Last saturday i picked up an 05 f350 4x4. 215000 kms. Only mods im aware of is an egr delete. It apparently has new plugs and plug modual.

I went for a 3 hour drive for a good deal on some 37s. Loaded them up and while i was doing that, one of my kids kicked a powerwire that the previous owner had run for an amp(i assumed it was a dead wire) it arced under the seat. We smelled some burning but figuered it was just from the arc. Fired up the truck and took off. Had supper and it fired up fine after. Then maybe 15 mins later as im heading for the highway the truck shuts off. No engine light or any type of warning. It just shut down almost like it was out of fuel.

Spent the night and in the morning i had a local shop put a scanner on it. It didnt show any codes at all.
Theres fuel at the filter bowl. The fuel pump runs and then shuts off like it should. I got a boost and it cranked like crazy but no fire. No smoke from the pipe or nothin.
I also could not find a single burnt wire or blown fuse.
Does anybody have any idea what the issue is? I know theres alot of electrical components to these motors so how can this happen without setting off the engine light or settinv a code? Even if its the hpop or injectors there should be a code right?

 

No codes hpop problems that I experienced. But if you checked fuse after that and nothing. Three things I would check first is hpop pressure or icp (injector control pressure). With a diagnostic tool or tuner display you should read over 400-500 psi for a start, if low the IPr maybe the culprit. But other things in the oil pressure system may have failed too but start with this. Second the ficm (fuel injection control modual) voltage it should be over 45volts output but they can start as low as 38-40 volts but a no start could be happening lower then that. The same check will diagnostic tool or tuner. Then the modular will need to be changed but before that got to check the battery power and cables and alternator too can cause failed moduals. Third is fuel pressure, even though the fuel pump functions and fuel is going to the bowl on top, the fuel regulator maybe stuck open and dumping fuel back to tank, if fuel pressure is really low then change the regulator. One time that happen to me, when I was going down 6-8 grade hill up in the mountain the truck just died and couldn't start it, and had no power steering and brakes, it was damn scary and had 35" tires too. But turned out the regulator quit just like that no sign. So start with this and hope this helps

 

I pulled the ficm today. The middle connector seemed loose and the bottom half of the connector wasnt properly attatched to the rest of the connector.

I also noticed that the electrolite in the batteries was a little low on a few cells. I pulled the connectors and cleaned the terminals after i filled the cells. The batteries are charging over night and since i have the ficm out anyway i decided to do the solder fix on it. Then ill put it back together and see what happens.

Ive also been told most handheld scanners wont read hard codes on these trucks, that it needs the Ford program. Is that true?

 

Yes I've herd of that, some scanner can't seem to detect certain, but most mechanic shops with a real diagnostic tool (like otc genysis) should be able to read everything, but need to know how to use it properly. But fords programmers are the way to go but expensive to own. But not all Ford techs unfortunately don't know how to use them, so I would be really choosy in where to go.
But what your doing to the batteries definitely will help, and a loose connector definitely can really cause a problem. But I've heard of soldering the ficm isn't really good idea, especially if someone hasn't had done it before, guys have screwed up and had to replace the whole thing. So just be really careful. My ficm's I've alway send them to ficmrepair.com and they alway done a great job, even I take advantage of them upgrade the tunes in the ficm too. So if something happens, they can trust them, and it's not to expensive.

So once you got everything connected and ready to start, you can test the ficm output voltage with a ohm/volt meter here's what guys do.
this is a quote from another forum:

How to check your FICM for proper voltage output.
(Perform this check when the engine is completely cold.)

1. Remove the two bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the cowl and push the reservoir out of the way forward and to your right. You do not need to disconnect any of the hoses.

2. On top of the FICM is a small cover held on by two #20 Torx screws; remove these two screws and pry the cover off.

3. On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.

PROCEDURE for 4 SCREW FICM
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...ictureid=19314

4a. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.

5a. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.

6a. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.

The procedure is the same for FICM’s with 7 screws, except that you will be checking voltage at a different screw, as shown in this picture.

PROCEDURE for 7 SCREW FICM
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/pi...ictureid=19315

4b. Repeat step 4 above (multi meter step) but put the positive lead on the left-most screw in the row of 4 screws.
Do not let the probe short against the case!

5b. Same as 5a above

6b. Same as 6a above

If the voltage is above 46 volts in all the tests, your FICM is in excellent condition.

If it is between 36 and 45 volts its OK, but not great. If it is between 25 and 35 volts, you have serious FICM problems.

So if you do this and the voltage to low like they say here, you may need to buy one or get it fixed. Personally if my ficm runs below 45V I send it in. If it gets lower then that, it can weaken the injector solenoids and now got more parts to replace.

 

I found some loose wiring under the ficm as well as a few cracked solder joints. Fixing them and hopefully it fires up.

 

I found some loose wiring under the ficm as well as a few cracked solder joints. Fixing them and hopefully it fires up.

 

Yeah me to, hope this does the trick for you.

 

I have a feeling it wont. Im not that lucky. With my luck itll be the hpop

 

Well, always got to try some where, and all the things your saying to me here are great possibilities of the issue. But to it would of been interesting seeing your ficm output voltage at that time and see what it was but do what your doin and go from there.

 

Im gonna check the voltage when im done for sure. Should have checked it first i guess.
Next step is checking fuel pressure.