Yeah, that's at least part of the problem!

 

Well I just went out at lunch time and it did the crazy shake and low rpm thing again. Orderd my egr delete kit. Should get it sometime between sept. 30 and oct.6. I didnt mention it before but when its doin its crazy thing it also reads no oil pressure until it stops acting funny. Im really getting frustrated with this truck.

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I was just reading in a different thread where a guy was having starting problems and you said it was because of his oil filter cap. The previous owner of my truck has amsoil crap all under the hood. the original oil filter cap and oil cap have been replaced and the bypass unit is installed. There are lines running from the oil cap and the oil filter cap to the secondary filter. It also requires me to run 2 extra quarts of oil than it calls for. Im runnin 17 quarts. Ive talked to a couple amsoil guys about it and they say its fine but ive never heard anyone elses opinion on the topic.

 

That should be fine. I used to run Amsoil oil filters too without issue. You may have some sort of blockage though... when's the last time any of those filters were replaced? The no oil pressure is alarming and more than likely the root cause of your issue here, now we just need to narrow this down. The injectors can't fire with no oil pressure...

 

I wish I could post a video. Do you know how? Ive got them saved on photobucket and ive never had any problem posting them on the rangerstation but i cant get them to work on here. Im pretty sure the injectors are firing it just sounds really rough and Once the rpms jump up to 750 the oil pressure guage comes up and the check gauges light goes out.

 

I usually use youtube for vids.

They may be firing, but they need good oil pressure to fire properly. The low pressure oil pump feeds oil throughout the motor and to the HPOP (high pressure oil pump) and the HPOP bumps it up to almost 4000 psi as needed to fire the injectors. If oil pressure is low, this could cause issues and lead to a poor running truck.

I think the simplest solution is to "bypass the bypass" for now. Maybe just put a plug in the oil filter cap, or try an OEM Ford cap and filter and see if the problem still persists.

 

The previous owner gave me all the stock stuff to put back on so I will prolly do that then. Update after I try it. Thanks.

 

Ok I finally took it somewhere. I just found out today that they want to replace two injectors. I asked if they were just sticking and he said yes. Then I asked him if I ran some rev x through it would it take care of the problem? He said no its better if we just change the injectors and have it reflashed and that hes never heard of anybody having any luck with the rev x. What do you think about that? I think I would much rather pay 80 or 90 for rev x instead of 1150 for them to do 2 injectors.
Other thing they found out was that when it is doing the low rpm shake thing the belt is actually coming off the powers steering pump pully and it eventually makes its way back on. Have you ever heard of such a thing? I did notice tho when it shakes I can barely turn the steering wheel and it shakes and the brake pedal shakes like the abs is kicking in.
Im thinking rev x to fix injectors then have it reflashed. the belt thingy I have no idea. What do ya think?

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I also never got back on my results from testing the ficm. It tested perfect. I also removed all of the amsoil crap and put it back to stock and put in 15w40 motorcraft.

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I found this on ebay. Think I should pay 50 bux extra and get the pressure upgrade or just get the rev x? Heres the link.
03-07 Ford 6.0 Powerstroke Injector Saver - Rev X and pressure upgrade combo kit | eBay

 

Sticking injectors usually clear up once the truck warms up, and it's not something you'd really notice at idle in park either, usually you feel it when you first start driving it. You can certainly try Rev-X though, it wont hurt anything and I've never heard of anyone NOT having good luck with it.

The fuel pressure spring upgrade is another one of those things, it certainly wont hurt, but I doubt it's your problem.

I think you need to get this truck on a scanner with someone who know's what they're doing behind the scanner. Definitely could be ICP or IPR related. The IPR could be sticking a little bit, not allowing it to build any oil pressure, then releasing and working normal. Tough to say. Try some Rev X and see what happens I guess.

Why the need for the reflash?

As for the belt coming off, that's not normal at all... something isn't right there, but going to be hard to diagnose that one over the net.

FWIW, it is better to change injectors than just run Rev-X... it's just a cover up, not a fix.

 

The truck runs fine once it gets all of the crap at first start up out of the way. the reason for the reflash is I guess there is an update that is suppose to help with the sticking injectors. The mechanic recommended that it be done after he replaced the injectors so that it would have a better chance of it not doing it again.
I think im gonna try the rev x for now and if it starts acting up again I AM going to replace the injectors. Cant justify paying a guy 75 bux an hour saying it will take 3 hours to replace something I can do myself. Both sticky injectors are on the same side.
Well Im gonna go ahead and order the rev x and spring kit. Its in Pennsylvania so hopefully it wont take to long to get to me. Im also gonna pick up the banjo bolts and washers from the dealership and do that. Also while its under the knife gonna tackle the egr delete.
Im gonna also have to see this crazy belt thing for myself. He said he checked everything and it moved freely. If I can video of it or can figure it out I will post it up.

 

The only really important updated flash is to get rid of the inductive heating flash. The sure fire way to know if you have this flash or not is simple. Turn the key forward like you would normally do to get the glow plugs going, do you hear the injectors buzz? If yes, then you have a newer flash and are ok. If you have nothing when you first turn the key, BUT, the injectors buzz after you have run the truck and shut it off... that's the oldest flash and the one known for eating FICM's.

I don't think a flash will do much for you, unless you're running the original flash from 2004 or something.

I wouldn't start there I guess is what I'm saying. Start with the Rev-X and see what happens.

If you plug the truck in does it start and run easier?