Always buy a ford or ih cps