there is a time limit that the ECM will let you crank for, i think it is 30 max. typically you crank for 30 sec, rest for 2 minutes and try again. for me i say screw it and pour a cap full (1oz?) of gasoline (safer then starting fluid for diesels) down the intake and it lights off the first time. when primed mine will still fire when the voltage is down to about 9 volts and turning over slowly, but that may be due to the dual CP3s i have that can build pressure quicker

currant is directly related to voltage so i wouldn't be too worried about harming the starter with week batteries unless it causes excessive cranking, but the ECM limits this anyways.

if it was me i would prime the filter again without opening the bleed screw, unless you think there is still air in the filter, till it the bulb was hard, take the grid heater (intake air heater just above the "Y" in front of the turbo) off and pour a cap full of gas down the hole and start her up. then take it for a test drive and if the batteries still are bad after getting a good charge then i would look into replacing them

good luck, Jason

 

I picked up one battier to replace the 8 year old one and I'm replacing the cable ends they were gunked up bad so I'll try the gas here in a few and see what she does

 

FYI, it is best to replace batteries in pairs but not required, how did your other one check out?

 

dad bought me the other one about a week ago they are the sand amps and brand both are ca 1020 and 850 cca

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still have a no start issue this is all it does with a little gas in the intake where the heater is the other i noticed it "hazing" i dont know why with new injectors?? it dont smell like oil or colent it has that same smell as the smoke it did before it stopped running any help im at a total lose now

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i also have no oil pressure gauge movement when spining hand hardly any when it tries to fire

 

doesn't seem like you are getting any fuel, double check the rubber fuel lines coming out of the filter and leading up to the CP3 for any kinks or collapsed hoses.

check the large connectors on the top of the engine for bent or pushed back pins, make sure the ECM and FCIM connectors are fully inserted, etc

do you have any OBD tools that can read fuel pressure? the ECM needs to see 1450 PSI (10 Mpa) before it will open the injectors.

if all else fails, take off the fuel supply line on the filter and connect a hose and container to it an fill it with fuel, prime, see if the fuel level goes down when cranking the engine over

 

i dont have a scanner and ill recheck all the plugs tomorrow thanks for the help im sooo ready to be done with this project i also replaced all the rubber fuel lines with new ones, is it just not spinning fast enough to get oil pressure? it still has the old oil with a little diesel in it from the old injectors

 

from what i can see all the plugs/pins look good so maybe my cp3 isnt pumping enough psi? ive heard of folks unplugging the FPR to get "max rail pressure" is this safe? would it help me find whats gone wrong?

 

yes, unplugging the CP3's pressure regulator will cause it to go to max PSI, you should have no problems running like this for testing. i just wouldn't try driving around town like this.

i have done this before to help build pressure and the engine runs loud

 

the FPR is on the back of the CP3 right?

 

it is actually on top of the CP3. the connector does point back though