Complete Engine Rebuild
Thanks. I haven't waxed mine yet but thats partly to do with the way the top of the cab looks, most of the clear is gone and it looks terrible.
I just saw your pic. Your truck looks real sharp.
I hate having to buy batteries. Even worse for the diesels.
I just saw your pic. Your truck looks real sharp.
I hate having to buy batteries. Even worse for the diesels.
Yes, my engine runs the serpentine belt setup. I chose to keep it because my truck come factory with serpentine on the 6.5.
When I bought my truck, it already had a replacement (junkyard) engine. The PO changed to the dual thermostat setup because he towed a camper. Due to this fact, I have no experience with a single thermostat housing. With the dual t-stat conversion, several modifications had to be done. First, I had to remove the High-Idle Solenoid. The PO bent the H.I.S. mount to make the t-stat housing fit and so the H.I.S. didn't actually do anything. Also, the engine cover that says (Turbo Power) was made for the single t-stat housing so I had to take the Dremel to it to make it fit. Also, the original upper radiator hose did not work, I had to find one in the auto parts store that was close to fitting, and give it a little persuasion. The dual t-stat housing also makes it a little harder to turn up the fuel, but it's not impossible.
The reason I kept the dual and never tried to junkyard-find the single is because my truck never, and I mean never runs hot. I have pulled around 8,000 pouds (including trailer) up a long hill (approximately 5 miles, speed limit 55 mph) and the gauge only went up to ~190 degrees. The infrared thermometer proved that the gauge is spot on.
Hopefully that helps TrustySub.
When I bought my truck, it already had a replacement (junkyard) engine. The PO changed to the dual thermostat setup because he towed a camper. Due to this fact, I have no experience with a single thermostat housing. With the dual t-stat conversion, several modifications had to be done. First, I had to remove the High-Idle Solenoid. The PO bent the H.I.S. mount to make the t-stat housing fit and so the H.I.S. didn't actually do anything. Also, the engine cover that says (Turbo Power) was made for the single t-stat housing so I had to take the Dremel to it to make it fit. Also, the original upper radiator hose did not work, I had to find one in the auto parts store that was close to fitting, and give it a little persuasion. The dual t-stat housing also makes it a little harder to turn up the fuel, but it's not impossible.
The reason I kept the dual and never tried to junkyard-find the single is because my truck never, and I mean never runs hot. I have pulled around 8,000 pouds (including trailer) up a long hill (approximately 5 miles, speed limit 55 mph) and the gauge only went up to ~190 degrees. The infrared thermometer proved that the gauge is spot on.
Hopefully that helps TrustySub.
1993s have a passenger side A/C compressor here is a picture of a 1993 with the single T-stat housing if the weather works in my favor will take better pictures tommorow and the green truck is a 1994
Okay...I seem to be confused on the various options.
Because my '90 Sub came with A/C on the driver side, I'm relunctant to reposition. Mine has the large heater unit protruding into the engine bay. I'm searching for the optimum bracket setup and run with serpentine! Seems the 1996 and newer H1 and 2500 units utilize what I'm looking for.
If anyone has schematics or part numbers for me to research, I'd be greatly appreciative.
Because my '90 Sub came with A/C on the driver side, I'm relunctant to reposition. Mine has the large heater unit protruding into the engine bay. I'm searching for the optimum bracket setup and run with serpentine! Seems the 1996 and newer H1 and 2500 units utilize what I'm looking for.
If anyone has schematics or part numbers for me to research, I'd be greatly appreciative.
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