Very possible. Try the APPS reset as it is very easy and free. You can also remove 3 ( i believe) plastic rivets from the cover of the APPS assembly. Once off, try rotating the linkage by hand. Maybe something is stuck in there.

 

Good point Ryan

 

it rotates fine i pulled all that off and thats when i noticed the slack in the now known cruise control cable. so should i do the apps re calibrate if the reset doesnt work? ive checked all the linkage and it appears to work fine. so to do the reset i remove both battery cables for 30 minutes then i connect them back turn the key to the on position but dont start it and slowly push the pedal to the floor and then slowly release it?

 

dont disconnect batteries just do like I said in the post above

 

oh ok sorry my mind is racing a hundred miles an hour trying to think and focus. problem with only having one vehicle and having to go places. im going to go try the apps reset ill see what happens there.

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ok so ressetting the apps didnt help at first i had a dead pedal. just idled at a normal rpm. did that twice then was back to full open throttle and i dont have a code reader and the only one i have is at work. which i cant get to if my truck is at full open. could it be a sign of the pump going out?

 

Pump usually does the opposite of fueling to WOT. Search for APPS adjust on here, and try that procedure as well. It's more in depth, but may work for you.

 

It doesn't sound like APPS to me. No matter how far out of adjustment it is or could be I don't see that making the truck run wide open. I'm thinking it may be something with the injection pump going. Like RAWilliams said usually it won't run full throttle but the dead pedal is very common. Do you or did you ever have a fuel pressure gauge on the truck?

 

You could try unplugging the APPS and see how it reacts. This should tell you if it is an APPS issue, or a harness issue.

 

ok so i had a diesel mechanic come look at it. we disconnected the edge and the batteries let it reset. no more open throttle but rpms still bounce. i hooked the chip back up and it added power but the rpms bounced and at 2300 rpms and above it would lose power and and the rpms really jumped. at least at this point i got the truck drivable. i guess at this point i should contact edge and see what they have to say. i guess the owner before me had a chip on it but im not sure which. if the ecu was reflashed and set totally back to stock. im thinking this might fix the problem. as far as the apps it seems to be working fine.

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and yes i do have a fuel pressure gauge it runs at 13 psi at idle and drops to 8.5-9 psi at open throttle. so i dont think lift pump.

 

Ok so now I have a completely dead pedal idles fine but won't rev at all. On a scan tool it pulls up the code for low apps voltage and an idle validation code. Would this be an apps adjustment or a new apps?