5.9L 12V Performance Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps Related to Performance and Longevity

Trans Temp Gauge

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Old Dec 14, 2007 | 11:53 PM
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xzaq103's Avatar
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FormerVendor
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From: Fayetteville AR
Default Trans Temp Gauge

Im planning on adding my Trans temp gauge in a few days. HOw do you guys hook it up? DO i drill and tap the pan somewhere? What's the best place to put it? Oh also does anyone have pics of where to put it im still really new to autos.

Chirs
 
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 08:11 AM
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make a new thread in request a price quote forum and get a "T" for yer hot line .................its the only way to go
 
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 10:18 AM
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Theres two way to go - 1) in the pan or 2) in the hot line.

If you go in the pan...B&M and others have a special fitting (Ill have to find a pic)


If you want it in the hot line (the best option I think) you will need something like this (cant give you the exact one because I dont know for sure what size the fitting on your sender is) :

http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...=SS-810-3-8TTF



You can also get a new line that has the fitting already installed.
 

Last edited by Dr. Evil; Dec 15, 2007 at 10:23 AM.
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 11:04 AM
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The hot line is by far the best and most accurate place to read how hot the trans. fluid is. You can T into the soft lines at the front with a barbed fitting and some hose clamps or get a replacement line from DTT (might be others that make them now) with it all set-up for you.

Many of the aftermarket pans come with sender bosses in them to accept the guage sender. I did tap my stock trans. pan before I got the mag-hytec pan on and it held fine w/ no leaks for about 6 months.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 11:19 AM
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Thanks for the help guys. Sounds like im going for the hot line. It sonds like if i want to go this way i ned a fitting. ill make a post in the price quote area.

Any one have a pic of the hot line and the best place to put the t fitting? Im guessing you just cut the line put the fitting in clamp it down. Will any fluid come out?

Chris
 
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 12:23 PM
  #6  
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I have some pics somewhere...can do some looking for ya.

If you go with what I showed you...yes, fluid will come out. You have to cut the line with a small tube cutter, debur the lines install the fitting, and tighten each nut 1 and 1/4 turns.

Not sure how much mechanical work you do but its pretty easy. The fitting I showed is stainless steel, you could go with a brass one for about 1/2 the cost (~$20 but Im guessing).
 
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 12:30 PM
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you can buy a whole different line with the "T" in it for the probe.....dunno who make sit though
 
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 02:06 PM
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A barbed fitting with clamps won't leak. I usto carry a short (6-8" long) piece of radiator hose and a couple hose clamps around with me to slid over the steel lines if they started leaking. Had to use it once and it didn't leak a bit.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Originally Posted by Whitmore
you can buy a whole different line with the "T" in it for the probe.....dunno who make sit though
DC has a line like that for the sender that sets off the idiot light in the cab. Crosses under the trans. just infront of the pan.

DTT's line. It's KW5536. I remember it being higher then $45 but I could be wrong.
 

Last edited by ndurbin; Dec 15, 2007 at 02:06 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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Dodge OE offeres a factory line that is very nice. The "HOT" line out has a housing built into it to accept the temperature sensor. Keep in mind that your heat-exchanger may have a check-valve on the inlet. The optional line I'm refering to comes with a soft flex line that ALSO has a check valve. Hence you will have two check valves in series. THIS is not what you should allow on your application. A good hydraulic shop will produce an "Open-line" with the correct fittings for you to remove the factory "flex-check-valve-line" for this factory unit. You will know if you already have a check-valve in the heat exchanger when you remove the original line...if tranny fluid does not back-flow into your arm pit during the removal of the original line than you already have the check valve...hence do not install another check-valve. The restriction is not what you want.

Keep in mind this optional factory line is powder coated. You must remove the coating where the fitting connects to your tranny outlet nipple to maintain proper DC grounding for the electrical temperature sensor's ground return. ALSO...where your temperatur sensor will nest into the cavity...this needs to be cleaned with a pick or dental tool to allow the body of the temperature sensor to have good DC ground to the line.

This modification will cause you to lose about 1.8 quarts of fluid during line removal and replacement...have some fluid to replace your losses.

Transmission pan temperature sensors do not tell you anything.

Splicing into a "soft" line with the adaptors to allow a sensor to be in-line creates DC grounding problems that this factory line eliminates.

These photos show this little goodie....the shape...and the "flex-check-line" that feeds your exchanger.

Good Luck
William
 
Attached Thumbnails Trans Temp Gauge-ctd-trans-coolent-line-002.jpg   Trans Temp Gauge-ctd-trans-coolent-line-003.jpg   Trans Temp Gauge-ctd-trans-coolent-line-004.jpg   Trans Temp Gauge-ctd-trans-coolent-line-014.jpg   Trans Temp Gauge-ctd-trans-coolent-line-011.jpg  

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