yeah, they might have you answer a few questions about your truck like whats done to it and such and then they will set you up, power hungery performance has good tunes, its what i have and i love them, good shifting, and TC lock up

 

just dont waist your money on a smoke tune its pointless.... and i recommend getting at least one tow tune or stock, because even if you dont tow that often, the one time u hook up to something heavy you will want to be able to tune it down so your egt's dont sky rocket or twist your tranny apart. the tunes i have are smoke(which i will soon get changed to stock), 40 hp heavy tow, 65 hp daily driver, 100 hp performance, 140 extreme, and high idol... sorry if i missed it somewhere, but do you have an aftermarket intake, exhaust, or gauges?

 

Try the polyurethane motor mounts. They'll tighten things up, with out transmitting tooo much vibration.

 

i have an afe stage 2 intake.. trans pyro and boost pillar gauges and just straight piped stacks....and where do i get those motor mounts?

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and i was thinkin..is it possible that with the stiff shifting that my chip has on it and that added with the hard shifting of the banks trans command could be causing my truck shift really hard for no reason like it does?

 

I would pull the banks crap off. There's no use for it if you have a TS chip.

 

Alright, you have changed all of the mounts and it still hits? Basic logic would tell you to look further back. What does the rear suspension look like? Are the leaf springs in an "S" from using blocks (not a big lift block fan myself)? Have you checked the leaf spring clamps? Are the U-bolts tight? Are the U-joints good? What about the leaf spring bushings? You have to be willing to chase this thing all the way out to the lug nuts if you need to. Changing JUST the mounts clearly didn't fix your problem...

Also, before you get a big boner about spending $500 to $750 on a new programmer, have you removed ALL of the aftermarket electronics ONE AT A TIME to isolate which one could be the issue? If not, try that before doing any electronics upgrade.

In short, anyone can throw money at a problem, trouble shoot and make sure it's the RIGHT money you're throwing at this problem.

 

yeah im going to take the banks thing off im just tryin to figure out how because i didnt put it on and if i just unplug it the motors lugs really bad

 

where exactly does it hit the floor, sounds like when a carrier barring goes out, or if its hitting on top of a u joint its probably that. i agree with Karls03, sounds like something else is your problem, maybe even something in the rear diff, but i doubt it.

 

the u-joint that comes out of the transfercase is hitting....my carrier berring bracket has a spacer that drops it down because of the lift

 

Make sure that spacer is angled or wedge shaped (thin forward). If it is not a wedge, or it was installed backwards, it will put a bind on the carrier bearing. It's a good idea to lower the carrier bearing, but it MUST maintain a straight line on the exit end, ie that is a splined shaft going into a bearing, any angle will destroy it. This is why it needs to be wedge shaped, not a square block.