OM617 into TJ Wrangler Build Thread
#12
#13
the starter was catching the flywheel before but it sounded horrible. It sounded like the starter and flywheel was grinding gears. I spoke to him on the phone and he advised to check the Dowell pins. I did forget to put them in. I took everything apartand added them. And put the starter back on and now it's not catching the flywheel. I'll pull everything apart again today and check everything.
#14
Is there anyway you can get me a measurement from transmission mounting surface to the end of the crank pulley I'm not worried about any other accessories or fan
thanks. Jason
thanks. Jason
Here we go, got some more work done today and took some good pictures. I received my dowel pins and they fit nicely, they line the bell housing up perfectly. The hardware included with the kit was the perfect size, except one thread on the bell housing adapter was much finer than the thread on the bolt so I had to rethread it with a tap and die set - easy.
Here is the engine facing the clutch, and again from the side: Note the hardware for reference and the dowel pin at the 4 o clock and 9 o clock positions. Don't lose them or it will set you back, more than likely they will be stuck in the back of the jeep engine so make sure you remove them! Trust me.
Positioning the drivetrain: It's much easier to find the sweet spot when the engine and trans are mated together and you are able to move the hoist, as well as the jeep. Here she is ready to go:
Here is an up-close shot of the bell housing adapter and the hardware: And the dreaded dowel pin I fought with..
It's in!! I have a 3" suspension lift and I'm finding it necessary to notch my oil pan. Mercedesdiesel4x4 does this service for you, you send yours in and they send you one back - its a core replacement. I need this. This will be addressed another day.
Another view from the back underneath by the trans and skid plate: Note how my engine is resting on it's oil pan. No good.
So now I ask to you, has anyone done this on a TJ? I would like to now address my mount locations. It seems the engine sits real low, do I need to put a spacer in at my trans mount to sit the engine and drivetrain up higher?? (I'm talking hockey pucks).
What do you think? If I bring the engine up any higher with the hoist, the front sits up higher than the rear of the engine, is that ideal? Should it be level? The man Nathan at the place that makes the swap hardware said they did a TJ with a 5 or 6" lift and the engine valve cover had 3/8" angle with the front higher than the rear. Using a square 90º piece of metal, they centered it using the firewall. I've yet to get to this final positioning but it just seems like it sits so low. What do you think? I know I definitely need to notch my pan, thats for certain. Thats next, and also address my bent turbo oil return tube but I already have the parts already so I'll get to that when I do my pan.
Thanks for looking!
Here is the engine facing the clutch, and again from the side: Note the hardware for reference and the dowel pin at the 4 o clock and 9 o clock positions. Don't lose them or it will set you back, more than likely they will be stuck in the back of the jeep engine so make sure you remove them! Trust me.
Positioning the drivetrain: It's much easier to find the sweet spot when the engine and trans are mated together and you are able to move the hoist, as well as the jeep. Here she is ready to go:
Here is an up-close shot of the bell housing adapter and the hardware: And the dreaded dowel pin I fought with..
It's in!! I have a 3" suspension lift and I'm finding it necessary to notch my oil pan. Mercedesdiesel4x4 does this service for you, you send yours in and they send you one back - its a core replacement. I need this. This will be addressed another day.
Another view from the back underneath by the trans and skid plate: Note how my engine is resting on it's oil pan. No good.
So now I ask to you, has anyone done this on a TJ? I would like to now address my mount locations. It seems the engine sits real low, do I need to put a spacer in at my trans mount to sit the engine and drivetrain up higher?? (I'm talking hockey pucks).
What do you think? If I bring the engine up any higher with the hoist, the front sits up higher than the rear of the engine, is that ideal? Should it be level? The man Nathan at the place that makes the swap hardware said they did a TJ with a 5 or 6" lift and the engine valve cover had 3/8" angle with the front higher than the rear. Using a square 90º piece of metal, they centered it using the firewall. I've yet to get to this final positioning but it just seems like it sits so low. What do you think? I know I definitely need to notch my pan, thats for certain. Thats next, and also address my bent turbo oil return tube but I already have the parts already so I'll get to that when I do my pan.
Thanks for looking!
#15
The pan from Mercedesdiesel4x4 is definetely worth the money, I've seen people notch the pans, but I'm not comfortable losing the oil capacity, it may not make a big difference, but it does look more professional in my opinion. I will be at the point of figuring out my motor mounts in a month or two, I had bought a kit to install a 4.3 Chevy V6, but when I ran across the OM617, plans changed! LOL! Hoping to be able to use part of that kit.
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