1982 chevy 6.2 problems - Diesel Bombers



Chevy/GMC 6.2L and 6.5L Discussion of Chevy and GMC Trucks with 6.2L and 6.5L Diesel Engines

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Old 10-21-2009, 04:09 PM
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Default 1982 chevy 6.2 problems

i bought a 6.2 about 3 months ago and on the way back from where i bought it, it died. it was spitting and sputering for about 2 miles then when i stopped at a stop sign it died i got it restarted got to a gas station and it died, ive put a new fuel pump in(not injector) and it still is not getting fuel through, i have also cracked an injector and it was just dribbling fuel out...im stuck can anyone help, let me know if u want more info.
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:21 PM
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im have the same problem just boguht this burban with a 6.2 and it idles fine but when i go to drive it i make it 1/8 of a mile a it dies then restarts and go the same then dies ????? Need help got new fuel pump
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:41 PM
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did you change fuel and yes fuel will just dribble out cause you broke open line witch you loose pressure when crack open a line i would also be looking at return lines and even the one in between injectors and put clear fuel line on the return line on the injector pump look for bubbles

not sure if the 6.2 pump have screen on fuel inlet on top pump like the 6.5 but you may want check there all so
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:56 PM
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here some info i found hope it hepls

How to remove air from the fuel system and/or find an air/fuel leak on a 6.2L



This thread covers bleeding the air out of the fuel system on these engines, which is necessary after running out of fuel, after the vehicle has been sitting for a long time, or after replacing any part of the fuel system.

It also includes a method for finding an air leak (or a fuel leak) in the fuel system. Symptoms of an air leak include surging, hard starting, no start, rough running, rough idle, and stalling.

These methods should not be used on trucks with very rusty fuel tanks, as it is possible to blow a hole in the tank.



To bleed air (or old fuel) out of the system on early models (1982-1984):


Hook an air compressor hose into the return line at the injection pump (IP). The line you want is the rubber one that goes into the front of the IP. Alternatively, you can stick the air hose into the filler neck, but that is not as effective. You can also modify a fuel cap with a valve stem off of a tubeless tire and use an air chuck to supply the air, which works good. Whatever way you choose, the next step is to loosen the fitting on the outlet side of the fuel filter. Loosen it enough that fuel will come out readily, but don’t take it all the way off as you will need to be able to tighten it fairly easily. Put a pop bottle with a funnel stuck in the neck under the fitting to collect the fuel. With the fuel cap on tight, turn on the air to about 4 psi. Give it some time to fill the fuel tank. Fuel will start to run out of the fitting and into the pop bottle. When the pop bottle is about full, tighten the fitting. Then turn off the air. Disconnect the air line, wait for any remaining pressure to bleed out of the tank, and then reconnect the return line to the IP. If you used the modified fuel cap or the hose in the filler neck, you can ignore these last few steps.

Once you have bled the air out of the system to that point, you may need to crank for a while to get it to start. It is not necessary to loosen injector lines to bleed the system to the injectors on the 6.2. Simply crank until it starts. You will need to do this in several cranking sessions of about 15-25 seconds in length so that you do not burn out the starter.




To bleed air (or old fuel) out of the system on 1984 and later models:




These trucks were equipped with a combination fuel filter/water separator/fuel heater ("square" filter). If your truck is equipped with a "round" filter, see the procedure for early model trucks.

Hook an air compressor hose into the return line at the injection pump (IP). The line you want is the rubber one that goes into the front of the IP. Alternatively, you can stick the air hose into the filler neck, but that is not as effective. You can also modify a fuel cap with a valve stem off of a tubeless tire and use an air chuck to supply the air, which works good. Whatever way you choose, the next step is to open the air bleed valve. It is located on the top of the fuel filter mounting block. There is a hose fitting right next to it. Hook a hose onto that, and run the hose into a pop bottle (this will collect whatever fuel you bleed out). With the fuel cap on tight, turn on the air to about 4 psi. Give it some time to fill the fuel tank. Fuel will start to flow out of the bleed valve and into the pop bottle. When the pop bottle is about full, close the bleed valve. Then turn off the air. Disconnect the air line, wait for any remaining pressure to bleed out of the tank, and then reconnect the return line to the IP. If you used the modified fuel cap or the hose in the filler neck, you can ignore these last few steps.

Once you have bled the air out of the system to that point, you may need to crank for a while to get it to start. It is not necessary to loosen injector lines to bleed the system to the injectors on the 6.2. Simply crank until it starts. You will need to do this in several cranking sessions of about 15-25 seconds in length so that you do not burn out the starter.




To find an air/fuel leak:




Utilize air pressure to test your fuel supply system for leaks. The procedure for connecting the air is the same as the one used to bleed the system, however you don’t loosen the fitting at the fuel filter (on 1982-1984 models) or open the bleed valve (on newer models). Once you have the system under pressure, crawl under the truck and look for fuel leaks (it might be a good idea to wear safety goggles when you do this). Work slowly from the fuel tank to the injection pump. You need to look very closely, because any leaks are likely to be very slow leaks. Check every connection, every hose, the fuel pump, the fuel filter(s), and the tank switch (if the truck has dual tanks). In short, check everything. When you think you’ve checked everything, go back to the fuel tank and start over. A good thorough inspection should take about fifteen or twenty minutes. Anything that is just barely seeping fuel needs to be repaired. Fix any leaks, test it again, and when you get to the point where it no longer leaks, bleed the air out of the system. Replace the rubber hose on the return line with a clear hose before you start the engine. Start the engine and let it run for a while. If it runs good, take it out on the road for a short distance. Then look at the clear hose and look for any bubbles. If there aren’t any, you are probably in good shape.

If everything looks good, but the engine won’t start the next morning, you probably need to replace the fuel pump. Replace the pump, bleed the air out of the system, and you should be in good shape.
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:09 AM
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Default need help with my 6.2 diesel

ok i have a 1983 k20 pickup 4x4 with a 6.2 diesel i ran out of fuel then i bleed all of the lines got the truck to run for about a min then quite like it had a vapor lock or something both primary and secondary filters are full but i am still getting air out of the secondary filter outlet line does this mean something else is wrong i have been bleeding these lines for 2 days now along with the injectors all i keep getting is bubbles in both of them but the filters are full i looked for leaks cant find any i even hooked air compresser to the tank i really need so help
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:06 PM
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May be silly but have you changed the fuel filter? That can cause stalling (even if it idles fine) or cause it to not even start. Easy fix for a big problem.
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knr View Post
May be silly but have you changed the fuel filter? That can cause stalling (even if it idles fine) or cause it to not even start. Easy fix for a big problem.



yea you might wanna change it i run alot of old oil nd tranny fluid in mine get clogged and the truck barley drives!
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