Doing some work on Dad's 6.5 !?!?!?
#1
Doing some work on Dad's 6.5 !?!?!?
I'm replacing the pump on dad's truck, anything special i should do while i'm at it?
I know he wouldn't say no to an increase in power as long as it won't hurt his mileage...
I'm seriously considering building a set of symmetrical twins for him, this would include new exhaust manifolds on both sides...
How much boost will these 6.5 take without risking any failures? How much boost are they making stock? Should i worry about the stock lift pump not supplying enough fuel?
Any suggestions are welcome !
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
3GKGK16F1TG513238 -- anyone want to decode this, tell me wich Stanadyne pump it has...
I know he wouldn't say no to an increase in power as long as it won't hurt his mileage...
I'm seriously considering building a set of symmetrical twins for him, this would include new exhaust manifolds on both sides...
How much boost will these 6.5 take without risking any failures? How much boost are they making stock? Should i worry about the stock lift pump not supplying enough fuel?
Any suggestions are welcome !
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
3GKGK16F1TG513238 -- anyone want to decode this, tell me wich Stanadyne pump it has...
Last edited by angelic0-; 10-06-2012 at 07:49 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#2
#3
Ive heard a stock 6.5L makes about 7-8 psi without throwing a code. With a manual wastegate and max e tork ecm you can push it up to 15 with no problems. With a few more upgrades, 20 pounds should be no problem. I dont know much about 6.5L's to give you my opionion about swapped it over to mechanical, and adding a second turbo. If you know what your doing, i dont see why not.
#4
Well, i'm thinking about ditching that ECM, putting a throttle cable operated "analog" fuel pump on it.... and boosting 20, maybe even 25psi...
i've done a little research on these Borg Warner turbos that come stock on them and they have too small of an exhaust housing to make any boost without drive pressures spiking to the sky..
with a HX35 or even a HX35/40 Hybrid, these 6.5 should be able to breathe more easy...
only problem i see is that the mechanical stanadyne has no "boost control" or AFC ?
i've done a little research on these Borg Warner turbos that come stock on them and they have too small of an exhaust housing to make any boost without drive pressures spiking to the sky..
with a HX35 or even a HX35/40 Hybrid, these 6.5 should be able to breathe more easy...
only problem i see is that the mechanical stanadyne has no "boost control" or AFC ?
#5
Well, i'm thinking about ditching that ECM, putting a throttle cable operated "analog" fuel pump on it.... and boosting 20, maybe even 25psi...
i've done a little research on these Borg Warner turbos that come stock on them and they have too small of an exhaust housing to make any boost without drive pressures spiking to the sky..
with a HX35 or even a HX35/40 Hybrid, these 6.5 should be able to breathe more easy...
only problem i see is that the mechanical stanadyne has no "boost control" or AFC ?
i've done a little research on these Borg Warner turbos that come stock on them and they have too small of an exhaust housing to make any boost without drive pressures spiking to the sky..
with a HX35 or even a HX35/40 Hybrid, these 6.5 should be able to breathe more easy...
only problem i see is that the mechanical stanadyne has no "boost control" or AFC ?
The HX35 is a good upgrade but an HX40 would be better with a 16cm2 exhuast housing. The HX35 may run too high of boost while cruising, most only have the 12cm2 housing.
If you want to run 20+psi you will have to turn up the fuel screw on the ip. Good luck with the project
Last edited by JorgeNY; 10-28-2012 at 03:13 PM.
#6
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Over 15 psi boost requires lowering the compression to 18:1 from 21:1.
ARP head studs are a must and a main girdle or splayed billet main caps are required.
A new billet crank would be nice but a new scat crank would be the minimum required.
Even with all that keeping head gaskets in place would be a challenge with over 20psi boost.
ARP head studs are a must and a main girdle or splayed billet main caps are required.
A new billet crank would be nice but a new scat crank would be the minimum required.
Even with all that keeping head gaskets in place would be a challenge with over 20psi boost.
#7
Over 15 psi boost requires lowering the compression to 18:1 from 21:1.
ARP head studs are a must and a main girdle or splayed billet main caps are required.
A new billet crank would be nice but a new scat crank would be the minimum required.
Even with all that keeping head gaskets in place would be a challenge with over 20psi boost.
ARP head studs are a must and a main girdle or splayed billet main caps are required.
A new billet crank would be nice but a new scat crank would be the minimum required.
Even with all that keeping head gaskets in place would be a challenge with over 20psi boost.
It's not boost that kills headgaskets, it's backpressure/drive pressure...
We have an extra 6.5 if we blow this one up..
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