2010 e350 6.0 vehicle on the road started to get rough idle,was able to bring home and park unit. next day start engine, crank but wont start. change oil and filter, also replaced both fuel filter. ( below 8,000 miles only) imported from United State to the Philippine) warranty not covered. no trouble codes.

 

I moved your post here, to get more exposure. Now you have your own thread!

First thing's first. How is this van used primarily? How many miles are on it? Does it spend a lot of time idling or anything else we should know about?

When it was dying, did it just lose power and shut off? Any smoke coming out when this happened?

When you try cranking it now, is there any smoke coming out? The answer to this question will tell us which direction to look.

 

2010 e350 6.0 liter engine with less than 8,000 miles, no trouble codes.
van is a TV station used to go onsite to cover news,equipped w/ monitors and own generator.
while being driven, engine started to get rough with a sound like engine knock. was able to get it back to station and parked engine off,then turn on engine, re-start won't start.
next day still no start. scan for codes, no codes.check all fuses (pcm fuse) ok.
change oil and fuel filter. check battery voltage, passed, 12.5 volts.
no smoke while being cranked, no sign of any outside oil or fuel leak.
van has been imported from the US (privately) and no warranty came with it since it was shipped here in the Philippines, sure need all the help from anyone.

 

Since there are so many electronics in the vehicle, are there any wires that run near or over the FICM. The FICM is on the drivers side of the motor just below and behind the coolant reservoir. Sounds to me that its likely a wire dealing with the install of electronics has shorted the FICM. Everyone else chime in lets get this guy back rolling.

added minor thought here
not to insult your intelligence but i assume nothing is blocking the airfilter...

 

No smoke coming out tells us the injectors simply are not firing. There are two ways we can go with this, first is electronics. The FICM is usually the likely culprit, but with only 8k miles on this rig I surely hope it's not that. What is alarming to me is the 12.5 volts... are you testing the batteries OFF of the van? If they're in the van and only reading 12.5 there's an issue there. Two batteries hooked up that way should be over 14V.

I would start with testing the FICM. It's a relatively simple procedure and will at least eliminate some things for us. You can find how to do this here: 6.0's, FICM's and Cold Start Problems - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

If the FICM passes all testing then it's more than likely a high pressure oil leak. We rely on high pressure oil to fire our injectors. It could be a NUMBER of things here, and a scanner would really be the best way to find out what is going on. Do you have access to a scanner? We would need to monitor injection control pressure, or ICP. Your later 6.0 should have the ICP sensor located in the passenger side valve cover, it passes right through. If you don't have a scanner handy, just simply unplug that sensor and try starting the truck. The PCM will default and at least let it start. You probably won't be able to drive it, but it should fire. The IPR valve, behind the turbo on the drivers side could also be sticking open. I find it hard to believe it is, with the mileage you have, but it'd be the next place to look. You can see why having a scanner would make this much easier. With a scanner, you can measure actual ICP vs. desired ICP. Desired is what the computer is telling the high pressure oil system it needs, and actual is what it is actually delivering. At idle it should be around 575 desired, under WOT it should go close to 4000. If actual is not keeping up with desired, then there is an issue. If you do not have a scanner... pull ICP and try to start... if that doesn't work, pull the IPR valve. Inspect it. There is a screen on it, if it is filled with metal shavings, the HPOP is done. Again, I highly doubt it's that.

My guess is electrical, just based on mileage alone.