1976 Ford Courier v2203/t5 swap
#111
Ok, pictures from this weekend. Never got my motor on the engine stand. But was a beautiful 75* all weekend. unfortunately we are in a horrendous drought and would love the rain.
pictures of the engine bay of the Courier, It will be tight! I removed the A/C so I can fit an intercooler.
I will have to cut up the Radiator support quite a bit.
My motor had a dual remote oil filter heads and they will be mounted on the inner fender next to the battery tray.
Also I will have my remote fuel filter head on the driver side near the firewall on the inner fender.
I am hoping to drop my engine in soon to get dimensions for my oil pan and I will get that punched out and welded up. Going front sump and will have to modify the stock cross member some.
Also been extremely busy at the shop. Made 4 Small block Chevy adapters and 2 Jeep adapters last week.
pictures of the engine bay of the Courier, It will be tight! I removed the A/C so I can fit an intercooler.
I will have to cut up the Radiator support quite a bit.
My motor had a dual remote oil filter heads and they will be mounted on the inner fender next to the battery tray.
Also I will have my remote fuel filter head on the driver side near the firewall on the inner fender.
I am hoping to drop my engine in soon to get dimensions for my oil pan and I will get that punched out and welded up. Going front sump and will have to modify the stock cross member some.
Also been extremely busy at the shop. Made 4 Small block Chevy adapters and 2 Jeep adapters last week.
Last edited by yellow68gto; 03-09-2015 at 05:07 PM.
#112
Took a bunch of measurements and it looks like I can use the stock motor mounts with modifications. They should be easy to modify.
I will need to modify the center cross member by notching the front and top. once this is done I can use my oil pan I already made and use it as a front sump and ad another oil drain to the opposite side. I need a passenger side oil pan drain for one of the oil filter heads that drain back to the oil pan. I need to pull numbers off the current baldwin oil filters and I believe one is a standard oil filter and one is a bypass.
If I move the whole motor and transmission assembly forward 2 inches. (based on block to trans mating surface being zero "0")
The Kubota is 3 inches shorter then the original gassser.
Once the motor/trans assembly is moved forward my shifter will only be shifted 3 inches rearward. I am going to go sit in the truck and pretend to shift gears for a couple minutes. Probably make some vroom vroom noises while i'm in there.
also looks like i found my Intercooler, need to make a couple more measurements but it is going to be very tight.
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...ry_Code=IC35CO
There is this one that claims it is 24" wide with 2.5" inlet/outlet and 18 inch cores. Now my current radiator is 18.25 inches wide. Going to be close. I also found a very similar by REV9 on ebay that is a similar but claims 25 inches wide. I will probably go with the second on and hope it give me some wiggle room.
Core sizes are 18x11.75x3 3/8", should cool down intake temps nicely
more to come later
Thanks
Ken
I will need to modify the center cross member by notching the front and top. once this is done I can use my oil pan I already made and use it as a front sump and ad another oil drain to the opposite side. I need a passenger side oil pan drain for one of the oil filter heads that drain back to the oil pan. I need to pull numbers off the current baldwin oil filters and I believe one is a standard oil filter and one is a bypass.
If I move the whole motor and transmission assembly forward 2 inches. (based on block to trans mating surface being zero "0")
The Kubota is 3 inches shorter then the original gassser.
Once the motor/trans assembly is moved forward my shifter will only be shifted 3 inches rearward. I am going to go sit in the truck and pretend to shift gears for a couple minutes. Probably make some vroom vroom noises while i'm in there.
also looks like i found my Intercooler, need to make a couple more measurements but it is going to be very tight.
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...ry_Code=IC35CO
There is this one that claims it is 24" wide with 2.5" inlet/outlet and 18 inch cores. Now my current radiator is 18.25 inches wide. Going to be close. I also found a very similar by REV9 on ebay that is a similar but claims 25 inches wide. I will probably go with the second on and hope it give me some wiggle room.
Core sizes are 18x11.75x3 3/8", should cool down intake temps nicely
more to come later
Thanks
Ken
Last edited by yellow68gto; 03-14-2015 at 09:39 AM.
#113
Got my accessories done. well accessory, all i have is an alternator, was thinking about installing a York AC compressor for on board air but the alternator went so easy i didn't want to push my luck.
I will make the spacer I need on moday, right now it is just stacked washers
i don't think i was straight on with the camera because in person it lines just right
I used the old alternator bracket for adjustment on top and had to put a small nothch
stack of washers, looks like I need a .700 spacer
that is it for now. off to lunch and hopefully pick up my trans
Thanks
Ken
I will make the spacer I need on moday, right now it is just stacked washers
i don't think i was straight on with the camera because in person it lines just right
I used the old alternator bracket for adjustment on top and had to put a small nothch
stack of washers, looks like I need a .700 spacer
that is it for now. off to lunch and hopefully pick up my trans
Thanks
Ken
#114
ok the last couple pictures of the day.
inside motor is pretty clean
got the oil pan up and mocked. Also flipped the exhaust manifold, yes i know the turbo is backwards. I need to reclock it. I will be making a flange to flip the manifold because I think this will work very nicely. i do not have a power brake booster or anything and appear to have clearance. there is a oil port at the rear of the block about halfway up, can i feed the turbo with that port?
inside motor is pretty clean
got the oil pan up and mocked. Also flipped the exhaust manifold, yes i know the turbo is backwards. I need to reclock it. I will be making a flange to flip the manifold because I think this will work very nicely. i do not have a power brake booster or anything and appear to have clearance. there is a oil port at the rear of the block about halfway up, can i feed the turbo with that port?
#115
The T56 has arrived, floor modifications will be needed. Its a bit bigger. i pulled the numbers and it is the good one luckily. 450 ft lb rating. 2.66/1.78/1.30/1.0/.74/.5 gearing
should help nicely with my 4.11s and 185/75/14's
I need to get the flywheel neutral balanced,I need to order a new clutch and get hydraulics for it. the clutch is not a standard style clutch. It is a pull clutch, helped with space i guess. Uses a unique flywheel and clutch assembly.
For now it will be installed to see how much floor needs to be removed.
ken
should help nicely with my 4.11s and 185/75/14's
I need to get the flywheel neutral balanced,I need to order a new clutch and get hydraulics for it. the clutch is not a standard style clutch. It is a pull clutch, helped with space i guess. Uses a unique flywheel and clutch assembly.
For now it will be installed to see how much floor needs to be removed.
ken
#116
I am jealous, I have been wanting a t56 for some time now, but I wanted the .62 OD. You might be able to find some alternate shifter locator assemblies. or just make a relocation bracket for the one you have. Here are the ones on ebay, they have dozens of different re-locations available.. but a little spendy ebay item #110934315809
That trans should be very very nice behind the Kubota.
Is that a speed sender on the tail housing? I was wondering if they had speed senders?
have a good time with that.
That trans should be very very nice behind the Kubota.
Is that a speed sender on the tail housing? I was wondering if they had speed senders?
have a good time with that.
#117
#119
I haven't figured out speed signal yet. Yes it is electronic. I am probably going to get a electronic Speedo and change all my gauges in the dash. I came across a set of Stewart Warner green line gauges that were In my dad's old boat and even has an hour meter. Going to probably use those
#120
Yea that would work but I could easy fabricate an offset shifter. If my measurements all work out the shifter will only be back 3 inches further. Also the stock shiftrt came up and bent back to come over the bench seat. In the end I think it will be a wash on placement and just much nicer shorter throws.
Also I am getting rid of the bench in favor of buckets
Also I am getting rid of the bench in favor of buckets