86 Cherokee OM617/700R4/NP231
#71
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Ditto. Here in the great NorthWET where it rains an average of 190-200 days a year, I'd be afraid of that filter getting soaked! Are you planning on putting any kind of shroud or splash guard around/in front of it?
Nice looking fan shroud BTW...
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Is yours one of the Wagoneer models with 4 smaller headlights instead of 2 larger ones? Or is it maybe a BriarWood model? Both of those were "upscale" trim levels that came it the "wood-look" exterior trim. They are a lot more rare than the Laredo or the plane-jane base models...
Nice looking fan shroud BTW...
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Is yours one of the Wagoneer models with 4 smaller headlights instead of 2 larger ones? Or is it maybe a BriarWood model? Both of those were "upscale" trim levels that came it the "wood-look" exterior trim. They are a lot more rare than the Laredo or the plane-jane base models...
Last edited by FTE; 05-14-2010 at 10:40 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#72
Once I get it all sorted out I plan on putting a "splash" shield in front of the filter...Plus the set-up is designed so the air has to go up before heading to the turbo, hopefully preventing any water from getting down there. I might also box the filter completely from the engine compartment, but hat will be later also, due to the fact that I am spending WAY too much time on this stuff and I want to get it on the road as soon as I can, knowing full well there will be "bugs" to be worked out!
You up for it?
#73
I figured you probably already had something in mind, since the rest of the build has been so well thought out and executed... Sounds like you and I are on about the same schedule - though you appear to be a bit farther along than me. How about a little motivational wager? Something like whoever finishes first drives his rig to the other guy's location and then the "loser" buys the "winner" dinner? A nice dinner (not Space Needle nice, but not Denny's either).
You up for it?
You up for it?
#74
I'm in!! I still have nightmares about something seriously going wrong and I have to start over! So we will see. I don't know how many times I have "re-engineered" something while I am driving to Boise. (I get some of my best work done while I am cruising down the road) I am getting dangerously close to seeing it (hopefully) move under its own power! It's those pesky loose ends that are keeping me down!
Ahh, that's OK. Of course the winner will no doubt drive the looser to the restaurant to collect on the bet, and it would be worth loosing just to see it in action and go for a ride in it! Besides, ready to move under its own power and ready for a 200 mile road trip can be two entirely different things...
I do most of my re-engneering when I'm falling asleep at night. Fortunately I haven't had to do TOO much of that with this project so far, because since daylight savings time started I've been getting up at 5:00 AM to go in to work earlier so I can get off early enough to get a little work in a lot of evenings. When I'm not doing Scouts or baseball or whatever else my kids have on their agenda. Getting up that early means I don't spend much time staring at the ceiling waiting to fall asleep most nights...
#75
May I ask if you used rubber mount between the oil cooler and the mount?
If not you should do so- vibrations will break the cooler off. I wouldn't use hose clamps for the oil cooler hose, get them crimped, your engine oil will be out under load before you recognize the "oh,**** lamp"
It's a painful (expensive) experience if that happens.
If not you should do so- vibrations will break the cooler off. I wouldn't use hose clamps for the oil cooler hose, get them crimped, your engine oil will be out under load before you recognize the "oh,**** lamp"
It's a painful (expensive) experience if that happens.
#76
May I ask if you used rubber mount between the oil cooler and the mount?
If not you should do so- vibrations will break the cooler off. I wouldn't use hose clamps for the oil cooler hose, get them crimped, your engine oil will be out under load before you recognize the "oh,**** lamp"
It's a painful (expensive) experience if that happens.
If not you should do so- vibrations will break the cooler off. I wouldn't use hose clamps for the oil cooler hose, get them crimped, your engine oil will be out under load before you recognize the "oh,**** lamp"
It's a painful (expensive) experience if that happens.
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Hmmn I may have stuck my foot in it! You now are sounding like you're almost there - whereas I took your July forcast to mean you still had a long ways to go!
Ahh, that's OK. Of course the winner will no doubt drive the looser to the restaurant to collect on the bet, and it would be worth loosing just to see it in action and go for a ride in it! Besides, ready to move under its own power and ready for a 200 mile road trip can be two entirely different things...
I do most of my re-engneering when I'm falling asleep at night. Fortunately I haven't had to do TOO much of that with this project so far, because since daylight savings time started I've been getting up at 5:00 AM to go in to work earlier so I can get off early enough to get a little work in a lot of evenings. When I'm not doing Scouts or baseball or whatever else my kids have on their agenda. Getting up that early means I don't spend much time staring at the ceiling waiting to fall asleep most nights...
Ahh, that's OK. Of course the winner will no doubt drive the looser to the restaurant to collect on the bet, and it would be worth loosing just to see it in action and go for a ride in it! Besides, ready to move under its own power and ready for a 200 mile road trip can be two entirely different things...
I do most of my re-engneering when I'm falling asleep at night. Fortunately I haven't had to do TOO much of that with this project so far, because since daylight savings time started I've been getting up at 5:00 AM to go in to work earlier so I can get off early enough to get a little work in a lot of evenings. When I'm not doing Scouts or baseball or whatever else my kids have on their agenda. Getting up that early means I don't spend much time staring at the ceiling waiting to fall asleep most nights...
Last edited by FTE; 05-14-2010 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#77
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I had a question for both Benzer1 and FTE.
How are you guys planning on dealing with the vacuum controlled fuel cutoff valve to shut the engine down? Replace it with an electric solenoid? Install a valve to control vacuum to the original vacuum pod? Something else?
Last edited by CheaperJeeper; 05-15-2010 at 12:37 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#78
I'd like to see more of a close up picture of those if/when you're working on it and have your camera handy...
Does your 86 have the rod-style linkage with the pivot bracket welded to the bottom side of the tranny hump?
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I had a question for both Benzer1 and FTE.
How are you guys planning on dealing with the vacuum controlled fuel cutoff valve to shut the engine down? Replace it with an electric solenoid? Install a valve to control vacuum to the original vacuum pod? Something else?
Does your 86 have the rod-style linkage with the pivot bracket welded to the bottom side of the tranny hump?
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I had a question for both Benzer1 and FTE.
How are you guys planning on dealing with the vacuum controlled fuel cutoff valve to shut the engine down? Replace it with an electric solenoid? Install a valve to control vacuum to the original vacuum pod? Something else?
#79
I stripped the HVAC vacuum solenoids out of the donor car (300SD). I wired one of them up to the ignition switch (used to be the distributor wire) As long as the key is on, no vacuum to the IP. Shut the key off, solenoid off, it shuts down. I had to put the vacuum line on a different port on the solenoid to make it work, but it works good.
Just in case you're wondering why I've been following these Mercedes/Jeep swaps so closely and asking so many questions, I have a spare motor and tranny from a 300D that I may be swapping into a Cherokee one day. Things like this will be good info to have when that day comes - I now know I can get the shutdown parts from a 300SD and make it work without trying to come up with a way to re-invent the wheel
#80
OK, I see. The 300SD (W126) series must be different than the 300D or 300CD (W123) then. From what you're saying the vacuum to the IP in the SD has an electric solenoid. The D and CD don't. They actually have vacuum lines running to a valve built into the key switch and turning the key opens/closes the vacuum port directly.
Just in case you're wondering why I've been following these Mercedes/Jeep swaps so closely and asking so many questions, I have a spare motor and tranny from a 300D that I may be swapping into a Cherokee one day. Things like this will be good info to have when that day comes - I now know I can get the shutdown parts from a 300SD and make it work without trying to come up with a way to re-invent the wheel
Just in case you're wondering why I've been following these Mercedes/Jeep swaps so closely and asking so many questions, I have a spare motor and tranny from a 300D that I may be swapping into a Cherokee one day. Things like this will be good info to have when that day comes - I now know I can get the shutdown parts from a 300SD and make it work without trying to come up with a way to re-invent the wheel
John