Yes it had the pivot setup on the tranny tunnel but I cut it out for clearance (90deg bell) and didn't need it anyway. I am running a single rod from the stock shifter to a modified lever on the trans with a small heim joint for adjustibilty.The t/c lincage looks to be about the same. Ditto on what John said for the vac cutoff

 

Hey Cheeper, here is a pic of the clamp(not a very good one), plus a few of the trans and t/c shift linkage.

 

AHHH, I see. So the IP has the same vac cutoff, you're just controlling it differently...

VERY clever guys. And that shifter setup looks great FTE. I like the threaded heim on the end so you can adust it - good thinking.

 

Finished up the lift in the rear, I used a stock 97 spring pack with 1 extra leaf added. That should help get the spring rate closer to the front coils. 3in more than stock, I still need to get 31's. Now that the ride height is set I can cut the drive line to the right length.

 

I shortend up the drive line today, now for the exhaust! The list is getting shorter!!

 

Doing that yourself? You've either got more courage or better equipment than I have. After seeing what happened to my buddy I'd be afraid to try shortening a driveline myself for any rig I'll be driving at freeway speeds.

He had a Dakota with a v-e-r-y slightly bent driveline - which threw it a little out of balance. It was so slight it was hardly even noticeable when you drove it - just a little vibration. So he didn't think much of it or do anything about it and kept driving it. Next thing he knew the pinion nut loosened up and it sucked the pinion into the ring gear. Destroyed the entire rear end. So he swapped rear ends and kept driving it like that and soon after that it spit a cap on the front u-joint and broke the t-case.

Driveline modifications are something I'm leery of attempting myself. I leave that to the guys at the driveline shop who are setup to get them perfectly straight and 100% balanced. If you're set up for it and feel qualified and confident enough to do your own, that's pretty cool...

 

Yep, did it myself. Not the first time, that brush mower I helped build "Rolling Vengence" had multiple drivelines. The ones driving the mover deck turned 3000rpm constantly, plus all the shock from the mowing, never failed, we built all of them in house. I also have done other vehicles as well, no vibrations. The key is to make sure they are true before you weld.

 

I was told runout is more important than balance, like FTE said, it has to be true. I got lucky and found a shorter driveshaft, it just needed conversion u-joints to work with my T-case and diff. I never had a vibration from the torque converter I welded for the 904, of course, it broke the flexplate after six weeks, so that's probably not a good example!!!!

John

 

Hi John! How is your rig working out? Have you been driving it alot? Got the tac sorted out yet? Curious minds want to know! Hopefully I will be finding out this for myself soon!

 

I have not messed with the tach yet. I have been driving the Jeep every day since I got it back on the road. I averaged 21 MPG on the first tank, and it was not fully topped off. Still need to hook up the transfer case shifter, but it's running good. Sounds like you are close to getting yours on the road?

John