I think if I still had a shop Id do it my self but I cant even fit my truck in the garage we have now cuase its to tall. What was so hard about the retorques?

 

You might try looking into the cometic MLS or Phuzion for your application as well, with a set of studs. Just installed these in my buddy's truck so we'll see how it does.

 

Either have the head machined for o-rings and use the marine gasket.

Or.

Use the cometic MLS gasket.

Either way you need to have the head surfaced and use studs.

 

What is the highest psi and timing you can do without studs? and can you put in studs without pulling the head? in other words can I have the HG work done and do studs later on when I have the money for them?

 

one bolt at a time, and never do 2 close to each other one after the other, you risk breaking the seal, torque them wet with oil, gives a more true torque reading....

 

Yes you an do he studs later. Do them with line sequence torque method.

As was stated use lube on the stud, nut, and washer. However don't use oil. Use moly lube as stated in the instructions for the studs.

ARP studs include ARP moly lube and all the A1s I've ever ordered for customers included ARP moly lube in the package.

So, I'm going to venture a guess that somebody high up feels that it is a better option.

~Wes~

 

Ok thats good to know, I can have the hg done by a shop and do the studs my self. What is the max psi and timing the stock bolts will typically take?

 

Anybody know?

 

Apparently in your application less then you are making. Don;t just fix the problem... Fix the cause. If you have blown this one then it's a matter of time before the next goes.

 

Im going to do a cometic mls and studs. This one hasent blow yet its just leaking coolant bellow the t stat housing.