So i got the gl4 torq max or whatever ecm and turbo master from heath, and i am just wondering for right now what is the easiest way to block off the egr without switching to a type f intake.

 

Here some info for you


Don't really have pictures of the complete EGR delete as there are a couple ways to do it...

Items Needed:

* 3/8" metric socket set
* Computer Reflash (depending on what you do - read further)
* An "F" Intake (Method 1)
* Dremel (optional)
* Frost Plug (Method 2)

Items you can Delete:

* Vacuum Pump (If TurboMaster installed)
* EGR (If using F intake)
* All Vacuum Lines
* EGR Solenoids (read further for more information about this)


Removing Vacuum Pump

* Remove Serpentine Belt
* Unbolt AC Compressor (96+ not needed)
o On 96+ Just unbolt the Vacuum pump through the holes in the pulley
* Unbolt AC Compressor Bracket and unbolt the Vacuum pump from it (3 bolts)
* Remove the vacuum lines from the vacuum pump to the solenoids, and to the wastegate/EGR.
* Install the AC Compressor and the Bracket

Solenoids and Sensors

* On 94-95 Models
o If you have a reflash that has EGR Delete function on it, you can remove all three solenoids completely.
o If you have stock programming or an aftermarket reflash that does not have an EGR Delete function you may have to keep the sensors plugged into the computer. You can try to unplug them but it may throw an Check Engine light.
* On 96+ Models
o "I think" you have to have a reflashed computer or else it will throw codes/check engine light. I'm not 100% sure on this but you can try removing the vacuum lines from the solenoids and see what happens.
o If the truck throws a check engine light it shouldn't hurt the trucks performance but you will have the annoying orange light up all the time.
* Those trucks that are equipped with a BARO sensor, you must keep this sensor plugged into the computer or you will get a check engine light.
* You can also try to get a donor computer from an F truck, but you have to make sure the codes on the eprom (on 94-95) and all the specs are the same on the donor ecm as your truck.

Serpentine Belt Sizes

* 1994-1995: 101" - 101.5"
* 1996+: 99.5"
* Basic rule of thumb is ~1" shorter then stock belt size when removing vacuum pump.

Method 1: (Using an F Intake)

* Remove the top 6 bolts, unclamp the boot and unbolt the bar that connects to the turbo. Then remove the upper intake
* Remove all the bolts from the lower intake. Keep note on how the injector line clamps are placed and where the longer and shorter bolts are placed. Then remove the old intake.
* Remove the old gasket and replace with a new gasket. No sealer should be required for this, just the gasket.
* Put the new intake in place, making sure not to mess up the gasket you just installed. It "may" take some maneuvering to get it in the right place.
* Bolt down the lower intake to the correct specs and correct sequence. See attached picture for information. Upper Intake Torque Spec: 31 ft lbs.
o Make sure you install all bolt lengths in the correct holes and make sure you install the injector line clamps.
* Install upper intake (and new gasket) and connect/clamp the boot and bolt down the bar that connects to the turbo. Install all 6 bolts on the upper intake, torqued to 17 ft lbs.

Method 2: (Blocking off EGR)

* Remove the top 6 bolts, unclamp the boot and unbolt the bar that connects to the turbo. Then remove the upper intake.
* Install the frost plug in the middle hole where the EGR sits on the lower intake.
o Click Here for information about frost plug. Here is another thread.
* This would be a good time to de-web the upper intake out for better flow.
o Click Here for a couple pictures
* Install upper intake (and new gasket) and connect/clamp the boot and bolt down the bar that connects to the turbo. Install all 6 bolts on the upper intake, torqued to 17 ft lbs.
o You will have to keep the EGR on unless you modifiy it
o To modify it, you have to weld a piece of aluminum to cover the hole. You may be able to just be able to use a place with the egr gasket, but i'm not sure

Other Information

* If removing vacuum pump, make sure all devices that use the vacuum pump are converted. This can include the following:
o EGR System
o WasteGate
o HVAC Controls (normally only on vans).
* I personally like HeathDiesels reflash with the EGR Delete, but KennedyDiesels reflash is just as good (from what I hear)
* Always take your time and do stuff right the first time. No need to do things twice.
* Here is information on an EGR Dummy Circuit

I personally prefer METHOD 1 over the other method.

The images below describe the following (in order):

* Lower Intake Bolt sizes and info
* Intake Torque Sequence
* F and S Intake Comparison
* Before Pics (yes.. I have/had leaks )
* After Intake replacement (Method 1)

 

I took of a freeze plug in the egr tower.33mm and some are 45mm plug is the correct size but napa didn't have one, I had to modify one that was a little bigger. Heres the pic. Was taken with my camera phone so the quality isn't great.




Fix DTC code 32/33
Build this little circit and take away both egr-solenoid and MAP-sensor and the SES is not going on for the EGR codes.
I made this circit for K2500 -95 and tested for one month and it's working good, and i think it's much cheaper than reflash to F engine...

 

i did get a heath reflash with egr delete and the turbo master. what are the advantages of removing the vacuum pump. just the power gained by removing the accessory drive?

 

If you remove the pump you will a 1" shorter belt

Goodyear (vac pump removed on 96+): GTR-4060995

 

I installed the computer and turbo master today, as well as putting the plug in the egr. im waiting for my f intake to come in. i was just wondering is it normal for it to be louder after and more of that 6.5 knocking sound? or does that mean the injector pump needs timing

 

don't see why IP would need time then yet you upgrade computer in. Have you had the mass with yet if not you going want to have it set to -1.94

You may want to call Heath see what he said i don't know anything his upgrade computers