No start hot problem, Whats the best test to run.
 

I have a "no start hot" problem and I was just wondering what is the best way to determine if it's my stand pipe and dummy plugs or the STC fitting or should I just go ahead and do them both. Just can't spend to much right now.

The truck still drives well, just wont start when its warm. I have 2 brand new interstate batteries in and its a 2007 F350 King Ranch 6.0. Just bought the truck with 241k in immaculate condition, it now has 252,000 on it, first problem so far, not sure what work has been done to it, but is there any chance the previous owner could have gone this long without doing the stc fitting.

The reason I don't know what he previous owner did is cause I bought the truck of a wholesaler and when I did a Carfax and oasis report with ford, the truck had only been at the dealearship once for any repairs.

I am from Canada and I live just north of Toronto if anyone knows where I can find a good and fair diesel mechanic I would also appreciate it thanks.

Thanks in Advance

you can do an air test on HP oil system, there is a fitting that you can get from ford that screws right into the ICP location. You use a air compressor and listen for which side the leak is on. If it were me I would do the Dummy plugs and stand pipes and the stc fitting. If you can have the truck down for a couple days do the dummy plugs and stand pipes and then pull the cover on HP oil pump to see if it has the new STC fitting, if it doesn't then get the fitting or if the dealer lets you return unopened packages buy it and have it at the ready incase it doesn't have the new fitting.

Hi bobfbigman,

Thanks for the advice, that's exactly what i'm going to do, except I bought some of the extra stuff like the Fuel Pressure Regulator "Blue Spring" Upgrade Kit, egr delete with the down pipe, Updated Solid Turbo Feed Line and the Updated Turbo Return Line, along withe stand pipe dummt plugs and the stc fitting.

Since I'm going to have the engine half way apart anyway I'm think this will save me in the long run.

It's nice to see another high mileage 6.0 without the horror stories.

Thanks and God Bless.

sounds like a good plan, taking care of the problems all at once, good luck

I think I read some where on here to do the banjo bolts is that something I should do now, or is not that important?

Banjo bolts are just an easy item to do and as long as you are messing with the fuel lines doing the spring upgrade it's a great time to do them.

Hey bobfbigman

Could you possibly tell me what the part number is, for the Banjo bolts for 2007 6.0 f350.
Thanks in Advance.

•Ford W302472 Ford 6.4 Banjo Bolt
I modified my stock banjo bolts, basically you just need to remove about a 1/16 off the end so you can remove the plunger and spring and then deburr them. I just used a bench grinder to do mine.

Most guys drill out the holes too Bob. Isn't there a snap ring in there to remove so all the internals just fall out after that? I've never actually tried taking them apart.

There are also bolts on ebay that have 3 LARGE holes, much larger than the 6.4 bolts. It's what I used on mine before the vegistroke. I use them in the rear of the heads where the veggie feeds in though.

No snap ring, the end of the bolt is flanged over to hold the internals in, that is why I use a grinder.