I'm in the process of rebuilding my 6.2/6.5 hybrid. Block and crankshaft are at the machine shop. I didn't think to take any pictures during the teardown process. Sorry.

But I will be taking pictures during assembly and I will be posting them here. Ill will be overbored with all new pistons and rings, oil pump, timing set, bearings, and gaskets. I will also be port matching the heads, intake, and exhaust manifolds. I might completely polish the intake, but for now, I plan only to port match. I guess I should port match exhaust to turbo also.What do ya'll think? I'm thikning about smoothing the oil galley for better oil return, though that thought is in the back of my mind. Any opinions?

The fuel screw on my existing IP was seized in place and could not be turned, so I will be replacing the IP also. I'm also thinking about rebuilding my old injectors, or building a pop tester to clean and calibrate the injectors myself. Unless someone here wants to make a few bucks to do it for me? Any takers???

BTW, I will be buying new head bolts, and a new damper. I wish I could afford a Fliuddamper, but I don't have the funds, so I'll be buying a stock replacement.

I think that will have me setup for success, oh... plus the OPS realy mod I'll be doing too. Can anyone think of anything I have forgotten?

 

ARP head studs instead of bolts.

If block or heads are decked get appropriate over thickness head gaskets.

Might want to consider DSG main girdle kit?

Scat cast steel crank would be an upgrade over stock break prone crankshafts.

Powerbond balancer and main drive pulley from Orielys or your machine shop if they deal with Motorstate.

Set injectors to 2200 to 2300 psi pop pressure within 5% of each other and only use Bosch,Delphi or Stanadyne injector nozzles.

Get rig of the GM turbo and go with an ATT or Holset HX40 with the T3 flange.

I wouldn't bother with the port matching on a forced induction engine but that's just me.

Many people stopped doing the oil return polishing because the rough casting aids in heat removal from the oil.

Lubrication Specialists or Leroy Diesel oil cooler kit.

 

Neither block or heads are going to be milled so i will be going with standard thickness head gaskets.

Not sure which way I will go with head bolts or balancer.

As for inhectors, I wasshooting for 2300 psi pop pressure. Bosch only.

Although turbo selection is a big topic of debate, I will stick with my GM8. Mainly because I bought it last year and because it has a larger compressor wheel. (13% larger) And it works great, no lag, spools great, works perfect for me.

I agree that port matching won't really help forced induction engine, but I have a hankering to do it anyway, and since I'm not in a rush to get it back together, I'll go ahead and do it.

This is the first I have heard of the oil heat removal, but it sounds like a very valid point. I probably won't be bothering with that.

I think that my stock oil cooler works just fine, but i will have it cleaned and replace the soft lines.

I got a call from the machine shop today. They told me that they bored the block 0.015" over. It was enough to clean it up and leaves enough room to final hone each cylinder to the new pistons for perfect wall clearance.

I also ordered the engine kit today. Lets just say that my wallet is a lot lighter...

More yet to come.

P.S. I took three hours and cleaned both valve covers and oil pan and painted them. Engine Enamel Gloss Black. I think I'm gonna paint the entire engine the same, but haven't made up my mind yet. Any ideas?

 

Engine paint I would look for Detroit Diesel Alpine Green seen it on a 8V71 once and thought it was preety cool

 

wow. thats about the color of pistachio green. its unique to say the least. I don't think I would want that for an engine color. maybe if it was a tractor engine....idk
I do like how the block, heads and valve covers are the same color and the exhaust manifolds and injector lines are flat black in this picture


I like a darker color for my engines, except for chev orange.. but I don't think that would be the right color for a diesel.....

I might paint my injector lines a lighter color, and maybe my intake and thermostat housing. Not sure oncolor or scheme, still working out the major decisions on engine building.



Thanks for the idea though mayhem

 

I forgot that I took this picture, just found it. Check out this piston to cylinder wall clearance!! Can you believe that my engine still ran good like this?


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I got my oil pan and both valve covers cleaned and painted.


Also started port matching the heads. Roughed in, ready for smoothing out.


I also received my new pistons and brought to the machine shop for finish cylinder honing. I received the gaskets, conrod bearings, timing set, oil pump, cam bearings and freeze plugs today. I'm gonna bring the cam bearings and freeze plugs to the machine shop in the morning.

 

I would be concerned about manifold sealing with the polishing on the flange-I would get the manifold surface machined straight when you get the porting done,the manifolds too-they are meant to be assembled with no gasket and the stock bolts are machined/threaded specially to maintain clamping force while letting the manifold expand and contract.

Grade 5 bolts won't do that.

 

That's not a polishing on the flange. Actually I didn't even touch it, I don't know why that looks so clean.. You do make a valid point.I'll check the surfaces before I put it together. And I also remember the 6.5 that I pulled out of the truckwhen I got it did not have exhaust manifold gaskets. But when I bought a full gasket set, or even just a head gasket set, they both came with exhaust manifold gaskets. Is this an afterthought? Did someone decide that they should be there?

 

Gasket makers make gaskets to sell-that's their job whether they are needed or not.

If you do use them you get leaks quicker because they get sand papered buy the expansion and contraction of the manifold and are junk quite quickly.
Some high temp silicone is about as good as there is to correct any small imperfections.

 

I assumed that someone had to engineer the gasket, and with that being so, I would also assume that it was engineered for some reason. I like the idea of having a gasket (or a sealant) because of the Turbo. Pre-turbo exhaust leaks contributes to Turbo lag and hurts boost pressure.