Here we go
#12
08-27-2012, 09:54 PM
#13
08-28-2012, 12:29 AM
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#14
08-28-2012, 10:25 PM
Studs/gaskets
I was reading this thread and noticed that we missed an obvious one... Americandiesel or anyone can simply look at the valve covers and see if they have studs. Just in case anyone out there isn't sure how to tell. If you look at the edges of the vavle covers and you see bolt heads with stamped numbers on them they are stock. If you see threads with an allen hole in the middle, CONGRATULATIONS you have aftermarket studs! Hope this helps 
#15
08-29-2012, 09:09 AM
Just go with a mild street tune for now until you do get studs. A hot tune spinning 39" tires is sure to put a little more stress on it. Honestly I'd probably step down in tire size if it was me, even if you plan on offroading it. What lift is on it now?
500hp should be doable, even with the big tires I'd say. The gears will help you tremendously. I've seen people put down over 400hp on just a tune with 37" tires.
A smaller set of injectors and a quick spooling turbo would do wonders. 175/75's maybe and a stage 2 MTW, or a S364, somewhere in there.
Just keep reading around here, you'll learn it.
500hp should be doable, even with the big tires I'd say. The gears will help you tremendously. I've seen people put down over 400hp on just a tune with 37" tires.
A smaller set of injectors and a quick spooling turbo would do wonders. 175/75's maybe and a stage 2 MTW, or a S364, somewhere in there.
Just keep reading around here, you'll learn it.
#16
08-29-2012, 01:40 PM
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I was reading this thread and noticed that we missed an obvious one... Americandiesel or anyone can simply look at the valve covers and see if they have studs. Just in case anyone out there isn't sure how to tell. If you look at the edges of the vavle covers and you see bolt heads with stamped numbers on them they are stock. If you see threads with an allen hole in the middle, CONGRATULATIONS you have aftermarket studs! Hope this helps
Just go with a mild street tune for now until you do get studs. A hot tune spinning 39" tires is sure to put a little more stress on it. Honestly I'd probably step down in tire size if it was me, even if you plan on offroading it. What lift is on it now?
500hp should be doable, even with the big tires I'd say. The gears will help you tremendously. I've seen people put down over 400hp on just a tune with 37" tires.
A smaller set of injectors and a quick spooling turbo would do wonders. 175/75's maybe and a stage 2 MTW, or a S364, somewhere in there.
Just keep reading around here, you'll learn it.
500hp should be doable, even with the big tires I'd say. The gears will help you tremendously. I've seen people put down over 400hp on just a tune with 37" tires.
A smaller set of injectors and a quick spooling turbo would do wonders. 175/75's maybe and a stage 2 MTW, or a S364, somewhere in there.
Just keep reading around here, you'll learn it.
From what I have read you guys saying I figured 500 is quite reasonable.
Explain to me why I would go smaller? That confused me. 175/75 is the injectors right? So how does the MTW work? Do I send him my turbo and he rebuilds it or is it just a core charge?
Also when getting on the pedal after the motor is at normal op temp the motor seems to sputter like its not getting enough fuel. After a while of keeping it floored it will smooth out but what causes this?
#17
08-29-2012, 02:26 PM
Could be a number of things causing your flutter, hard to say. I would start with trying to read codes. It does not have to have the check engine light on to have codes stored, so start there. Has the EGR valve ever been pulled and cleaned?
Tunes will depend on who you get them through. You will need an SCT tuner of some sort. There are 3 or 4 main options, the SF3 (holds 3 custom tunes and 3 canned tunes) the X3 (holds 3 custom only) livewire (which is a gauge pod, also holds 3 canned, 3 custom), and the iTsx (works through an Ipod touch or Ipod). Basically what you want is custom tuning. Good custom tunes can be had in a few different places but the main 6.0 guys are Eric @ Innovative Diesel, Matt @ Gearhead, Doug @ GoGo. I would order the tuner through them, as they usually include the tunes for free.
I actually have access to a used X-cal3 I could sell you if you were interested, for a good price. It would be cheap enough that you could still buy tunes for your truck and be ahead, if you're interested.
You said previously about having actual suspension travel (I used to frequent the dezertrangers forum quite a bit), so I thought maybe you had some crazy setup, but it sounds like not. Sounds like a lift kit that does nothing more than put the truck in the air then? Do you agree? These trucks are not great offroad to begin with, they're heavy as all heck. I would step down to a 35" or a 37" max tire. A smaller tire will be easier to make a faster truck out of, and will put far less wear on all the joints and transmission and engine as well. It's a lot of work to turn a 37" tire over and puts a lot of stress on parts. Especially considering a hot tune will turn 37" tires into molton rubber on demand.
Start with calling one of those tuners up and telling them what you want. Get a small tune to start if you don't have studs and can't afford putting them in. A good street tune is still nearing 400 rwhp. They're a ton of fun to drive an relatively smoke free too. (I'm a big advocate for clean diesel power, in case you couldn't tell from my sig).
175/75 is the injectors yes. The 6.0 crowd doesn't go by HP readings for injector sizes like you'll commonly see with other makes. We're a little more scientific about it. 135cc is the size of stock injectors. It's the volume the body can hold. 135cc of fuel. We typically go with larger body's (more volume) and a larger nozzle, which we base off of a percentage over stock size. So common upgrades are 155/50 (155cc's vs. the stock 135cc's, and 50% larger nozzles than stock). A 175/75 is 175cc's and 75% larger than stock nozzles etc... 175/75 would get a 6.0 to 500hp easy, matched with the right turbo.
MTW can do it either way, send them yours or just buy one and pay the core, then send yours back if you so choose.
There are a few things you really need to check over with the truck FIRST. Then there are a few things you need to do to the truck, THEN you can add your power mods as you see fit. At least, this is what I would suggest. Don't go just throwing more power at it without doing some preventative stuff first.
Coolant flush
coolant filter
check EOT vs ECT to see if oil cooler needs replacement
replace oil cooler (rebuild) as necessary
gauges
exhaust
(intake is not necessary for this build, especially if you go offroad, keep the stocker, it's awesome).
Think about your lift too... 39" tires on an all block lift with no traction/ladder bars is a recipe for disaster.
Tunes will depend on who you get them through. You will need an SCT tuner of some sort. There are 3 or 4 main options, the SF3 (holds 3 custom tunes and 3 canned tunes) the X3 (holds 3 custom only) livewire (which is a gauge pod, also holds 3 canned, 3 custom), and the iTsx (works through an Ipod touch or Ipod). Basically what you want is custom tuning. Good custom tunes can be had in a few different places but the main 6.0 guys are Eric @ Innovative Diesel, Matt @ Gearhead, Doug @ GoGo. I would order the tuner through them, as they usually include the tunes for free.
I actually have access to a used X-cal3 I could sell you if you were interested, for a good price. It would be cheap enough that you could still buy tunes for your truck and be ahead, if you're interested.
You said previously about having actual suspension travel (I used to frequent the dezertrangers forum quite a bit), so I thought maybe you had some crazy setup, but it sounds like not. Sounds like a lift kit that does nothing more than put the truck in the air then? Do you agree? These trucks are not great offroad to begin with, they're heavy as all heck. I would step down to a 35" or a 37" max tire. A smaller tire will be easier to make a faster truck out of, and will put far less wear on all the joints and transmission and engine as well. It's a lot of work to turn a 37" tire over and puts a lot of stress on parts. Especially considering a hot tune will turn 37" tires into molton rubber on demand.
Start with calling one of those tuners up and telling them what you want. Get a small tune to start if you don't have studs and can't afford putting them in. A good street tune is still nearing 400 rwhp. They're a ton of fun to drive an relatively smoke free too. (I'm a big advocate for clean diesel power, in case you couldn't tell from my sig).
175/75 is the injectors yes. The 6.0 crowd doesn't go by HP readings for injector sizes like you'll commonly see with other makes. We're a little more scientific about it. 135cc is the size of stock injectors. It's the volume the body can hold. 135cc of fuel. We typically go with larger body's (more volume) and a larger nozzle, which we base off of a percentage over stock size. So common upgrades are 155/50 (155cc's vs. the stock 135cc's, and 50% larger nozzles than stock). A 175/75 is 175cc's and 75% larger than stock nozzles etc... 175/75 would get a 6.0 to 500hp easy, matched with the right turbo.
MTW can do it either way, send them yours or just buy one and pay the core, then send yours back if you so choose.
There are a few things you really need to check over with the truck FIRST. Then there are a few things you need to do to the truck, THEN you can add your power mods as you see fit. At least, this is what I would suggest. Don't go just throwing more power at it without doing some preventative stuff first.
Coolant flush
coolant filter
check EOT vs ECT to see if oil cooler needs replacement
replace oil cooler (rebuild) as necessary
gauges
exhaust
(intake is not necessary for this build, especially if you go offroad, keep the stocker, it's awesome).
Think about your lift too... 39" tires on an all block lift with no traction/ladder bars is a recipe for disaster.
#18
08-29-2012, 03:20 PM
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Could be a number of things causing your flutter, hard to say. I would start with trying to read codes. It does not have to have the check engine light on to have codes stored, so start there. Has the EGR valve ever been pulled and cleaned?
Tunes will depend on who you get them through. You will need an SCT tuner of some sort. There are 3 or 4 main options, the SF3 (holds 3 custom tunes and 3 canned tunes) the X3 (holds 3 custom only) livewire (which is a gauge pod, also holds 3 canned, 3 custom), and the iTsx (works through an Ipod touch or Ipod). Basically what you want is custom tuning. Good custom tunes can be had in a few different places but the main 6.0 guys are Eric @ Innovative Diesel, Matt @ Gearhead, Doug @ GoGo. I would order the tuner through them, as they usually include the tunes for free.
I actually have access to a used X-cal3 I could sell you if you were interested, for a good price. It would be cheap enough that you could still buy tunes for your truck and be ahead, if you're interested.
You said previously about having actual suspension travel (I used to frequent the dezertrangers forum quite a bit), so I thought maybe you had some crazy setup, but it sounds like not. Sounds like a lift kit that does nothing more than put the truck in the air then? Do you agree? These trucks are not great offroad to begin with, they're heavy as all heck. I would step down to a 35" or a 37" max tire. A smaller tire will be easier to make a faster truck out of, and will put far less wear on all the joints and transmission and engine as well. It's a lot of work to turn a 37" tire over and puts a lot of stress on parts. Especially considering a hot tune will turn 37" tires into molton rubber on demand.
Start with calling one of those tuners up and telling them what you want. Get a small tune to start if you don't have studs and can't afford putting them in. A good street tune is still nearing 400 rwhp. They're a ton of fun to drive an relatively smoke free too. (I'm a big advocate for clean diesel power, in case you couldn't tell from my sig).
175/75 is the injectors yes. The 6.0 crowd doesn't go by HP readings for injector sizes like you'll commonly see with other makes. We're a little more scientific about it. 135cc is the size of stock injectors. It's the volume the body can hold. 135cc of fuel. We typically go with larger body's (more volume) and a larger nozzle, which we base off of a percentage over stock size. So common upgrades are 155/50 (155cc's vs. the stock 135cc's, and 50% larger nozzles than stock). A 175/75 is 175cc's and 75% larger than stock nozzles etc... 175/75 would get a 6.0 to 500hp easy, matched with the right turbo.
MTW can do it either way, send them yours or just buy one and pay the core, then send yours back if you so choose.
There are a few things you really need to check over with the truck FIRST. Then there are a few things you need to do to the truck, THEN you can add your power mods as you see fit. At least, this is what I would suggest. Don't go just throwing more power at it without doing some preventative stuff first.
Coolant flush
coolant filter
check EOT vs ECT to see if oil cooler needs replacement
replace oil cooler (rebuild) as necessary
gauges
exhaust
(intake is not necessary for this build, especially if you go offroad, keep the stocker, it's awesome).
Think about your lift too... 39" tires on an all block lift with no traction/ladder bars is a recipe for disaster.
Tunes will depend on who you get them through. You will need an SCT tuner of some sort. There are 3 or 4 main options, the SF3 (holds 3 custom tunes and 3 canned tunes) the X3 (holds 3 custom only) livewire (which is a gauge pod, also holds 3 canned, 3 custom), and the iTsx (works through an Ipod touch or Ipod). Basically what you want is custom tuning. Good custom tunes can be had in a few different places but the main 6.0 guys are Eric @ Innovative Diesel, Matt @ Gearhead, Doug @ GoGo. I would order the tuner through them, as they usually include the tunes for free.
I actually have access to a used X-cal3 I could sell you if you were interested, for a good price. It would be cheap enough that you could still buy tunes for your truck and be ahead, if you're interested.
You said previously about having actual suspension travel (I used to frequent the dezertrangers forum quite a bit), so I thought maybe you had some crazy setup, but it sounds like not. Sounds like a lift kit that does nothing more than put the truck in the air then? Do you agree? These trucks are not great offroad to begin with, they're heavy as all heck. I would step down to a 35" or a 37" max tire. A smaller tire will be easier to make a faster truck out of, and will put far less wear on all the joints and transmission and engine as well. It's a lot of work to turn a 37" tire over and puts a lot of stress on parts. Especially considering a hot tune will turn 37" tires into molton rubber on demand.
Start with calling one of those tuners up and telling them what you want. Get a small tune to start if you don't have studs and can't afford putting them in. A good street tune is still nearing 400 rwhp. They're a ton of fun to drive an relatively smoke free too. (I'm a big advocate for clean diesel power, in case you couldn't tell from my sig).
175/75 is the injectors yes. The 6.0 crowd doesn't go by HP readings for injector sizes like you'll commonly see with other makes. We're a little more scientific about it. 135cc is the size of stock injectors. It's the volume the body can hold. 135cc of fuel. We typically go with larger body's (more volume) and a larger nozzle, which we base off of a percentage over stock size. So common upgrades are 155/50 (155cc's vs. the stock 135cc's, and 50% larger nozzles than stock). A 175/75 is 175cc's and 75% larger than stock nozzles etc... 175/75 would get a 6.0 to 500hp easy, matched with the right turbo.
MTW can do it either way, send them yours or just buy one and pay the core, then send yours back if you so choose.
There are a few things you really need to check over with the truck FIRST. Then there are a few things you need to do to the truck, THEN you can add your power mods as you see fit. At least, this is what I would suggest. Don't go just throwing more power at it without doing some preventative stuff first.
Coolant flush
coolant filter
check EOT vs ECT to see if oil cooler needs replacement
replace oil cooler (rebuild) as necessary
gauges
exhaust
(intake is not necessary for this build, especially if you go offroad, keep the stocker, it's awesome).
Think about your lift too... 39" tires on an all block lift with no traction/ladder bars is a recipe for disaster.
I would like to just do it right the first time so I'm not buying twice like I usually do. Alright thanks I looked up the injectors a few days ago and saw the size but I just wanted to make sure. Before I forget when buying the injectors are they sold as one or a set?
Makes sense, I read a few of the threads on powerstroke but it was still a little hazy.
Yea I will do all the preventative maintenance before I start throwing power at it. You lost me at 'EOT vs ECT". I think my exhaust should be good? 4" turbo back and it has an intake on it already so I should be getting plenty of air.
#19
08-29-2012, 09:32 PM
I'd go back to stock intake honestly, it will support quite a bit of power and will filter WAY better than any aftermarket job.
EOT vs ECT engine oil temp vs engine coolant temp. You can read about that here all over the 6.0 section.
Injectors... typically sold in a set of 8. Most injector builders want you to buy 8 new Ford injectors first (they're remans too) and then send them the new one's to have built... it gets really expensive really fast.
EOT vs ECT engine oil temp vs engine coolant temp. You can read about that here all over the 6.0 section.
Injectors... typically sold in a set of 8. Most injector builders want you to buy 8 new Ford injectors first (they're remans too) and then send them the new one's to have built... it gets really expensive really fast.
#20
08-30-2012, 12:11 AM
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I'd go back to stock intake honestly, it will support quite a bit of power and will filter WAY better than any aftermarket job.
EOT vs ECT engine oil temp vs engine coolant temp. You can read about that here all over the 6.0 section.
Injectors... typically sold in a set of 8. Most injector builders want you to buy 8 new Ford injectors first (they're remans too) and then send them the new one's to have built... it gets really expensive really fast.
EOT vs ECT engine oil temp vs engine coolant temp. You can read about that here all over the 6.0 section.
Injectors... typically sold in a set of 8. Most injector builders want you to buy 8 new Ford injectors first (they're remans too) and then send them the new one's to have built... it gets really expensive really fast.
Unfortunately I don't have the stock airbox or filter, the previous owner installed a ramair and didn't include the stock one.
Thanks, I tried doing a little research on what it meant but didn't really understand it. Is it easiest to watch them once I get the gauges or can I just put a IR digital thermometer to it?
I hope so because some that I found ran close to $400 but I wasn't sure if it was a set or individual. What's a common company you guys use or prefer?
