I think I am ready for the "next step", but I am not sure yet what that step would be...

My truck is a '85 W350 Crew Cab, it is lifted 6" and has 315/75/16 tires with 3.54 gears. It is powered with a '92 CTD with the following mods:

• ISSPRO Boost, fuel pressure, pyro gauges
• South Bend Con O clutch
• 5 x .014 injectors
• HTT 62/65/13
• Source Automotive (Diamond Eye) 4" turbo back, straight pipe exhaust
• BHAF
• Piston Lift pump, 3/8" feed line, 5/16" return
• A1 studs with OEM gasket
• 3600 RPM governor spring
• Turned full fuel screw several (4?) turns (still no indication of runaway)
• Timing is stock

Truck is used as a daily driver, and also pulls up to 8K on occasion...

I am seeing 700-800* cruising, 1400ish @ 90 in 4th, I kissed 1600 at 100+ (speedo was buried deep) in 5th. These temps are empty, I have not towed with it since I turned the pump up. Boost is at 45 PSI (waste gate blocked), fuel pressure holds at 7psi WFO, 18ish @ idle.


I would like to add more fuel (turn up pump some more, and a M2 pin), but I want to try to get my temps a little better under control first...


Also not sure about the safety of my headgasket... I have done 1 hot re-torque, but I have not done a cold re-torque on it yet...


I have done alot of reading over the last couple days, and I am really considering getting an exhaust manifold and stage 3 W/M, but I am also entertaining the thought of twins (not sure about the safety of my head gasket and stock IC though), N2O is not out of the question, but I do not think it is practical for a DD/hauler...


Now my questions;

What is going to lower my EGTs the most? If I go W/M I will usually be running 0-30% methanol...
Does W/M reduce the amount of smoke I produce?
Is my head gasket in danger with any of these options?
How much boost will the stock IC take?

 

Timing bump defiantly a good next step. W/M would be good to cool it and as long as you dont go nuts with the meth I would not worry about the HG, but remember, you have to keep filling the reservoir.

 

I am leaning towards W/M... How nuts is "nuts"? How much boost can a new stock (studded) HG and 20 year old IC take before they pop?


I was thinking about fabbing a 5-10 gallon reservoir that would mount under the body much like a fuel tank for the W/M....


Biggest reason(s) I have not bumped the timing are wanting to avoid the higher cylinder pressure and temps that causes, and not wanting to lose low end power...

 

Lots of factors in when a HG will let go. I run 60+ psi on mine with a .020 over gasket and stock bolts torqued down to 130 ft/lbs. Also sprayed some nitrous on it a few times.

With your larger then stock injectors you will probably see more bottom end power as well as more top end power with a small timing bump. Try 1/8" measured at the mark, I bet you love it.

 

X2

I'd consider pushing it up to 1/4" past stock.

If you're worried about the HG, pass on the W/M for now.
- Trying to keep things cool with W/M, you're gonna want to keep the meth content such that there's only just enough to not have the water put the fire out (perhaps no more than 25% meth). With that, your typical off the shelf cheap windshield washer fluid would work just fine (the -20*F stuff, or there abouts).

 

I am only looking for cooling with the W/M... would be using very small percentages of meth...


Do I have anything to worry about with my HG? Or am I paranoid?

Will bumping the timing help reduce the smoke?
Will W/M reduce the smoke?

I also have an assortment of injector washers that I am going to measure... I will make sure I am using the thinest washers I have...


I have been looking, and I am really thinking about the Snow stage 3 mpg max system... I know it is overpriced, but that is the controller that seems would best fit my needs... What I would really like is the Labonte system with the Snow controller ... Anyway, after reading the setup/install instructions several times, I have been paying close attention to my gauges.

I cruise at ~700-850 and 3-10PSI (depending on speed/incline), 2-3 shift is usually 600-750* and 5-10 PSI, 3-4 is 800-1000* and 15-20 PSI, 4-5 is 1000-1200 and 20-25 PSI. What I am concerned about is the system activating just before I shift, and then my RPMS come down and I hydrolock... Is this a valid concern?

 

anybody?