fass ddrp lift pump pressures?
#42
Nothing wrong with the in-tank pumps. They work great, last a long time. Only thing wrong with them is people get conned into replacing them with $5-600 fuel-system-in-a-box setups by dumbasses that don't know any better and shops that make alot of profit installing them.
#43
Come on guys, take the bickering elsewhere. We have a guy here with real questions, lets help him out!!
Correct, the chances of you having a pump on the block and in the tank are slim to none. My truck had a fuel pump delete where the pump would sit on the block. Essentially a housing with a fitting on either end that hooks up to the factory fuel lines.
You can try reaching up on top of the fuel tank to the sending unit and feel what all is up there. If you can fell two separate wire connections up there it could be a in tank pump. Otherwise there should only be one connector with 3 wires for the sending unit.
Installing a mechanical pressure gauge would still be ideal to see if the pressure sensor is accurate. It could be a failed sensor, DDRP internal regulator failed, or the overflow valve has failed.
Overflow valve will run you about $30 or so, and wouldn't hurt to change it.
so if i have a lift pump on the side of the block does that not mean i have an in tank pump?
You can try reaching up on top of the fuel tank to the sending unit and feel what all is up there. If you can fell two separate wire connections up there it could be a in tank pump. Otherwise there should only be one connector with 3 wires for the sending unit.
Installing a mechanical pressure gauge would still be ideal to see if the pressure sensor is accurate. It could be a failed sensor, DDRP internal regulator failed, or the overflow valve has failed.
Overflow valve will run you about $30 or so, and wouldn't hurt to change it.
#44
ok ill look on top of the tank to see if i have a in tank pump. thank you and thanks for not bickering like everyone else is doing.
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well also i am having wiring/electrical issues i have been trying to trouble shoot my grid heater because its messed up?
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well also i am having wiring/electrical issues i have been trying to trouble shoot my grid heater because its messed up?
Last edited by 98dodgecummins; 08-07-2010 at 11:51 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#47
so you just have a ddrp and no in tank pump. have you used a mechanical gauge to verify your pressure yet and make sure your gauge is not messing up? Eliminate the gauge and then go from there. I am pretty sure most local shops will be able to test this for you. If the gauge is correct then you know you might want to regulate the pressure to a constant. you can always unhook your grid heater to see if that is causing some issues. My truck is being used by my dad or I would take a look and see if that has a relay or not and you can just remove that I don't remember.
#48
Well, I will admit it, I was wrong. There is only one wire connector going to the module.
Something else that I noticed just now crawling around uner my truck it were the wire from the relay goes. At the front left cab moun there is a large wire connector. The wire from my relay feeds into it, then into the factory harness and back to the module. This may be what you need to locate to find out if you have a intank pump.
Terribly sorry for misleading you.
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My truck has 2 large relays or solenoids mounted to the left fender, bleow the battery for the grid heaters. Both of them have very simple push on boots for the signal and ground to activate the relay/solenoid. They would be very easy to access and unplug.
Something else that I noticed just now crawling around uner my truck it were the wire from the relay goes. At the front left cab moun there is a large wire connector. The wire from my relay feeds into it, then into the factory harness and back to the module. This may be what you need to locate to find out if you have a intank pump.
Terribly sorry for misleading you.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
My truck has 2 large relays or solenoids mounted to the left fender, bleow the battery for the grid heaters. Both of them have very simple push on boots for the signal and ground to activate the relay/solenoid. They would be very easy to access and unplug.
Last edited by RAW; 08-07-2010 at 05:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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