Those will be fine as long as you take off the high spots. If you do it yourself, you'll want to read up on how to do it, and be very careful not to take off anything but the high spots. Or have it polished.

 

I'll be doing it myself. Thanks for the tip.

I rolled out the mains and am wondering if anyone has recommendations for rod and main bearings. I'm not looking for the cheapest option.

Also, since I don't know the 6.5 production history, I'll ask about my heads. I have the International Optimizer block dated 2003. Was International making the heads then too or just the blocks? I have the diamond pre-cups, but, apart from that, I don't know anything about exactly what heads they are. And does it matter anyway?

 

No crack in the block, so I ordered a set of Clearwater heads. I might go with Flepro for the gaskets and bolts, but does anyone have any strong opinions? What about Mahle gaskets? The block has most likely not been resurfaced. In the absence of absolute certainty, is it better to err toward standard thickness or +0.10"?

 

I'm replacing the engine mounts and am wondering if it's necessary to torque them down to final spec after the engine is resting on them. The manual says to torque to 36 ft lb with the engine off and then tighten to final after it's lowered. Because of the bolt and nut placement, that would be really tricky, maybe impossible, without removing the control arms. Anyone have experience to share?

 

Good morning. I'm about to get my injectors back from the shop (new nozzles). The tech said they had a lot of water in them. I know my tank was leaking and am replacing it now - I'll flush the whole system. What's a good way to clean out the pump? I read somewhere that a gallon of ATF would do it? Any other ideas? What concentration?

Also, does anyone have a (conservative) maximum boost number I can set my DIY turbo master at? I don't think overboost was what caused the blown head gasket, but I want to make sure I stay out of the danger zone. Other than the turbo master, main studs, and out-of-tank fuel filter, this is a stock setup, including head bolts (maybe I should've paid the extra for studs).

 

Does anyone know where this ring terminal ground on the passenger side attaches? Of course I didn't take enough photos when I took the engine out.

 

I got the engine in last night, but it's sitting about 1/4"-3/8" off the trans. It's resting on the new mounts fine, just not flush with the trans. The block alignment dowels are started in the holes on the bell housing, and the torque converter round center is started in the recess in the middle of the flex plate - just not flush. Maybe I nudged the whole driveline back a bit when I was getting the engine in?

Will the block-to-trans bolts drive it home, or would that be looking at stripped threads? Anybody else run into this?