when i am driving along my truck cuts out for a split second then resumes normal operation.
my thoughts were possably injectors? i just put a new fuel filter in it, didnt help. any ideas? or how to check the injectors?

 

cps or ipr? just a guess

 

just a guess but mine did that. any check engine lights? could be ur throttle position sensor/ pedal position sensor. there are 3 sensor on the pedal.my 97psd was dooing the same thing but with a error light just an idea

 

I had that exact problem with my 96, turns out it was the cps...30 dollars part. it took a 10 mm wrench i believe and ten minutes to change. it is located on the front of the motor near the crank pulley. if you are looking straight at the fron of the truck, it is the 10 o' clock postion. just one bolt and one plug...my truck ran like a champ after i changed it

 

i got a 97 powerstroke and a month ago it started kinda doing th same thing i would be crusing down the road and it would lose pwer like your foot slipped off the pedal i played with the relay on the pedal and didint have a problem again but recently it started doing it again its not blowing white smoke or anythin and it only does it periodically. help??

 

To the guys with a cutting out problem...
My truck did this exact same thing and started about a month ago and the first thing I did was change the cps and it did it again. It was not very often but when it cut out, the check engine light would flicker on and off and the wait to start light would come on and off. I got a scan gauge to see any codes it threw and I figured out the every time it cut out and did this, the PCM was losing power and shutting down cause the gauge would go off. It ended up being the my chip was loose. Quick fix for me but was very frustrating.
Hope this might help

 

make sure the batter hold downs are tight. on my 94 the passenger side battery would slide over and the positive terminal would hit the crank for the jack causing it to short and kill all power.

 

94 f350 7.3 diesel 5-speed

I recently had my clutch go out. The flywheel was all tore up, and I replaced the clutch set and flywheel.

The night I finished, I drove my buddy home, about an hour round trip and it ran great.

The next morning, as I hit the road off my driveway I lost acceleration and "Wait to Start" light came on. It went away quickly, and I continued to go to work. It happened a couple more times.

And I noticed that it was much harder to start for the first time of the day. I have to cycle power about 4 times to get it to turn over.

Since then some times I go in spurts where it keeps doing in a few times in a row, and other times maybe just once or twice in a 30 minute trip.

I changed the Cam Position Sensor because of the advise on here. It started right up, and I picked up a pizza with no issues.

The next morning I went to go out, and it was a hard start, and it started doing it again right out of the driveway.

I notice that it doesn't go away until I release the gas pedal. It just happened to me and I tried to keep the pedal depressed to see what happened, and it continues to just slow down.

My buddy suggested that I actually got a bad CPS, but I'm not sure.

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After letting truck sit for a couple hours while I posted on here and looked for answers, I started her up, and she started right up. I drove to the part store, and hooked a computer up to it. (No issues on the way)

Codes:

DTC 116

DTC 50

DTC 845

The guy helping me insisted on helping, and then got busy, so he ran off right after getting the codes.

116 is a engine temp. It is possible that it was not warm enough yet.

But that raises the question of how long it should take to warm up.


The other 2 codes, I can't find anywhere. Any ideas? I wanted to be a dick and tell the guy I was there first and he should help me, but I just left. I didn't know they are they only shop that has the old style code scanner.

 

Those arnt ford codes that I have ever heard of, im guessing they are ones the code reader uses?

On my AE the oil temps have to be 180 before you can do some of the tests

 

The Ford Manual for my '97 says 40F for IAT and 170F for EOT. AE confirms that my EBP system switches off at 170F.

Diesels are cold blooded. It takes a while. I have an EOT gauge (Torque Pro on my Android phone) that I watch in the winter.

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Since Bob has AE as I do... I think he would agree... Intermittent problems are hard to trace. I trace those by hooking up AE on live data and recording sessions. I you drive and have no problems, then you can over write the file. If you do have problems, you can see it and possibly trace it down.

You are not going to want to hear my experience of "my own" with that... It was the IDM. But you know, that kind of thing could be anything electrical and be the same symptoms. That could also be the injector wiring harness, battery cables, etc, etc, etc.