Sorry for no real progress! Just finished my bike up for the most part and will be starting on the Fummins soon.

I've decided to convert the truck to 10 lug and run 22.5's with low-pro 36's.

Scored a deal on the new powdercoated wheels and brand new tires through a buddy ($1500) and bought the 10 lug adapters from an old racer/machinist from Southern California for around $800. Scored another deal on the steel dually adapters for the rear end for $200, then exchanging my SRW front hubs for a set of dually's for the cost of the new bearings and grease.

A new flatbed and possibly boxing the entire frame is in the works. Also picked up an ARB bumper for the front for $300 from a friend.

Wheelin' and dealin' baby!

 

Just read the entire thread! Very enjoyable. Either you don't have a wife, or I'm in the wrong career! It's hard not to feel a lil jealous.

Keep it up!!! I look forward to seeing the new rearend/bed.

 

I have a question... how are you gonna get the push rods and head bolts outta the back of the motor since the dodge has pre drilled holes in the cowling... ''if'' u ever have to remove the head??? just curious..

 

White, single, and 21. If I didn't lose my job last spring the truck would have been done a long time ago.

Are you kidding? The engine is very far forward of the fire wall exactly for this reason. You can change the rear freeze plug if you wanted to.

 

I changed valvesprings and head bolts without too much trouble on mine

Number 5 cylinder is cake to get to on mine, number 6 we used a hydraulic device to lift up the firewall slightly and got the rocker assembly off and valve spring puller on.

 

well i was just curious i couldn't really tell in the pics... i figured you had addressed the problem just wanted to know what u did..

 

Installed a 2000 manual PCM today and took it out of limp mode, revs all the way out now!

 

Nice!!

 

Finally received the wheel adapters this week.



Mounted and back on its own wheels



Plate I ordered for the truck