Thought I'd do my best on a "how to" for the M pump install. The crank must be set to 24* BDC on the compression stroke of #1 cylinder. You can verify compression on #1 by looking in the oil fill cap, the first 2 lobes of the cam should be pointing generally upward. I set the crank at 20* per the pump builders instructions.

 

Diconect the fuel lines, oil line (12mm) and injector hard lines (17mm). I marked all the lines with masking tape and numbered. I was concerned I wouldn't have enough room to move the pump back to disengage it so I removed the shutoff vacuum pod (10mm). I don't think I really needed to remove it but it gave me visual access to the next part. The MW pump has a small bracket the ties into the back of the IP from the block and serves as a conection point for the return spring. If you look down from above you can just see the head of this bolt recessed under the IP back cover. If you're lucky with a long straight 13mm wrench you may have just enough movement to break it loose. A ratchet or ratcheting wreck will not fit and there is no access from below. This bolt is a nightmare. I managed to break it free and spin it off with my thumbnail on the points of the bold head, thank God the threads were very clean. Next remove the return spring and crawl undernearh and remove the two 13mm bolts holding the bracket to the black. While underneath remove the one of the three 13mm nuts holding the IP to the block, return topside and remove the two remaining. At this point the pump should slide back and then up and out. There is a splined collar that conects the cam drive gear to the IP gear.

 

The IP is full of black oil so be prepared. Should look like this once the pump is out.

 

Once out I noticed the IP drive gear reference tooth was lined up with the timing hash mark on the pump body. I think this is good because this is exactly how the new pump is timed before it goes in.

 

With the new M pump timed I installed the the splined sleeve on the pump gear and installed the pump on the engine. It really just dropped in without issue. With it mocked install I can see a couple problems. The hard lines are up higher and long by about an inch, the hard plastic lines will need shortened and replaced. The biggest issue I can see so far is the linkage, the M pump fuel lever is up higher and requires about an inch more traval for full throttle. This means a redesign of my linkage system, big problem because the linkage also controlls my transmission. may plan is to move the folcrum out on the upper pivot and in on the pump arm if needed.

 

I'll post some pictures comparing the two pumps side by side when I get back in the shop until then Merry Christmas!

 

So turns out the linkage issue was an easy fix. Shortened the rod and moved tp fulcrum to the end of the arm where it used to be in factory trim. Moving it outward gave me the increased movement I needed.

 

So turns out the linkage issue was an easy fix. Shortened the rod and moved the fulcrum to the end of the arm where it used to be in factory trim. Moving it outward gave me the increased movement I needed.

 

The M pump does not have a provision for an oil feed like the MW so something must be done about it. I plugged it by removing the tubing off the banjo bolt and brazing the end shut.

 

The hard lines are a bit difficult to reform. I went slow and made all bends with my hands and a vice, a little goes a long way. Because of the slight difference in design #4,5 lines will need to be clearanced for the throttle lever and rod.