FICM test procedure
Diesel Fan
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
It drops and then recovers due to the amperage load through it. Essentially, the load through it gets cut down as operating temp increases. Sadly, though, the module needs to be serviced. Give us a call to discuss - we're at 515-897-4459 - or just send it on in. We can also ship you out a pre-programmed and ready to go unit as well to limit your downtime to the amount of time it takes to swap out modules. In addition, if you are looking to fall in love with your 6.0 again, we could hook you up with a performance tune on the module from PHP.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
1st time here. Having problem with 6.0 starting. 2006 F250 126,000 miles. 4 injectors and a fuel pump only work ever done to it. Takes to long to fire up most of the time. Worse when the nose is parked uphill. If I loosen and retighten the secondary filter cover when it doesn't start she fires up like a new truck. The fuel pump was just done as the repair shop stated that was the cause. It wasn't 
She runs great after started?
Thanks for any suggestions.
She runs great after started?Thanks for any suggestions.
Diesel Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 117
Likes: 4
Try this, it's an example, just do the part 2 if you don't have a fancy scanner to do the buzz test. For step 3-4 I don't know if just turning the key on would pull up the fault. Do NOT start the truck when swapping harness in step 3
Could be the fuel injector or the wiring connector.
1. Clear the codes and perform the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) and injector buzz tests to verify if the code P0270 returns as a hard fault without running the vehicle.
2. If the code is a hard fault, access the #4 fuel injector (the second one back on the driver's side). Check the resistance between pins 1 and 2, then 3 and 4 on the injector itself. This will check the resistance of each coil in the injector. The resistance will typically be around 1-2 ohms. If either coil shows abnormally high or low, replace the injector.
3. If the injector checks OK with an ohmmeter, try to swap the harness connectors for injectors 2 and 4. Clear the codes and see if the codes follow the injector. If now the code setting is for #2 injector, again replace the faulty #4 injector.
4. If the code shows #4 injector with a different injector plugged in to the wire harness, check the 4 wires from the #4 injector back to the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) for high resistance, open circuit, short to ground, or any continuity to each other and repair as needed."
Could be the fuel injector or the wiring connector.
1. Clear the codes and perform the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) and injector buzz tests to verify if the code P0270 returns as a hard fault without running the vehicle.
2. If the code is a hard fault, access the #4 fuel injector (the second one back on the driver's side). Check the resistance between pins 1 and 2, then 3 and 4 on the injector itself. This will check the resistance of each coil in the injector. The resistance will typically be around 1-2 ohms. If either coil shows abnormally high or low, replace the injector.
3. If the injector checks OK with an ohmmeter, try to swap the harness connectors for injectors 2 and 4. Clear the codes and see if the codes follow the injector. If now the code setting is for #2 injector, again replace the faulty #4 injector.
4. If the code shows #4 injector with a different injector plugged in to the wire harness, check the 4 wires from the #4 injector back to the Fuel Injection Control Module (FICM) for high resistance, open circuit, short to ground, or any continuity to each other and repair as needed."
FormerVendor
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 115
Likes: 2
If you opted to send the FICM over to us, we could test the FICM for you on our bench and CATEGORICALLY tell you whether the FICM was a problem as well - just another option for you that could well beat the alternative approach of
. LOLHope this helps!
Ed
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Hey, Guys. Been following this thread, read all the way through. Cold start issue, 2007 F250 6.0L. Tested FICM, showed faulty and replaced. Batteries at 12.5 volts. Turn key, wait for GP's to heat up, then crank. Spins V-E-R-Y slow just like it has a dead battery. Check voltage after half-dozen to a dozen spins, voltage on batteries drop to 10! Batteries are new, alternator is new. Hook up charger and apply 200 amps surge and it will start. Very frustrating. Ran scanner, no codes. Glow Plug test read good. ICP looks normal when running. Help!
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
My 2005 F-350 has had some sort of eletrical problem for 2 years. Just rolled past 90K miles. Instrument panel says TBC fault and "Trailer Dosconnected" 5 times in a 10 mile drive.
This truck gets driven maybe 3 miles on an average day. It starts fine when cold but after warm up it will turn over, maybe "rumble" at around 300 RPM then die. Still get the glow plug heater "coil heater" symbol in the top right and 6 dings before I turn the switch to Start.
Last night it started fine when I went to the store. I shut off the motor to save deisel but I was in the store less than 5 minutes and it would turn over but never hit. I heard the batteries slowing down so I quit trying. Popped the hood. Had three different pickup owners drift over to see if they could help. One guy had a small SUV and his battery looked small too. He accidently hooked his end of my heavy duty jumper cables backwards and when he touched the hot clamp to his ground post he had sparks galore. He finally got it right but had to get in and rev up his to give me more amperege.
My truck finally started and we drove home. This morning my wife hopped in for a quick test and the batteries were COMPLETELY dead. Also, the info center, MPG, etc is totally blank. I put the charger on 10 amp slow charge 2 hours ago, going now to switch to 30 AMP fast charge for 1/2 hour then try to start it.
Pretty sure I have had a dead glow plug, front plug on passenger side. You can smell unburned deisel in the exhaust. This truck doesn't smoke at all. But something else is wrong, I need some advice please.
Thank You,
Rick
This truck gets driven maybe 3 miles on an average day. It starts fine when cold but after warm up it will turn over, maybe "rumble" at around 300 RPM then die. Still get the glow plug heater "coil heater" symbol in the top right and 6 dings before I turn the switch to Start.
Last night it started fine when I went to the store. I shut off the motor to save deisel but I was in the store less than 5 minutes and it would turn over but never hit. I heard the batteries slowing down so I quit trying. Popped the hood. Had three different pickup owners drift over to see if they could help. One guy had a small SUV and his battery looked small too. He accidently hooked his end of my heavy duty jumper cables backwards and when he touched the hot clamp to his ground post he had sparks galore. He finally got it right but had to get in and rev up his to give me more amperege.
My truck finally started and we drove home. This morning my wife hopped in for a quick test and the batteries were COMPLETELY dead. Also, the info center, MPG, etc is totally blank. I put the charger on 10 amp slow charge 2 hours ago, going now to switch to 30 AMP fast charge for 1/2 hour then try to start it.
Pretty sure I have had a dead glow plug, front plug on passenger side. You can smell unburned deisel in the exhaust. This truck doesn't smoke at all. But something else is wrong, I need some advice please.
Thank You,
Rick
Last edited by ForensicChemist1; Dec 12, 2016 at 01:14 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
05 FICM crank,no start
Hey guys I have a question about the FICM problem I have. I have an 05 Powerstoke when I turn on the key I get 30v on the FICM eventually it goes to 47.5v when I crank. I know my batteries are bad they don't hold a charge for long. Could that be why my power is low when I first turn the key on? I have good ICP good IPR and good SYC. The only thing is that FICM volts when I first turn the key. Any help will be Appreciated. Thanks in advance
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
2003 ford 6.0 misfire help needed
I swear I copy the link for this and repost it here 20x a week, so instead I'm just going to post the whole deal here.
This was borrowed from Swamps via PSN. I did not write these, just merely reposting the info for you guys to follow...
6.0’s, FICM’s and cold-start issues.
If your 6.0 will not start cold, the issue may be either the glow plugs or glow plug controller, or it can be the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module). If after a long cranking with no start you get a lot of white smoke (raw unburnt fuel) out the exhaust, the problem is in the glow plug system. If you do not get any smoke, the problem is probably in the FICM.
The 6.0 injector has two solenoids on it; one turns the injector on (open) and the other turns it off (close). A few years ago, Ford came out with a new program referred to as inductive heating for the FICM, intended to combat issues with missing and rough-running during cold startup due to sticking spool valves in the injectors. This program works by running “extra” current through the close coil to generate heat and warm up the spool. On paper it was an excellent idea, and I advised a lot of potential injector customers to have their FICM’s reflashed rather than buy a set of injectors.
Based on my testing, it appears that the early models of FICM’s only used the inductive heating when the EOT was less than 48*F or so. The “first” updated heating strategy turned it on any time the EOT was less than 184*F, meaning every time you started the truck if it was shut off for more than 10 minutes! Ford’s newest update to the heating strategy has it coming on below 148*F; better, but that’s still a lot of current draw.
Unfortunately, there have been some very serious consequences.
Although the FICM on the 6.0 is way more “intelligent” than the IDM on a 7.3, its basic job is to convert 12VDC to 48VDC and deliver this to the injectors at the proper time. Under normal operating conditions, the FICM typically draws 6-7 amps at 12V into the FICM power supply, which is well within its design limits. However, with the inductive heating active this current draw increases to 24-32 amps—it pegs the 30 amp meter on my test bench! Although the FICM power supply is capable of sustaining this load for short periods of time (1-2 minutes) it eventually gets very hot.
If this was all that happened, things wouldn’t be too bad, but there are several components on the printed circuit board that were not properly soldered during the manufacturing process, and as the PCB heats up and expands, the solder under these components cracks and they lose their electrical connection. The FICM’s 48 volt power supply is actually four separate or independent units; if one of the four goes down, the other three can supply enough current to run the truck, even with the inductive heating active. If two of the four go out, the truck will start and run normally as long as it is warm out, i.e. as long as the inductive heating does not turn on. If three of the four go out, the truck will probably not start or run unless it is at full operating temperature, and even then it may not start. If the injector voltage is over 35 volts, they run OK, although not as well as when it is 48 volts. If the voltage drops below around 24 volts, the injectors cannot fire. While most scan tools will display the FICM voltage, they do not always show the correct value. For instance, AutoEngenuity can only display voltages between 40 to 56 volts, so if the voltage is 35, it will display 40.
How to check your FICM for proper voltage output.
(Perform this check when the engine is completely cold.)
1. Remove the two bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the cowl and push the reservoir out of the way forward and to your right. You do not need to disconnect any of the hoses.
2. On top of the FICM is a small cover held on by two #20 Torx screws; remove these two screws and pry the cover off.
3. On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.
4 screw FICM
4. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.
5. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.
6. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.
The procedure is the same for FICM’s with 7 screws, except that you will be checking voltage at a different screw, as shown in this picture.
*EDIT*
It's not very clear here, which screw you need to test on the 7 pin units, so I'm adding this in. When you remove the cover, you will see 2 rows of screws. The lower row has 3 screws, the upper row has 4 screws. You want to test at the screw in the row of 4 that is closest to the passenger side fender. Opposite of the 4 pin. I hope this clears this up.
7 screw FICM
If the voltage is above 46 volts in all the tests, your FICM is in excellent condition. If it is between 36 and 45 volts its OK, but not great. If it is between 25 and 35 volts, you have serious FICM problems.
This was borrowed from Swamps via PSN. I did not write these, just merely reposting the info for you guys to follow...
6.0’s, FICM’s and cold-start issues.
If your 6.0 will not start cold, the issue may be either the glow plugs or glow plug controller, or it can be the FICM (Fuel Injection Control Module). If after a long cranking with no start you get a lot of white smoke (raw unburnt fuel) out the exhaust, the problem is in the glow plug system. If you do not get any smoke, the problem is probably in the FICM.
The 6.0 injector has two solenoids on it; one turns the injector on (open) and the other turns it off (close). A few years ago, Ford came out with a new program referred to as inductive heating for the FICM, intended to combat issues with missing and rough-running during cold startup due to sticking spool valves in the injectors. This program works by running “extra” current through the close coil to generate heat and warm up the spool. On paper it was an excellent idea, and I advised a lot of potential injector customers to have their FICM’s reflashed rather than buy a set of injectors.
Based on my testing, it appears that the early models of FICM’s only used the inductive heating when the EOT was less than 48*F or so. The “first” updated heating strategy turned it on any time the EOT was less than 184*F, meaning every time you started the truck if it was shut off for more than 10 minutes! Ford’s newest update to the heating strategy has it coming on below 148*F; better, but that’s still a lot of current draw.
Unfortunately, there have been some very serious consequences.
Although the FICM on the 6.0 is way more “intelligent” than the IDM on a 7.3, its basic job is to convert 12VDC to 48VDC and deliver this to the injectors at the proper time. Under normal operating conditions, the FICM typically draws 6-7 amps at 12V into the FICM power supply, which is well within its design limits. However, with the inductive heating active this current draw increases to 24-32 amps—it pegs the 30 amp meter on my test bench! Although the FICM power supply is capable of sustaining this load for short periods of time (1-2 minutes) it eventually gets very hot.
If this was all that happened, things wouldn’t be too bad, but there are several components on the printed circuit board that were not properly soldered during the manufacturing process, and as the PCB heats up and expands, the solder under these components cracks and they lose their electrical connection. The FICM’s 48 volt power supply is actually four separate or independent units; if one of the four goes down, the other three can supply enough current to run the truck, even with the inductive heating active. If two of the four go out, the truck will start and run normally as long as it is warm out, i.e. as long as the inductive heating does not turn on. If three of the four go out, the truck will probably not start or run unless it is at full operating temperature, and even then it may not start. If the injector voltage is over 35 volts, they run OK, although not as well as when it is 48 volts. If the voltage drops below around 24 volts, the injectors cannot fire. While most scan tools will display the FICM voltage, they do not always show the correct value. For instance, AutoEngenuity can only display voltages between 40 to 56 volts, so if the voltage is 35, it will display 40.
How to check your FICM for proper voltage output.
(Perform this check when the engine is completely cold.)
1. Remove the two bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the cowl and push the reservoir out of the way forward and to your right. You do not need to disconnect any of the hoses.
2. On top of the FICM is a small cover held on by two #20 Torx screws; remove these two screws and pry the cover off.
3. On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.
4 screw FICM
4. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.
5. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.
6. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.
The procedure is the same for FICM’s with 7 screws, except that you will be checking voltage at a different screw, as shown in this picture.
*EDIT*
It's not very clear here, which screw you need to test on the 7 pin units, so I'm adding this in. When you remove the cover, you will see 2 rows of screws. The lower row has 3 screws, the upper row has 4 screws. You want to test at the screw in the row of 4 that is closest to the passenger side fender. Opposite of the 4 pin. I hope this clears this up.
7 screw FICM
If the voltage is above 46 volts in all the tests, your FICM is in excellent condition. If it is between 36 and 45 volts its OK, but not great. If it is between 25 and 35 volts, you have serious FICM problems.
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
2003 ford 6.0 misfire issues need help
I have a 2003 Ford 6.0 that has been a great truck for me personally. Bone stock except for the previous owner had replaced the ficm with the later 4 screw type ficm.
Anyways, recently I've been having this issue where the truck runs great until oil temp hits 180-200 *F.
I've rebuilt the HPOP system using motorcraft parts only,
Including J-Pipe seals, oil pump, stand pipes and braided feed tubes.
Truck has 8 new injectors as well.
The odd thing is, the misfire seems to move around. Two days ago, cylinder 4 was misfiring, then the misfire moved to cylinder 1 and then to cylinder 7.
I verified which cylinder was misfiring by turning off the individual injectors until I found the one which made no difference when turned off.
I did take the ficm apart and went over it , added solder to suspect connections and reinstalled. Still having a misfire intermittently.
I'm going to go over the wire harness , and I still have a few sensors I could change before I'm just at my wits end.
Anyone experience An issue like this? Any advice is appreciated.
Worth noting, all pids are in spec. If I run the truck long enough, just pressing the brake in putting it in gear causes the motor to struggle to stay alive. If it dies when warm, it won't restart until it cools off for a few minutes. Also, when the truck is warm and does, when I try to restart it, ficm sync says no. But if I wait until truck cools some, I get ficm sync back. I suspect a possible ground issue, but it's not constant. Only when the truck is warm I've read other opinions believing that my symptoms could be from a bad cps or ckps. I have not changed either one of these sensors, but I am going to give it a shot if the wiring all checks out.
Anyways, recently I've been having this issue where the truck runs great until oil temp hits 180-200 *F.
I've rebuilt the HPOP system using motorcraft parts only,
Including J-Pipe seals, oil pump, stand pipes and braided feed tubes.
Truck has 8 new injectors as well.
The odd thing is, the misfire seems to move around. Two days ago, cylinder 4 was misfiring, then the misfire moved to cylinder 1 and then to cylinder 7.
I verified which cylinder was misfiring by turning off the individual injectors until I found the one which made no difference when turned off.
I did take the ficm apart and went over it , added solder to suspect connections and reinstalled. Still having a misfire intermittently.
I'm going to go over the wire harness , and I still have a few sensors I could change before I'm just at my wits end.
Anyone experience An issue like this? Any advice is appreciated.
Worth noting, all pids are in spec. If I run the truck long enough, just pressing the brake in putting it in gear causes the motor to struggle to stay alive. If it dies when warm, it won't restart until it cools off for a few minutes. Also, when the truck is warm and does, when I try to restart it, ficm sync says no. But if I wait until truck cools some, I get ficm sync back. I suspect a possible ground issue, but it's not constant. Only when the truck is warm I've read other opinions believing that my symptoms could be from a bad cps or ckps. I have not changed either one of these sensors, but I am going to give it a shot if the wiring all checks out.
Last edited by Redspec; Nov 13, 2024 at 08:21 AM.
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