Any leads on where I could get a new pump head and rotor? I heard the 14mm is too volatile and hard on parts; not exactly a streetable part with very long life. Someone said something about an in-between upgrade. 13mm or something?


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Bosch used to make a 13mm head and rotor for the VE, but not anymore. Impossible to find. Your only options right now are stock 12mm or Rocken Tech 14mm. I chose to stay 12mm for reliability.

 

Someone should seriously go into production of the 13mm then hahaha. Man I'd like to get my hands on one, unfortunately if they're "impossible to find" then they have to be worth their weight in gold... Kind of like the freaking internally splined hubs for these trucks... $229 bucks a piece brand new and $100 for a rusty turd on eBay.


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Believe me, if I could have found one, I would have bought it.

 

i think it was the combination of the 14 mm head and the 4mm cam plate KTA runs both on his old work truck ( feel free to correct me if wrong ) as for the 4200gsk go for it i have my 3200gsk shortened up a bit and the old girl spins to 3800 ish with a photo tack on the damper she pulls right hard right up 3400 and then drops off... would like to see how you make out

 

Sans the 4mm cam plate.

 

How much would I gain just from the cam plate? Been awhile since I've been into a rotary pump but I know they aren't too difficult hold them the right way to keep the governor weight in place and everything is smooth sailing. And if you spill them that's easily resolved too . I'll keep everyone posted how the spring does. Idk if I want to cut the 4200 spring down or just leave it as is. I know I'll probably have to gain a spline on the throttle shaft for it to idle. But I know consequently I'll lose throttle travel, idk if it'd be so much of a loss in rack travel or not. What's gonna suck is resetting the full power screw I my self every time I snap the throttle and the rpm's hang.


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Couldn't a machine shop bore a 12mm head out to 13mm and just machine a new plunger? I wouldnt figure The plunger to be too hard to re-create. The head I know would be much harder to do.


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1stGen.org • View topic - IP specs.


I've read other places as well about the tolerances being very very small, but I don't know an exact spec. The stock cam plate (2.8mm) gives the most fuel output, but it does so at lower rpm than the 3.2mm cam plate, etc. I've read the 4mm cam plate is a waste on any pump, but I have no experience with it. I hate to be the one to say it, but if you want more reliable power than the 12mm VE can provide, your best be is to P pump your truck . There are other options, but none as cheap and reliable. Especially if you are going to sled pull. If you want to stick with the VE (I really like it myself)...buy a really nice set of injectors and have your pump set up on the bench to get max fuel. You will have to shorten the 4200rpm spring to allow for full fueling (or modify your pump), but horsepower is still going to peak way earlier than that. After that you'll need a set of twins to get max power with the RPM range the VE allows. You should read through a lot of the older posts on 1stgen.org. You'll see what some others have tried and how it worked out for them.

 

the AFC delete top gets rid of all of the internal restrictions that the OEM VE top presents. i'll shorten the spring a hair i just dont want to over extend the spring and ruin it . im running an S300 at 38 pounds of boost right now, im going to up it to 45, run larger injection lines and advance the static timing of the pump some. i think i'll be pleased with the results. i dont need a p-pump. i want this old VE to hang with some of the p-pump trucks. i was right on their bumpers pulling in 2wd... they better be scared once i get my suspension dialed in b/c im coming for them