5.9L 12V Performance Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps Related to Performance and Longevity

First towing run with my 12v, had a few issues.

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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 01:26 PM
  #21  
RanchhandTCR's Avatar
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Originally Posted by dezzrats
Its got a 4" turbo back, no cat, with a 4" muffler/6" tip.

During the winter we used to get paid to drive rigs off Wolf Creek Pass for people that couldn't do it. Those are some real mountains.
Its just another pass for me... the only excitment is when people realize that they will be sliding down the pass instead of driving down... Your an SLV boy...
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 05:08 PM
  #22  
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going to the 10 plate will help alot you will feel the hp loss tho for sure. 16* is where we set all the pumps that we have to retime for any reason. it should run fine for ya like that. the 10 is going to have less fuel down low which is gonna help ya control that heat.

i've been over wolf creek a few times. i love it out there
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 06:43 PM
  #23  
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After much research on the #100 plate, the heat issues I am having follow the profile of a #100 plate. After about 17-1800 RPM the plate goes to a #0 and that is where my EGTs go to hell real fast.
I could only use that much fuel if I had a bigger turbo, and a bigger intercooler, and the world was flat and I could put my trailer on a diet.

My intention is to tune with the #10 plate and if I can use all of it, full forward, I can always grind it a little and end up with a custom setup.

I will keep posting as I test and make changes.

Cumbers Pass is my favorite going in and out of the Valley in Colorado.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 09:46 PM
  #24  
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sounds like a good plan, i allmost mentioned moding the 10 plate also
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #25  
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Got the #10 plate in last night, I put it almost full forward and the AFC housing about midway. Driving it today and she has a little lag off the bottom but when it hits with boost it runs good. EGTs will go up and must be watched but not as bad as it did with the #100 plate. I need to tune it a little more and then see how she pulls the trailer.
I am convinced that the #100 plate was putting out the fire with too much fuel and just making heat. Looks like towing with a #100 plate is out of the question without many more mods and $$$.

Now I'm having problems with the torque converter lock up switch, starting a new thread on that subject,
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #26  
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gonna try a little more fuel on the bottom and slide the plate back just a little?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 12:29 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by cummin_un_glued
gonna try a little more fuel on the bottom and slide the plate back just a little?
Yup, that is the way I see it. Hell, I put in the plate in the dark by feel and just used a pen light to check the adjustment on the governor lever!
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 10:03 AM
  #28  
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i think that a little star wheel adjustment will get ya really close then if it still heats up at peak boost then i'd slide it back just a little. how much of a power difference did you notice at full boost with the 10 plate?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #29  
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At full boost the the #10 feels stronger, and I can stay on it longer before I have to back out because of EGT.

I plan on moving the plate back about 1/8th of an inch and backing off the star wheel for today's play time.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 01:52 PM
  #30  
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Your wallet may not be happy about this, but your best bet to keep your temps down would be to go with a set of compounds... if you use your stock turbo as your top one, you could get a slightly larger one, like a 71/74/.028 as a bottom one, and that would help a lot with your egts...
 
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