I have a 1995 k2500 4/4 6.5 td it has 73k on and when I bought it it was completly stock with now mods. and it sat for long periods. The old man had all the recipts from bought new and they replaced IP pump at 30k and entire motor @ 39k but reused injectors etc motor and heads are new. this was in 2000 and was done in oregan and i am in ga. but anyways after i drove for a week it started dieing going down the road and would start back up with no problems and checking engine light would come on @ 1500 rpms. So I replaced PMD and relocated behind bumper with a super cooler ( D-tech PMD) and reinstalled oem chip ( like was recommened #5 resistor) drove for another week ran good and then started bucking and low on power so I checked lift pump and ops was a fault so I replaced ops and lift pump ( with A/c Delco) ran good for another week then same thing but then engine light come off and on intermitten ( DTC# 78) so I replaced wastegate actuactor (with a/c delco) and fix the light issue but not the bucking and low power . So then I found that shut off silinoid was at fault , I could tap on the side of it litely and would stumble engine so I replaced it with a standyne and took care of the cutting out for two weeks ( also replaced the fuel pump relay too) and also have changed fuel filter several times too. but then last week it started acting up again like either was not getting enough fuel, low on power , and would stumble every now and then . so I changed fuel filter still no fix so then a I changed MAP sensor ( A/C delco) still no fix so I changed $400 pedal with TPS sensor, still no fix so I started checking grounds and were loose . so I cleaned connections all connections and tighten, and ran good real good for two weeks until today started stumbling and low on power , so I rechecked grounds there are good and I replaced ALT with a 150Amp. Still doing it. but sometimes it runs good for awhile then runs like explained. Should I change injectors or What? Please help I am tired of putting money in this truck . I dont mind spending money aslong as it takes care of problems. Is there any sensors that are on trany that would cause this? any help is good help.

 

when you relocated the new PMD did you put it on a heatsync and did you use the ground nut with a wire to the frame?

 

yes i was the heatsync that came with PMD and No I did not run a wire to frame just pluged in. But I will try it . Do I need to ground the cooler mounting bolt or splice the in to wire harness .

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The Diagnostic Checklist:
Please fill out to best of your knowledge.



1. Describe the problem you are having in detail:

2. Year of truck/engine. 1995
3. Odometer reading (indicate miles or kilometers). 73041
4. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......). DS4
5. Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500, 2500, 2500HD, 3500, 3500HD. K2500hd
6. Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F or an S engine code 8th VIN digit) VIN# F
7. Air Filter condition (visual check). BRAND NEW
8. Fuel filter condition (freshly changed, mileage since changed). BRAND NEW
9. Location of PMD/FSD? (ex. on pump/remote over intake, behind bumper). BEHIND FRONT BUMPER
9a. If remote mounted, describe wiring harness (homemade or purchased from which vendor). VENDER PURCHACSED
9b. Indicate the location and condition of the FSD/IP grounding wire. ON TOP OF PUMP IN FACTORY SPOT AND IT LOOKS A LITTLE CORRODED
10. Outside Temperature (C or F). _90F°

11. Service Engine Light while running?- on/off/intermittent
NO
11a. Service Engine light does glow during start/cranking/bulb check: Yes/No YES
12.Have you scanned for engine codes? Yes/No YES
12a. List exact results on engine codes. NONE

13. Condition of Battery terminals (removed, cleaned and tightened). REPLACED
14. Known condition and age of Batteries. ABOUT A YEAR OLD
14a. Are batteries a matched set of same age? YES
15. Condition of Major Grounds (removed, cleaned and tightened)
CLEANED AND RETIGHTENED
16. Does engine crank, or "turn over"? YES
16a. Does engine start and run? YES
17. If engine does not start- Crack injector line: do you have fuel? Yes/No
18. Does your Wait To Start light come on? YES
18a.Number of seconds WTS light is lit. ABOUT 7-10 SECONDS
19. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer). SINS OVER GOOD

20. Are you experiencing Stalling? YES
20a. Describe the event (upon startup only, down the road, hit a bump, etc...) DOWN THE ROAD
20b. Do you notice loss of dash or instruments? ALTERNATOR GAUGE IN NOT ACCURATE 14.02 @BATTS AND SHOWING 13.00 ON GAUGE AND 14.00 IN FUSE BOX WITH MATCO MUILTY METER
21. Check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions. GOOD
22. In a no-hot start, pour a bottle of room-temp water on the injection pump. Does it start now?
23. Lift pump test - Describe results.
LIFT PUMP GOOD BRAND NEW A/C DELCO
24. Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? Yes/No NO REPLACED T-STATS 25. Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? Yes/No NO
26. Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts? Yes/No NO
27. Have you used the block heater? Does it affect engine starting? (only try for starting problems).
28. Are all glowplugs in proper working order? YES

29. During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? Yes/No
NO
30. Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues? NO
31. Turbo check out - Pass/Fail
32. Indicate fuel that you are using: Bio-Diesel, #2 Diesel, SVO/WVO, other #2 DIESEL
32a. If running Veggie Oil fuel setup, indicate details of your conversion (homemade or packaged system).
33. Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list. NONE
34. Upon unscrewing fuel cap, do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? Yes/No YES
35. Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having? NO
36. Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better. NONE

 

Ground nut to the frame will be sufficent its working on mine anyways

 

ok I found a ground strap going the back corner of motor (passenger side ) going to the frame by the starter it was not loose but not super tight so i removed and cleaned and sanded frame there and tightened up. And had already cleaned and tight the group of ground wires where that strap goes to before. but my question is that frame ground would it cause truck to stumble and run rough like explained before and if so why? Now my alternator gauge still goes up and down when i check every where else it reads 14.05 and on gauge only reading 13.05 at the most and under at all times . and I have a funny feeling that if I get the gauge thing fixed . I will find that it will take care of my engine problem. and help. Now I know that I am probly not supposed to give out any personal info. but I need help with this cause I am fooled. if you have any knowledge on these beast please call my and if you help me fix it over the phone I would kindly send u a healthy tip. thanks 478-365-9340 josh

 

well Mayham so far so good. no problems yet. but last night after we talked I test drove and the abs started to ingauge everytime i stepped on the brake so I found that a hole rubbed through left front abs sensor wire from inside the wheel and was touching bare cooper so i moved wire and taped up and took care of abs . and I noticed that my alternator gauge was not all over the place holding steady at 13.90 maybe this was the problem why gauge was crazy. maybe this wire was the gauge being crazy maybe u know why!yeah: ing:

 

well the truck is still running great other than the alternator gauge but i know how to fix it just have not had time too.

 

bad connections behind the cluster i have heard will do the jumpy gauges

 

why i took it apart and it is the style that has a plastic membrain and just slides into it and the all looked good . I change all the power wires too . I really think it is the cluster. cause gauge will read right 1 day and wrong the next . but when reading 13 volt at gauge I check it at fuse panel it is @ 14.06 but I plan on put in one of those pods where the aftermarket gauges are in the trim peice beside the windsheild.