No start hot problem, Whats the best test to run.
#41
Linking vids is fine, don't have to remove turbo, just move degas bottle out of the way, then remove FICm, after that you can see the IPR kinda behind and below the turbo, it has a foil wrap around it that just snaps together so remove that and you are good to go for access. Even if you have to remove the air filter assembly it is alot faster then removing turbo.
The hydraulic fitting you need is a
12mm 1.5pitch thread to pipe thread so you can put an air compressor fitting on it, so if you can get one with 1/4 pipe thread you are good/ 12-1.5---1/4pipe
The hydraulic fitting you need is a
12mm 1.5pitch thread to pipe thread so you can put an air compressor fitting on it, so if you can get one with 1/4 pipe thread you are good/ 12-1.5---1/4pipe
#42
Really really stupid question!
Is it possible that the oil filler cap not being on or really loose could possible cause no start hot issue? I only ask because I was just about to set up the air test and noticed that my buddy forgot to tighten the filler cap, and remembered he told me that the truck was starting hot until he changed the oil.
I would just start it and bring up to heat, but I am almost at the ipr valve(just have the ficm to remove) and i would rather know that its impossible for a loose filler cap to cause this problem or having to go ahead and take off the Ficm and running the air test and finding out that it was the filler cap the whole time.
But I kinda know the answer, because I have to remove the filler cap for the air test any way right? But I want to make sure.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Do I do the test with the oil in or do or draiin oil out.
Is it possible that the oil filler cap not being on or really loose could possible cause no start hot issue? I only ask because I was just about to set up the air test and noticed that my buddy forgot to tighten the filler cap, and remembered he told me that the truck was starting hot until he changed the oil.
I would just start it and bring up to heat, but I am almost at the ipr valve(just have the ficm to remove) and i would rather know that its impossible for a loose filler cap to cause this problem or having to go ahead and take off the Ficm and running the air test and finding out that it was the filler cap the whole time.
But I kinda know the answer, because I have to remove the filler cap for the air test any way right? But I want to make sure.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Linking vids is fine, don't have to remove turbo, just move degas bottle out of the way, then remove FICm, after that you can see the IPR kinda behind and below the turbo, it has a foil wrap around it that just snaps together so remove that and you are good to go for access. Even if you have to remove the air filter assembly it is alot faster then removing turbo.
The hydraulic fitting you need is a
12mm 1.5pitch thread to pipe thread so you can put an air compressor fitting on it, so if you can get one with 1/4 pipe thread you are good/ 12-1.5---1/4pipe
The hydraulic fitting you need is a
12mm 1.5pitch thread to pipe thread so you can put an air compressor fitting on it, so if you can get one with 1/4 pipe thread you are good/ 12-1.5---1/4pipe
Last edited by nucleus; 08-30-2012 at 04:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#45
hi bob I think i'm going give up I got all to taking off the ficm and I could not reach the IPR for the life of me I'm just going to find out which dealership has the best diesel tech and bring it there. So you don't have to worry about looking it up. Thanks for all you time and sharing your knowledge.
#47
Bob
I also forgot to tell you, before all this happened I was in the process of changing the boot that leads into the turbo cause it was leaking but never got a chance to because of the no start problem.
So when I first got the the truck back, remember I was telling you about the changing the oil back to the 15w-40. So the other day I moved my truck up to the front of my driveway and I was letting it warm up a little, then I notice a lot of smoke coming from the engine bay right below the air intake to the turbo it was only at about 130F.
So today I checked it out while I was doing the air test and I noticed that the air intake tube was leaking oil down that tube that goes back into the engine. I also noticed that the was some kind of clamp missing and the actual piece that goes down into the engine was so loose I could just take it out with out any force whats so ever. I have some pics to show you what i'm talking about. Could thss have been causing any of the no start issues and is oil supposed to be in there. Needless to say there was oil everywhere. I think my buddy messed this up.
I also forgot to tell you, before all this happened I was in the process of changing the boot that leads into the turbo cause it was leaking but never got a chance to because of the no start problem.
So when I first got the the truck back, remember I was telling you about the changing the oil back to the 15w-40. So the other day I moved my truck up to the front of my driveway and I was letting it warm up a little, then I notice a lot of smoke coming from the engine bay right below the air intake to the turbo it was only at about 130F.
So today I checked it out while I was doing the air test and I noticed that the air intake tube was leaking oil down that tube that goes back into the engine. I also noticed that the was some kind of clamp missing and the actual piece that goes down into the engine was so loose I could just take it out with out any force whats so ever. I have some pics to show you what i'm talking about. Could thss have been causing any of the no start issues and is oil supposed to be in there. Needless to say there was oil everywhere. I think my buddy messed this up.
#48
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
There was some kind of heat shield in the way and I can't figure out how to t
Last edited by nucleus; 08-30-2012 at 10:29 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
The following users liked this post:
c-tane (09-05-2012)
#49
That is the vent tube, that is the reason all 6.0s have oil in the intake systems, I have left mine off by accident and it will put out a decent amount of smoke and realy be able to smell oil in the cab, that is nothing to worry about, they just pop into the valve cover, no clamp. The IPR should be just visible without moving the heat shield, look toward the back of the turbo pedestal and you can see the top of the HPOP cover, the IPR is right there pointing toward the drivers side.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
IPR valve - Bing Images
This should give you an idea of what you are looking for, also note that you can spin the connector up, just grab the hole casing and spin it by hand.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
IPR valve - Bing Images
This should give you an idea of what you are looking for, also note that you can spin the connector up, just grab the hole casing and spin it by hand.
Last edited by bobfbigman; 08-30-2012 at 11:22 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#50
Yeah I know exactly where it is but I cant seem to maneuver around that big heat shield. I even have cuts on the back of my hand from trying to squeeze past it. I can see the IPR clear as day even the little heat shield on that looks like its coming off. ok, you know what, I'm going to try one more time tomorrow. Cause i feel bad after making you walk through this thing with me and giving up at the finish line.