1st Gen ABS Operation And Diagnostic
#11
Mr RSWORDS,
I found your ABS solution reasonable... How do I disconnect the ABS without causing another problem? I can live without abs but I would prefer not to screw something up by sheer ignorance
Please Advise,
Maureen Casey
I found your ABS solution reasonable... How do I disconnect the ABS without causing another problem? I can live without abs but I would prefer not to screw something up by sheer ignorance
Please Advise,
Maureen Casey
#12
indeed thanks; only prob is they dont specify where the diagnostic ground is located at. i'm sure if i look behind the glove box it wont be hard to find... but this helps alot i choose to ignore the lights; but i'd rather not have to... got anything for the grid heater? they cycle while engine is running but dont pre-heat when the key is turned on. i assume the IAT sensor is ok since if you leave ti unplugged the wait to start light has a tendancy to flash
#18
Had mine start complaining a couple of weeks ago after we got back from pulling our trailer.
About a week earlier the CC quit.
Also noticed the brake pedal was lower than usual on the trip back, but the brakes worked as well as the trailer brakes.
Time to attack the ABS....
Grounding the lead by the connector produced NO response from the ABS unit - the ABS light just stayed lit mocking me saying "I'm not going to tell you anything" ---
Checked out the usual suspects :
Stop light switch - OK
Park brake switch - OK
Vacuum - OK
Wires to the pumpkin - OK
Starting to get very frustrated at this point. Took truck out and got up to 40 mph and hit the brakes with BOTH feet - - AFTER making sure there was no one behind me.
Truck stopped like a champ - no rear wheel hop, no pulsing on the brake pedal ( not sure I'd have felt it anyway ), no skidding, no locking rear tires....
BUT I did notice the lights were out ?!?!?!?
On the drive home I had to stop a couple of times and the lights came back on. At one stop I pumped the brakes 3 or 4 times and the lights went out. Next stop they were back on again.
Obviously low pressure in the lines. Master cylinder is full and shows no signs of leaks nor do the brake cylinders or the ABS parts.
Next step is to bleed the system starting at the passenger rear and working to the driver front. Hope that corrects any pressure problems.
AND I hope that fixes the CC - has anyone noticed how strong the throttle springs are on the Cummins ?
About a week earlier the CC quit.
Also noticed the brake pedal was lower than usual on the trip back, but the brakes worked as well as the trailer brakes.
Time to attack the ABS....
Grounding the lead by the connector produced NO response from the ABS unit - the ABS light just stayed lit mocking me saying "I'm not going to tell you anything" ---
Checked out the usual suspects :
Stop light switch - OK
Park brake switch - OK
Vacuum - OK
Wires to the pumpkin - OK
Starting to get very frustrated at this point. Took truck out and got up to 40 mph and hit the brakes with BOTH feet - - AFTER making sure there was no one behind me.
Truck stopped like a champ - no rear wheel hop, no pulsing on the brake pedal ( not sure I'd have felt it anyway ), no skidding, no locking rear tires....
BUT I did notice the lights were out ?!?!?!?
On the drive home I had to stop a couple of times and the lights came back on. At one stop I pumped the brakes 3 or 4 times and the lights went out. Next stop they were back on again.
Obviously low pressure in the lines. Master cylinder is full and shows no signs of leaks nor do the brake cylinders or the ABS parts.
Next step is to bleed the system starting at the passenger rear and working to the driver front. Hope that corrects any pressure problems.
AND I hope that fixes the CC - has anyone noticed how strong the throttle springs are on the Cummins ?