1976 Ford Courier v2203/t5 swap
Ok, pictures from this weekend. Never got my motor on the engine stand. But was a beautiful 75* all weekend. unfortunately we are in a horrendous drought and would love the rain.
pictures of the engine bay of the Courier, It will be tight! I removed the A/C so I can fit an intercooler.
I will have to cut up the Radiator support quite a bit.
My motor had a dual remote oil filter heads and they will be mounted on the inner fender next to the battery tray.
Also I will have my remote fuel filter head on the driver side near the firewall on the inner fender.
I am hoping to drop my engine in soon to get dimensions for my oil pan and I will get that punched out and welded up. Going front sump and will have to modify the stock cross member some.




Also been extremely busy at the shop. Made 4 Small block Chevy adapters and 2 Jeep adapters last week.
pictures of the engine bay of the Courier, It will be tight! I removed the A/C so I can fit an intercooler.
I will have to cut up the Radiator support quite a bit.
My motor had a dual remote oil filter heads and they will be mounted on the inner fender next to the battery tray.
Also I will have my remote fuel filter head on the driver side near the firewall on the inner fender.
I am hoping to drop my engine in soon to get dimensions for my oil pan and I will get that punched out and welded up. Going front sump and will have to modify the stock cross member some.




Also been extremely busy at the shop. Made 4 Small block Chevy adapters and 2 Jeep adapters last week.
Last edited by yellow68gto; Mar 9, 2015 at 05:07 PM.
Took a bunch of measurements and it looks like I can use the stock motor mounts with modifications. They should be easy to modify.
I will need to modify the center cross member by notching the front and top. once this is done I can use my oil pan I already made and use it as a front sump and ad another oil drain to the opposite side. I need a passenger side oil pan drain for one of the oil filter heads that drain back to the oil pan. I need to pull numbers off the current baldwin oil filters and I believe one is a standard oil filter and one is a bypass.
If I move the whole motor and transmission assembly forward 2 inches. (based on block to trans mating surface being zero "0")
The Kubota is 3 inches shorter then the original gassser.
Once the motor/trans assembly is moved forward my shifter will only be shifted 3 inches rearward. I am going to go sit in the truck and pretend to shift gears for a couple minutes. Probably make some vroom vroom noises while i'm in there.
also looks like i found my Intercooler, need to make a couple more measurements but it is going to be very tight.
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...ry_Code=IC35CO
There is this one that claims it is 24" wide with 2.5" inlet/outlet and 18 inch cores. Now my current radiator is 18.25 inches wide. Going to be close. I also found a very similar by REV9 on ebay that is a similar but claims 25 inches wide. I will probably go with the second on and hope it give me some wiggle room.
Core sizes are 18x11.75x3 3/8", should cool down intake temps nicely
more to come later
Thanks
Ken
I will need to modify the center cross member by notching the front and top. once this is done I can use my oil pan I already made and use it as a front sump and ad another oil drain to the opposite side. I need a passenger side oil pan drain for one of the oil filter heads that drain back to the oil pan. I need to pull numbers off the current baldwin oil filters and I believe one is a standard oil filter and one is a bypass.
If I move the whole motor and transmission assembly forward 2 inches. (based on block to trans mating surface being zero "0")
The Kubota is 3 inches shorter then the original gassser.
Once the motor/trans assembly is moved forward my shifter will only be shifted 3 inches rearward. I am going to go sit in the truck and pretend to shift gears for a couple minutes. Probably make some vroom vroom noises while i'm in there.
also looks like i found my Intercooler, need to make a couple more measurements but it is going to be very tight.
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant...ry_Code=IC35CO
There is this one that claims it is 24" wide with 2.5" inlet/outlet and 18 inch cores. Now my current radiator is 18.25 inches wide. Going to be close. I also found a very similar by REV9 on ebay that is a similar but claims 25 inches wide. I will probably go with the second on and hope it give me some wiggle room.
Core sizes are 18x11.75x3 3/8", should cool down intake temps nicely
more to come later

Thanks
Ken
Last edited by yellow68gto; Mar 14, 2015 at 09:39 AM.
Got my accessories done. well accessory, all i have is an alternator, was thinking about installing a York AC compressor for on board air but the alternator went so easy i didn't want to push my luck.
I will make the spacer I need on moday, right now it is just stacked washers
i don't think i was straight on with the camera because in person it lines just right

I used the old alternator bracket for adjustment on top and had to put a small nothch

stack of washers, looks like I need a .700 spacer

that is it for now. off to lunch and hopefully pick up my trans
Thanks
Ken
I will make the spacer I need on moday, right now it is just stacked washers
i don't think i was straight on with the camera because in person it lines just right

I used the old alternator bracket for adjustment on top and had to put a small nothch

stack of washers, looks like I need a .700 spacer

that is it for now. off to lunch and hopefully pick up my trans
Thanks
Ken
ok the last couple pictures of the day.

inside motor is pretty clean

got the oil pan up and mocked. Also flipped the exhaust manifold, yes i know the turbo is backwards. I need to reclock it. I will be making a flange to flip the manifold because I think this will work very nicely. i do not have a power brake booster or anything and appear to have clearance. there is a oil port at the rear of the block about halfway up, can i feed the turbo with that port?




inside motor is pretty clean

got the oil pan up and mocked. Also flipped the exhaust manifold, yes i know the turbo is backwards. I need to reclock it. I will be making a flange to flip the manifold because I think this will work very nicely. i do not have a power brake booster or anything and appear to have clearance. there is a oil port at the rear of the block about halfway up, can i feed the turbo with that port?



The T56 has arrived, floor modifications will be needed. Its a bit bigger. i pulled the numbers and it is the good one luckily. 450 ft lb rating. 2.66/1.78/1.30/1.0/.74/.5 gearing
should help nicely with my 4.11s and 185/75/14's
I need to get the flywheel neutral balanced,I need to order a new clutch and get hydraulics for it. the clutch is not a standard style clutch. It is a pull clutch, helped with space i guess. Uses a unique flywheel and clutch assembly.

For now it will be installed to see how much floor needs to be removed.
ken
should help nicely with my 4.11s and 185/75/14's
I need to get the flywheel neutral balanced,I need to order a new clutch and get hydraulics for it. the clutch is not a standard style clutch. It is a pull clutch, helped with space i guess. Uses a unique flywheel and clutch assembly.

For now it will be installed to see how much floor needs to be removed.
ken
I am jealous, I have been wanting a t56 for some time now, but I wanted the .62 OD. You might be able to find some alternate shifter locator assemblies. or just make a relocation bracket for the one you have. Here are the ones on ebay, they have dozens of different re-locations available.. but a little spendy ebay item #110934315809
That trans should be very very nice behind the Kubota.
Is that a speed sender on the tail housing? I was wondering if they had speed senders?
have a good time with that.
That trans should be very very nice behind the Kubota.
Is that a speed sender on the tail housing? I was wondering if they had speed senders?
have a good time with that.
I haven't figured out speed signal yet. Yes it is electronic. I am probably going to get a electronic Speedo and change all my gauges in the dash. I came across a set of Stewart Warner green line gauges that were In my dad's old boat and even has an hour meter. Going to probably use those
Yea that would work but I could easy fabricate an offset shifter. If my measurements all work out the shifter will only be back 3 inches further. Also the stock shiftrt came up and bent back to come over the bench seat. In the end I think it will be a wash on placement and just much nicer shorter throws.
Also I am getting rid of the bench in favor of buckets
Also I am getting rid of the bench in favor of buckets


