i bought a 96 powerstroke that has been wrecked in the front. the engine turns over but wont crank. the fueI fiIter is fuII and the hpop is fuII as weII. but it wiII run on diese safe starting fIuid. ANY IDEAS

 

Did any AF the front sensors get smashed in the wreck?

 

Are you saying that: The starter will turn the motor over... but it will not start and run on it's own accord without using starter fluid?

If so, then you are not getting fuel.

It's an electronically controlled diesel motor. For it to get fuel, there are a other few things that have to happen, besides the actual fuel physically getting from the tank to the injectors (via the fuel bowl).
- The battery's have to be above 10.5 volts. (charge battery's. check with VOM)
- The low pressure fuel has to be above 20 psi (mine is 54psi cranking at the Schraeder valve)
- The HPOP (ICP) pressure has to get above 500 PSI. (test ipr with VOM if not)
- Has to have power going to the PCM and IDM. (check fuses with VOM)
- Has to having working sensors (CPS, ICP, IPR, Low Pressure Oil) (<-- VOM or scanner)
- Should have a working glow plug system. (<-- VOM or Scanner)
- Has to have a complete circuits to and from the injectors and glow plugs. (<-- VOM)

If it starts with starting fluid, runs and continues to run while started (on it's own fuel supply)... It is getting fuel physically. It may still be low fuel pressure, but something else would be more likely.

First thing would be to check all the fuses... It happens.

In a front end wreck... I would check the Cam Position Sensor (CPS). They seem NOT to be hardy and are very sensitive to damage from an impact, such as in the crash you described. Next on the list, would be the glow plugs, glow plug wiring and glow plug relay. That relay will sometimes stop working from just sitting for a while (long period of time without use) in a somewhat damp environment, with the internal contacts corroding. It is the same relay type as the starting relay near the passenger side battery.

If it is a damp environment, then the IDM is also sensitive to sitting for long periods of time. It sometimes gets moisture built up inside it's cover... Then when you try to start it, with that moisture in there, will blow the diodes in it. But when that happens, usually it blows one of the 2 diodes and after it starts, (will need help to start,) it will be running on half the injectors.

If you had a friend with a scanner that could read your truck... Most common scanners won't read an OBS PSD's PCM. That includes all scanners used and sold by your local auto parts stores. The PCM for the 7.3l was an exception to OBD/OBD II standards. A low cost solution for that is an Android phone, Car Gauge Pro, Torque Pro and an OBD/BT adapter. (About $25 to $30 for all 3 if you already have a phone.)

With Car Gauge Pro, you can even do injector buzz tests... With Torque Pro, you can read and record the live data to see what is going on... and use that live data as a diagnostic tool. But the important thing, will first be to read the DTC codes to see what it is saying is wrong, then to look at the live data to see if the requirements to start are being fulfilled. The PCM itself, is a good diagnostics tool.

Other than that, then you would have to check things out with a VOM.

If your batteries where below 10.5 volts while cranking... the PCM will throw a false negative on an intermittent CPS out-of-range. That is normal, but since that is suspect for the damage you got... to see that accurately, you'd have to make sure the batteries are at full charge, clear the codes and re-test it.

Complex electronics are sensitive to shock from a heavy impact. There are 509 sensors on your truck. The replacement costs on those electronic controls together exceed the value of that truck. Don't go blindly replacing stuff. A VOM (volt ohm meter) and a scanner that can communicate with an OBS PSD will save you a lot of guessing. I also have Autoenginuity with the Extended Ford Package, on a Laptop. It was an investment. Very powerful diagnostics that can read all 509 sensors on my OBS. I can toggle their function to test each one individually, if needed. I can see as much and has just about the same functionalities as what the Ford Dealer uses on their laptops...I can reprogram the PATS on my newer Ford Vehicles... You could probably rationalize that as part of the cost of your truck purchase and repair. If you figure that it would save going to the dealer 3-4 times, for them to plug in to look at your vehicle's PCM... it would have already paid for itself. But some people have other priorities for their money, then what I suggested with an Android phone may be a good substitute. I have and use both. Hard to go at an electronically controlled diesel blind.

 

Im sure you already have checked. But you might check the oil level.HPOP can be full and the crank case can be low and not have enough volume to fire the engine.

 

i think the probIem is in the wiring for the aIarm.