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1st Gen ABS Operation And Diagnostic

 
 
 
 
  #11  
Old 10-17-2009, 12:07 PM
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Mr RSWORDS,

I found your ABS solution reasonable... How do I disconnect the ABS without causing another problem? I can live without abs but I would prefer not to screw something up by sheer ignorance

Please Advise,

Maureen Casey
 
  #12  
Old 05-28-2010, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by tower_ofpower View Post
indeed thanks; only prob is they dont specify where the diagnostic ground is located at. i'm sure if i look behind the glove box it wont be hard to find... but this helps alot i choose to ignore the lights; but i'd rather not have to... got anything for the grid heater? they cycle while engine is running but dont pre-heat when the key is turned on. i assume the IAT sensor is ok since if you leave ti unplugged the wait to start light has a tendancy to flash
Does anybody know where the diagnostic ground is located at or what part you have to ground to get the code? I replaced my master cylinder the other day and unhooked the battery. The code cleared but during the self test on start up it lit the light back up. The manual Bobby uploaded is awesome but it doesn't specify what connection to ground.
 
  #13  
Old 05-29-2010, 09:58 AM
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Jason. Disconnect the box behind the glove box. The ABS on these trucks is pretty much useless. Its only for the rear anyway and my truck stops better with it disconnected.
 
  #14  
Old 05-29-2010, 09:37 PM
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Cool Ill try that. Im assuming you have to remove the glove box?
 
  #15  
Old 05-29-2010, 09:59 PM
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Its real easy man...
 
  #16  
Old 05-29-2010, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonfriedlin View Post
Does anybody know where the diagnostic ground is located at or what part you have to ground to get the code?
There should be an unused plug in behind the left side of the glovebox.
 
  #17  
Old 11-14-2010, 07:08 PM
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Nice
 
  #18  
Old 11-15-2010, 03:01 PM
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Had mine start complaining a couple of weeks ago after we got back from pulling our trailer.
About a week earlier the CC quit.
Also noticed the brake pedal was lower than usual on the trip back, but the brakes worked as well as the trailer brakes.

Time to attack the ABS....
Grounding the lead by the connector produced NO response from the ABS unit - the ABS light just stayed lit mocking me saying "I'm not going to tell you anything" ---

Checked out the usual suspects :
Stop light switch - OK
Park brake switch - OK
Vacuum - OK
Wires to the pumpkin - OK

Starting to get very frustrated at this point. Took truck out and got up to 40 mph and hit the brakes with BOTH feet - - AFTER making sure there was no one behind me.
Truck stopped like a champ - no rear wheel hop, no pulsing on the brake pedal ( not sure I'd have felt it anyway ), no skidding, no locking rear tires....

BUT I did notice the lights were out ?!?!?!?
On the drive home I had to stop a couple of times and the lights came back on. At one stop I pumped the brakes 3 or 4 times and the lights went out. Next stop they were back on again.
Obviously low pressure in the lines. Master cylinder is full and shows no signs of leaks nor do the brake cylinders or the ABS parts.
Next step is to bleed the system starting at the passenger rear and working to the driver front. Hope that corrects any pressure problems.
AND I hope that fixes the CC - has anyone noticed how strong the throttle springs are on the Cummins ?
 

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