5.9L 12V Performance Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps Related to Performance and Longevity

crossover steering done

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  #11  
Old 05-10-2011, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by tower_ofpower
Try adjusting your steering box, deffinately fix your pitman arm issue... It may be the sector shaft in your steering box is toast. And cross over steering or not you need a stabilizer. The only way you can get by without the stabilizer is if you run a full hydraulic or hydraulic assist steering system.
the way i look at it you really shouldn't NEED a stabilizer, death wobble is from play in the system and a stabilizer acts a bandaid to fix that as long as the slop is between the steering wheel and the passenger knuckle.

i went out and took a look today and the pitmant arm and box are fine, aside from the massive power steering leek as always. the play is in where the drag link bolts to the pitmant arm, my bolt came loose. i ran it down with an impact gun with double distortion nuts, i guess ill switch to a castle nut and drill it for a cotter pin, maybe even weld the bolt to the pitmant arm on top to keep it more stable.

i guess im still working a few kinds out but overall im pretty happy with the setup.
 
  #12  
Old 05-27-2011, 08:25 PM
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just wondering what the diff is between doing this steering design and just swapping the tie rods on from the 98 trucks with the t steering design? thats what i did with mine and it seems to work out alot better than the y design
 
  #13  
Old 05-29-2011, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by cumminspwr11
just wondering what the diff is between doing this steering design and just swapping the tie rods on from the 98 trucks with the t steering design? thats what i did with mine and it seems to work out alot better than the y design
well inverted t beats inverted y by far because the tow never changes just like crossover steering. but its not crossover. crossover steering is better for a few reasons, 1: your drag link is longer with crossover, giving it a better angle. 2: your mounting the drag link on top of the steering knuckle which is higher up, once again, better angle on your drag link. and 3: your drag link isnt bolted to your tie rod causing a week spot.
 
  #14  
Old 05-30-2011, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevy355mark
the adjustment is on the lowers only. its very possible to have different caster from side to side if the lower link arm is short on one side, it just makes the axle sit under the truck in a twisted up manner... or at least thats what id imagine, i just rely doubt that that alignment rack is wrong.
Originally Posted by tower_ofpower
That's what I meant by the wheel base being shorter from one side to the other. Good news is caster is only a stability angle. No tire wear will come of it and it doesn't pull unless it's WAY out. As long as you still have your steering wheel return and your SAI is in check you're ok, shouldn't have a steering problem one out of it.
Actually the wheelbase will never change because the length of the top Suspension link never changes. It just tries to twist the axle tube itself.
 
  #15  
Old 08-27-2011, 03:28 AM
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well my brake line popped while i was offroading and i plowed down 3 trees so i wrecked my bumper and bend and dropped the tie rod so i built the steering over again and built a custom front bumper. Check it all out...

idk if you can see or not but the cross support between the frame rails is actually ripped out and hanging past the bumper from being pulled out.
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Can barely see how mangled the bumper and tie rod really are... they're in really bad shape
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All spot primered and bondoed up Ready for a coat of urethane Hot Rod Black
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New tie rod replacing the old bent one.
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Out with the old bumper, in with 200lbs of new steel!
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Getting started on the new bumper
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All tacked up on the new bumper
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I cut vent holes in the bumper and am going to put a piece of flat stock that connects to the core support thus ramming air through the radiator and inter cooler and such but I'm still afraid its going to cause overheating issues vs. the stock bumper which was pretty much a free air setup.
 

Last edited by Chevy355mark; 08-27-2011 at 03:44 AM.
  #16  
Old 08-30-2011, 10:08 AM
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That bumper is a beast
 
  #17  
Old 08-30-2011, 06:29 PM
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The trucks also getting ready for a coat of semi gloss hot rod black, thus the primer and bondo. also put a new set of pro comp mud terrains on. trucks kind of in the process of a major overhaul.
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moved the condenser up about an inch so it not covered by the bumper so much.
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Now i just need to put a brake line on, get the motor running(hopefully it doesn't need an injection pump), paint it and im deciding on doing a hood stack or a bed stack or just go back to the 6" chrome turn down dumped under the truck like i had before the welds broke and it fell off .
 

Last edited by Chevy355mark; 08-30-2011 at 06:35 PM.
  #18  
Old 09-07-2011, 04:23 PM
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my first bumper i built was more air tight than yours and i never had a problem with it over heating in az while towing 10,000+lbs trailers around

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

oh and your bumper looks good, i need to get on finishing mine
 

Last edited by cumminspwr11; 09-07-2011 at 04:23 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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