I have an 03 and mine had snap rings. (very small suckers! But they are there) Thats how I modified mine prior to the 6.4 bolts.

 

Hi Mdub707,

if there was smoke what would this signify?

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update.
No smoke during hot crank and still would not start after i pulled the icp sensor.

My mechanic said that the truck actually started a couple times hot, after doing the o-rings on the injectors, but he had wanted to change the oil after he was done the road test, so i dropped off some 5w-40 premium blue synthetic i had, but he said right after that it would not start hot any more, again. so i'm changing it back to 15w-40 now and see what happens.

 

One thing alot of people forget to do is to do an air test before you put the valve covers back on, this alone will save hours if the problem wasn't fixed. 95% of the time a Hot-No-Start is a high pressure oil leak.
By the way the 5/40 is better for the injectors

 

bobfbigman,

yeah I guess that's exactly what he did, but like I said in my first post he is a good machanic, but only has a limited amount of experience on this engine, so I guess this was a learning experience for him and me.

i'm so screwed now, cause he spend so much time on my truck he got way back on all his other jobs so I took my truck back. I paid him $800 for what he did so far, which was.

STC fitting
OEM Updated Solid Turbo Feed Line
Ford OEM Updated Turbo Return Line
COMPLETE EGR Cooler & Valve Delete Kit
OEM 6.0L STC Fitting Update Kit
stand pipe and dummy plugs
OEM Fuel Pressure Regulator "Blue Spring" Upgrade Kit
and injector o-rings.

I'm not sure when he can go back in there, if I should bring it some where else, or try and do it myself.

My mechanic said he ended up talking to some 6.0 expert that will do all the seals for 1700 but I just don't have that kind of money right now. He also said the the lower o-rings on the injectors go as well, have you ever heard of this.


would you actually have some pics that show how I could do this job and I'm assuming that to get to the bottom of the oil rail is even worse than doing the the stand pipe and o-rings.

 

The lower orings have nothing to do with High pressure oil, they are the fuel side, they will not cause the problem you are having. As far as the work goes it is only one more step from the work that was done. On the drivers side I can have the oil rail out in about a half hour, the passenger side is alot tougher because of space and having to remove more to the valvecovers. once the oil rail is out it is easy to get the injector out, the mechanic should have had them out anyway if he replaced any oring on them, its impossible to even change the upper ring without pulling the injector///and if the injector was pulled then the lower Orings should have been replaced at that time,not supposed to reuse them.
Get this tool// OTC-6763//// it is the adapter so you can hook up air to test it yourself, it screws in right where the ICP sensor is.

 

do i have to remove the injectors to do the above mention work?

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bobfbigman I don't know how to thank you for all the help. i really appreciate it.

what other seals could possibly be cause high pressure oil leak cause I want to do then all now so I dont have to worry about it again

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is there any special technique in doing the air test

 

Injector do not need to come out to repair the Orings on the oil rail itself, the oil rail sits on to of injectors and can be removed with about 8, 8mm bolts. Initial air test is generally done just as the motor is, pull the cap off the oil fill tube and remove the air cleaner assembly so you can pull the vent tube out of drivers side valve cover so you can hear the air. The only tecnical part is you have to be able to activate the IPR valve in order to shut it completely, you can get a new pigtail from dealer or ebay so you can hook a positive and negitive wire to it to close the IPr.

 

OK cool

 

Yes, like he said. If it's starting cold and not hot, definitely sounds like high pressure oil. An air test like Bob suggested will be your best bet and easiest to do.

I wish there was a picture tutorial on how to air test the HPOP system on these... Might have to do something when my cab comes off.

 

Ok I got the pigtail for the IPR, but dealerships up here don't carry the OTC-6763 so I went to a auto supply place and the are trying to find one for me.

A couple questions :
1. Can I not just go to an hydraulics place and find the same fitting as the otc 6763 and if so what size is the threading for the 2007 6.0l

2. how do I access the IPR and do I have to remove a lot of stuff to get to it.

I actually found a video on youtube that shows the procedure but it looks like he had to take off the turbo, to access the IPR .

I not sure if I allowed to link if I'm not I apologize.