Working on a 2006 6.0.

EGR cooler took a ****...so I put a EGR delete kit on...also put an intake & exhaust on while I was at it.

Just did a test drive and it is slow to build boost. Will build if you keep it floored for a while...but if you try to do a brake stand it won't go over 1500rpm & 0 boost.

Any ideas?? Thx!

 

Is there a tuner on it? How many miles on it? Is there smoke coming out when you're doing this?

Did you drive the truck before the work, do you know if it was ok before the work/egr cooler failure?

Need more info about the truck. See the sticky at the top of the 6.0 section "new guys read here before posting tech questions" it will help us get more info.

Welcome to the site.

 

Completely stock. 90.000 mi....truck ran fine before the EGR cooler went out. Its my work truck...so I've driven it a lot. It's been a lemon though...it's on it's 4th turbo.

 

Going through a lot of turbos is a typical sign of a grocery getter 6.0 that doesn't get worked hard, OR a 6.0 that idles a lot, OR a combination of the two. These motors like to be worked and exercised.

Is there smoke coming out when you do this and what color is it if it is? Do you still have the EGR valve in place or did you delete that too?

 

Ive had a 2004 & 2006 6.0...I currently have a 97 12 valve and a 06 5.9 dodge...this truck usually has 1000lb in the bed or a 4000lb trailer...it isn't a grocery getter.

 

I can't help you anymore because you have ignored my questions twice now. Still need to know if there is smoke coming out and if so what color.

Going through 4 turbo's doesn't make your truck a lemon. It means there is some other underlying issue here. I could see a turbo going bad, but not 4 of them in less than 100k. Especially on a stock truck. I've been pushing my stock turbo past it's limits for almost the whole life of the truck, I am at the same mileage as you now and still kicking on the stock turbo. What exactly is happening with these turbo's? Are they just seizing the unison rings or completely grenading?

I can't believe I didn't think of this already, but is it possible you have a leak at your up-pipe section? This is VERY common with guys doing EGR deletes for the first time, I myself had this issue, lower boost was the result and slow to spool, EGT's took forever to cool off etc.

If you don't have a leak and did it the "right way" then just ignore this, but the order of operations when replacing the up-pipe...

Loosely set everything in place and bolt, but do not tighten just yet.
First, tighten y-pipe collector to turbo
tighten down-pipe to turbo
tighten turbo down to pedestal
then work your way down. Tightening the up-pipe to the y-collector is often very difficult with the turbo in place, so you may find it easier to start with that so the y-pipe and up-pipe become one piece, then tighten at the turbo first, then tighten the up-pipe to the exhaust manifold LAST. This should ensure a good seal at the turbo. Those v-band clamps do not have enough force to "pull" things together. Hope this helps, it should at least be a good place to look for starters.

 

Sry....missed that. There in no smoke...I'll check for
Leaks. Thanks!