Its the right side stc and the plastic piece i mentioned is the thicker black ring up near the top.

So i guess ill order one of those. Im in pretty far now, i think today the intake comes off, the oil cooler and im gonna check that fuel pressure regulator spring. Maybe its broke or on its way out. Lack of fuel pressure would certainly explain my situation. If the spring suddenly let go it would shut down immediatly and never start again. I wish i had installed gauges before this all happened. It would have made diagnosis much easier.
First "mod" after the truck is running will definatly be oil pressure, fuel pressure, voltage and egt gauges. No more guessing games. Ive been lucky so far as we havent had any snow. My luck is NEVER good so im sure its just a matter of time before we get some and i have to suffer through another winter in my Charger.

 

Yep I'm with you on all that. Change that stc. Check it all if you can.
Gauges are definitely a nice investment. Hope you find the problem.
And the fuel regulator, look at the big rubber washer too, they can break apart too.

 

I didnt get the valve covers off but the intake and oil cooler are out as is the hpop. The screen below the cooler was broken. The back screen pieces were only attatched at the back so they would have let all kinds of crap through. The oil cooler seems ok but ive pulled it all apart to clean it and make sure its not plugged. I really dont see anything that bad that imo would be responsible for a no start. So now im getting really concerned. If the standpipes and dummy plugs look ok then wtf is going on?
The hpop has no metal shavings in it that i can see and it spins fine. No bearing play or anything. The stc is the only thing that looks like an issue to me. So obviously i cant get ahead of myself, until i check the standpipes i havent seen everything, but its starting to look more like a fuel pressure issue than an oil pressure problem. Hard to say i guess. What are the chances that its a computer issue? If not the ficm maybe the pcm?

 

As you say, nothing in the oil cooler and that screen wouldn't cause a no start. But the screen can let crap through and plug or damage something. But again it might not be the case.
Well we know that, the hpop system is not pressuring up to what it should. So the fuel regulator in this case cannot be the problem.
A big thing that can help to see if there is a leak is to pressure the system with shop air and hot wire the IPr to close. Lots of guys do this but you got to buy the right fittings or build one for yourself with a parts engine to have the right fitting because Ford love to use odd ball stuff. Because here's the thing, leaks can come from two other places, then stc and stand pipe, there are oil seals on the oil rail and also seals on the injectors. It's rare that they bust but it's not possible, one of our fleet of 6.0L overheated and cooked the o ring in the injector and cause rough idle when cold and no start when hot. Not saying this is your case, but if those oring crack and broke apart is a possible scenario along with the oil rail. But it's really rare case but possible. Ford made theses things very terrible and a pain to diagnose.
But there are chances that you may have a computer issue. Hey did you ever test the IPr voltage? And the other wire of the IPr harness to test ground, which is runned by the pcm, which can be the problem. The ficm is unlikely, in this case. The ficm won't fire the injectors (or won't send a pulse width to the injector) without seeing the hpop system pressure up over 500psi, by viewing the icp voltage.

 

I never checked the ipr voltage, i only put power to it to test that it operates.

Im thinking that if i pull the valve covers i might as well just change the standpipes and dummy plugs. Whether they need it or not. If they arent an issue yet they will be soon anyway. I need the oil cooler screen also and the stc. Once i have that all done ill start putting it back together and maybe ill change the ipr too just to be safe. Once its all back together i shouldnt have to worry about tearing it all back apart unless the headgaskets go or injectors. If it still doesnt start after all that then i guess ill just pay to have it towed to Ford for a diagnostic. Theres gotta be something they can find out that maybe ive missed

 

Yeah sorry dude. It's hard to figure out if you don't have the proper diagnostic tools and testers. There is only so much you can do. Unless you spend time build testing tool and stuff but who has the time, if your not making a living out of it. But generally all the things we ve covered, are generally the common problems. So hope it does the trick.

 

Im gonna order Sinister Diesel's solution package for the 6.0l this week. Only thing it doesnt come with is the ipr, but i will put the motor back together and try it with the one i have.
Are you familiar with the SCT tuners? I was thinking of getting the Livewire for my truck as it will monitor everything i want to watch but it also scans and clears codes. Im wondering if i buy that, if it will give me a better clue as to whats going on or if getting it scanned at Ford is a better way to go?

 

Yeah I run the same tuner too. Personally for a tuner, for a Ford in particular, the SCT is the to go, since they specialize in fords only. Even does trans tunes, some don't. And they work great. And yeah their great to monitor all sensors on the motor (icp, ficm voltages, but I can't remember if it reads IPr duty cycle though) but it won't read the stupid low oil pressure system because of the pathetic oil pressure sender, it's not a real pressure reader sensor. It's kind of a switch, once it reaches a point in pressure, it ll activate the gauge. Same goes with fuel pressure. You probably still need gauge for both. If you want.

Oh remember to buy the egt probe, it's not included with the tuner.

So still it ll really help when a problem arises and where abouts. But it won't beat going to Ford and using there computer to diagnose the problems though.

I think it's worth the investment and you ll definitely get more power and mpg

 

So in anticipation of my parts arriving from Sinister Diesel, i got the drivers side valve cover off, dummy plug out and half of the standpipe. How do you get the other half out?

 

Well, I generally, in this scenario, I have plan on taking off the oil rails and once off, I use needle nose pliers to get to it and pull.
But in your case, I would try getting it out a flexible stick magnet, or use a round tapered punch and put it in the whole and wiggle it lose and see if it can grab it. If your able to losin it but not pull it out, then maybe re use the half piece stand pipe you got, wipe the oil off the o rings and install it back in, don't tighten and hope when you remove it, it pulls the whole thing and then split them apart as you pull out.
Just suggestions