No start:(
I pulled the oil rails and just used pliers. Drivers side is done and im just getting to the passengers side. I was wondering tho, since im this far anyway, should i pull the injectors and check the seals on them too? Theyre right there and its probably only another half hour per side to pull them right? Id hate to get it all back together just to have to tear it down again due to bad injector o-rings. All my parts showed up yesterday so im set to go except for the lpop screen which for some reason Sinister only offers with a new oil cooler.
Yeah, it's not a bad idea to check them out. The o ring in particular, you need to check for is the one inside the injector, in the whole on top. They are pretty tough to see but maybe with a magnafying glass, you can see more if there is crack, bits missing, etc. And if you see something wrong with one of them, unfortunately you can't replace that o ring, you need to replace the whole injector just so you know.
Only thing is that is recommended at anytime you pull the injectors out, you need to replace the 2 o rings and the copper washer, that is on the injector. But atleast the copper washer which is crucial. But they are pretty cheap, you be able to get them at Ford or a fuel injector shop.
Only thing is that is recommended at anytime you pull the injectors out, you need to replace the 2 o rings and the copper washer, that is on the injector. But atleast the copper washer which is crucial. But they are pretty cheap, you be able to get them at Ford or a fuel injector shop.
So i got everything back together and cranked it but no fire 
The batteries werent fully charged either and ive heard that it can take a fair ammount of cranking before it builds up enough oil pressure after a procedure like this. I have no movement on the gauge.

The batteries werent fully charged either and ive heard that it can take a fair ammount of cranking before it builds up enough oil pressure after a procedure like this. I have no movement on the gauge.
Yeah exactly. It's normal but If you cranked for over 3-4mins of total cranking, It should of started. But I have a trick in getting it pumping faster but you need a spare IPr harness.
And no movement on that gauge, man it's weird BUT you are getting oil in the filter housing.
I really hope charging it will help.
It's hard to see your issues without pressure gauges (low pressure oil and fuel) and display of the the sensors...
If you still got no start... Your possibilities would (that don't generally activate engine. Codes) be you hpop pump or your fuel regulator or some none code activating wiring problem(rare though).
Sorry dude, hope it works out.
Keep me posted
And no movement on that gauge, man it's weird BUT you are getting oil in the filter housing.
I really hope charging it will help.
It's hard to see your issues without pressure gauges (low pressure oil and fuel) and display of the the sensors...
If you still got no start... Your possibilities would (that don't generally activate engine. Codes) be you hpop pump or your fuel regulator or some none code activating wiring problem(rare though).
Sorry dude, hope it works out.
Keep me posted
Im gonna let it charge over night and try again tomorrow. If i cant get it going im gonna have it checked with the dealers computer...thats gonna be about the only way to pin point the issue.
No, never did, I found a good deal on a Banks Iq but i didnt get it either, xmas is preventing anything like that. The guy i contacted with the Livewire doesnt respond. From what i understand it wont read fuel or oil pressure as obd2 doesnt show it.
No, unfortunately, any diagnostic tool won't read low oil pressure or fuel. But atleast it reads all ficm voltages, icp, injector pulse width, etc.
But ya I understand this time a year, it's hard to budget thing for yourself. But maybe someone your wish list heh!
But at this point, bringing it to the dealer, they'll have the proper testing tools. Thats limitations of being a back yard mechanic. There are few things you can do, but not all. You did your best with what you got and did everything by the book of a back yard 6.0 mechanic.
But just bring it to them, if they find the problem, and it's a pricy labour to the job. You can definitely attemp it again on doing it yourself. This is the best learning curve you ll ever be able to do.
But ya I understand this time a year, it's hard to budget thing for yourself. But maybe someone your wish list heh!

But at this point, bringing it to the dealer, they'll have the proper testing tools. Thats limitations of being a back yard mechanic. There are few things you can do, but not all. You did your best with what you got and did everything by the book of a back yard 6.0 mechanic.
But just bring it to them, if they find the problem, and it's a pricy labour to the job. You can definitely attemp it again on doing it yourself. This is the best learning curve you ll ever be able to do.
Yea, im not worried about doing the work myself but the diagnostic stuff is beyond my capabilities now. Ive changed everything i can except for the hpop and ficm. The ficm seems to show proper voltage. The hpop spins fine but i guess theres no way to tell if its working properly without a computer. Although from what ive read if the hpop was bad the truck should start and run untill it gets warm and then shut down. The truck was accelerating down the road when it died. From the reading ive done, everything points to a large oil leak, either stc, dummy plugs or stand pipes. Ive replaced all of them. The stc really didnt show any signs of failure. The seal on the one dummy plug had a flat spot on it that looked suspicious and the stand pipes all seemed ok. I suppose it could be weak fuel pressure too.
So i went out today and tried cranking the truck over again, well the oil pressure gauge came to life. Then there was a message in the odometer area that says tbc fault.....whats that about?


