Find out where it's from the factory and then shoot for 12 degrees. 12 seems to be the accepted standard. Each shim is worth X amount of timing, I'll have to look in my book to tell you specifically. Most engine have 3-4 shims.

 

Whats the easiest way to check timing? I'm thinking you need some fancy tools to check it on a diesel...

Back to my air in the fuel issue, I noticed today after letting it idle for probably 15-20 mins that it would miss when I went to drive it as if it had air in it. So I can't think of what the problem would be if it gets air in it while running

 

I am not 100% on the timing, but I think on the stock Kubota it is all in the shims at the pump. Kubota man can confirm this for sure.
Lots of things and places to look for fuel system air leaks. Look for air leak in your fuel supply or return lines. Do you have in tank fuel pump? If so that might be your problem, others have had aerated fuel coming into the tank from the fuel return line, this more on the MB than the Kubota. Tank vent in good condition?
is your fuel routing correct? Pushing or pulling fuel through your filter? What sort of primary filter are you using? is it new or plugged? Are your banjo fittings in good shape?
lots of places to look for problems, most of my air problems have ended up being in the return side.

 

I believe I read to ck timing you remove the #1 delivery valve and rotate engine until fuel pools and starts to spill, then check timing marks on flywheel, that is deg of timing. Remove or add shims to change. As for the air in the fuel, I had a similar issue with the draw straw not being clamped tight enough and sucking air.

 

I do have an in tank fuel pump, but I'm not using it, I bypassed it. Fuel line routing is correct, it is routed the same way it was for carrier as my engine came with the carrier filter and filter head with all the hoses still hooked up. I am pushing fuel from the lift pump, to the inlet on the filter head, from the outlet on the filter head back to the IP. However I had no issues at all with the first engine taking on air... The only things different from the first to second engine is the IP, injectors and return line manifold. I already swapped lift pumps assuming it was either the pump or check valve and that didn't make a difference. So I'm a little suspect towards the IP?

I don't know where to check my timing marks on the flywheel from since I'm assuming there was a timing hole in the original bellhousing that I don't have now because of my adapter plate?

 

Yes that's where they were. Sorry you didn't transfer timing marks elsewhere when you eliminated the stock ones.

 

I read each shim is worth 1.5 degrees.. So if stock it's set like 18-22 degrees I remove 3-4 shims to get 12 correct?

 

It depends on the thickness of the shim, they make different thicknesses. Your engine should be around 6 degree but you either need to find the info on-line or call a carrier dealer with the serial number to get the factory setting.

On your air leak, the only way the IP can allow air into the system are through the o-rings under the nozzle holders. See pic. They screw out after you take the injection line off, BUT if you take them apart pay close attention there will be a spring, fuel restrictor, copper washer, and fuel valve.

My truck had the same problem you're having but only after it set for couple days.

 

hey Kubotaman, can you use compressed air or a vacuum pump to test for air leaks where you are talking about??

 

so when you say 6 degrees that means the nozzle opens up 6 degrees before TDC?

Can't the pump leak fuel into the crankcase? I noticed that when I was driving around town today, that around 1500 rpm is about the worst spot. once I go to accelerate again it sputters and nearly quits on me.

so on my old pump, when I was taking the injector lines off they were really tight and ended up spinning the delivery valve below it in the clamp. Is this an issue? are these supposed to be clocked at a certain degree to give the correct cc of fuel or are they just torqued down?