Alright, I will soon be selling my far from stock Nissan Titan so that I can get a Dodge diesel. its just virtually impossible to get the power i want out of that thing without spending 100 G's....and ive always wanted a diesel. Im considering a 12v or a 98-02 24v, but since this is the 24v forum my question is this...

I want to build a "reliable" 600-700 hp beast. hell even more if my budget allows. its not for any specific purpose other than I want a high horsepower/torque, fun truck to drive. I have a car for a daily driver so it wouldnt even be for that. i realize with enough money the sky is the limit, but approx how much would i be looking at, in the motor alone, to reach these hp goals and maintain a reliable truck? more importantly, is this the right motor for this type of application or should I be looking at the 12v? (ill be posting this in the 12v section as well). i want to do this right the first time guys. Ill get into the all important transmission and other specifics later. thanks in advance

 

hmm decent twin turbo set up, head studs and head work, huge injectors, high horsepower programmer,intake of some sort,intercooler, intercooler boots, valvetrain work, possible piston work, high flow lift pump, and a brave right foot if it ever rains while you are driving this thing! i would not be scared to say 7k for starters to make it bullet proof i left room for labor and such. you could just take the fuel pump off the 94-98.5 12valve and make a 24 a mechanically ran motor and it would run like a raped ape! and a tranny to hold this

 

really helpful info there man. exactly the kind of answer i was hoping to get. thanks so much. actually once i sell my Titan, then buy a used Dodge, i should have at least 10 grand still in hand for motor work and upgrades.

 

I think you'll be surprised how fast you can blow through 10 grand. A fully built tranny to hold everything you want could set ya back 5-7 grand. 89silverbullet is pretty much right on with everything else

 

To get there I did head studs, and o-rings, valve springs and retainers, big set of injectors, an edge drag comp, compound turbos, and a fass 150, full set of Mr Bobs boots, factory intercooler. I am not really sure how much there is to gain with head work. Built the trans billet input and output and a triple disc converter. I still daily drive it, but with the injectors in it now it's got a good haze at idle. But I did get over 18mpg running around town and some highway driving. Now I have to put my truck back to stock for the smog inspections in cali now. So I have to build a non smog year diesel.

 

Invest in a later model commonrail if you're building a play truck. Easier/cheaper to get power out of them. Higher initial investment, but considering other advantages of a newer truck besides just the engine, I'd definitely go that direction. At least I did.

JMHO.

 

what are you planning to do with the truck? do you pull anything?

 

Buying an SO truck with an automatic or a 5 speed will help. From all the things I've read, The High Output VP44 only flows enough for about 500 hp or so.

Now if you go with an automatic you will spend a good chunk of change modifying it to hold the power. For a 600-700 hp truck I would go all billet shafts and all the other goodies. <-- 6-7k depending on who builds it and what all you get. There is not much you can do to a 5 speed. Dual Disk clutch, bigger input shaft, updated main shaft to fix the 5th gear problems. However if you like to ram and jam I wouldn't call the 5 speed reliable at that hp level.

Good twin set. Something like a 75mm primary and a 62mm secondary will get you to around 600 3-4k if you buy a premade kit closer to 2k if you shop around for used stuff.

Good set of 200-220 HP injectors around 600-1k Varies depending on manufacturer and quality of injector and new or used

Head work would be nice if you have the extra coin but not needed. It would make for better spool and drivability. At the least you should do studs and o-rings around 7-800.

Some type of lift pump like a FASS or Air Dog another $600 or so.

Upgraded Valve springs might not be a bad idea, especially if you get a box that will run up to 4k rpm. At that point you will need a damper as well. $800 for both of those

Good chip. Either a Drag Comp, Redline, Quad ADR(though the number of those running a quad over 600 hp is pretty small it seems like) and maybe TSTs new "wonder box" if it ever actually appears.

All that I can think of for right now.

 

yes a commonrail is easier to hit the hp, but then you need to worry about bending rods, sticking the number 6 piston, the cost of injectors as they don't seem to last as well.


depending on your plans for the truck the cheapest way to hit that power and have tons of reliability is with a 12v. But draw backs are it's not adjustable like a 24v. when you time it it's there till you move it. My next truck will have a p7100 in it. It's also cheaper to buy a built truck than to build on yourself.

 

What makes you think rods and pistons are any more vulnerable at a given HP level in a CR than any other 5.9 -12v or whatever?

There were some bad injectors in the first runs 4.5-05. The CR injectors are generally speaking, more vulnerable to ULSD and contamination, no doubt. Good filtering and lubing eliminates that problem. Good advice for any diesel, as far as that goes.