basically you monitor the engine oil temp and engine coolant temp, they should always stay close, maybe within 10degrees, but I think the magic number is anything over 15 degree variance is bad. when engine oil is too much higher than the coolant temp it means the cooler is not doing its job properly and is getting clogged up.

 

Hence getting gauges correct? So a engine oil temp gauge and a coolant temp gauge is that what I will need down the road? I know a EGT is a must for sure.Fuel pressure also. Dang I am going to have gauges coming out of my ears,going to look like a airplane cockpit when it is done.

 

Heads came in today and they look great. They are really well done my mechanic told me when he saw them. So I finally got the cash for the ARP Head studs , so will order them tonight . I need to get the EGR Cooler welded still and then it should be time to start putting it all together. Cleaning everything now to get it all prepped. Bottom end looks really good all the regular oil changing must have paid off.
Took the front clip off so it was not so bad taking the motor out.Excursions are not a cab off job ,it would be a real pain.
I read some where that I may need to replace the torque converter bolts?

 

It's seriously hardly any more work taking the cab off an X than it is a crew cab truck... just a couple extra body mounts, the gas filler neck and the tail light plugs from what I hear...

Either way, glad you're getting it taken care of!

 

True but all the rear AC is a pain in the .....We had the motor out in about 4 hours. Thanks got to get this right.

 

You might need the new torque coverter nuts, you will need 6 of them, they are the self locking type and are really only good for one use, they are cheap and the new ones have a little extra surface,not as rounded as the originals so less likely to strip them. Pull your pan right before you put it back in the X to make sure no junk got in it while cleaning the block up, the gaskets are reusable and it is nice to know it clean.
When you put the pushrods back in make sure you push on them with your thumb, should fell them spring back up a little, what happens if you don't get them right is you wind up with some broken rockers and a bent pushrod.

 

Just wondering if I need to pull the HPOP and change out the screen while I have the motor out?

 

You don't need to pull the HPOP for any screen, I'm assuming since you are going to be doing all this work that you are going to bebuild your oil cooler/highly recommended/ if so the screen for the HPOP is actually under the oil cooler, the only other screen is on the end of the IPR, its a good time to pull that too and inspect the little screen on it to make sure it's not damaged or clogged.

 

Yes I bought a new oil cooler.The IPR Screen I will check out.

 

I know the old rule , if is not broke don`t fix it. Then the IPR is old and not exactly easy to replace when it is all back together. I wonder about just replacing it now? Like I need to spend more money. Maybe I just answered my own question. LOL