Competition Engine Build
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,719
Likes: 636
From: Lexington SC
*rebuild kit - given
*Mahle 13:1 .020 over marine pistons with coated skirts,rings, etc (maybe fly cut) - Mahle 286210
*Diesel Pros street cam - Hamilton
*Main studs - not needed
*Girdle - Cummins block stiffener would be sufficient
*Coated bearings, rods, etc - coated rods?
*hd rod bolts - not needed
*Billet CR tappets - 24v tappets
*.120 chromoly pushrods - if you like
*S400 single charger (I'm thinking 72mm) - what class?
*14mm headstuds - 12mm
*5x.018 injectors - 140° cone angle
*.093 Fuel lines - not needed
*ATI or Fluidamper harmonic balancer - yes
*fully balanced bottom end - not needed, but not a poor choice
Then as far as my head goes
*O Ringed - ok
*milled intake manifold - not needed, but if you like
*Full P&P - ok
*Oversized valves - not needed, but if you like
*Hamilton HD springs and retainers - ok
*Individual runner intake plenum - not needed, but if you like
*Mahle 13:1 .020 over marine pistons with coated skirts,rings, etc (maybe fly cut) - Mahle 286210
*Diesel Pros street cam - Hamilton
*Main studs - not needed
*Girdle - Cummins block stiffener would be sufficient
*Coated bearings, rods, etc - coated rods?
*hd rod bolts - not needed
*Billet CR tappets - 24v tappets
*.120 chromoly pushrods - if you like
*S400 single charger (I'm thinking 72mm) - what class?
*14mm headstuds - 12mm
*5x.018 injectors - 140° cone angle
*.093 Fuel lines - not needed
*ATI or Fluidamper harmonic balancer - yes
*fully balanced bottom end - not needed, but not a poor choice
Then as far as my head goes
*O Ringed - ok
*milled intake manifold - not needed, but if you like
*Full P&P - ok
*Oversized valves - not needed, but if you like
*Hamilton HD springs and retainers - ok
*Individual runner intake plenum - not needed, but if you like
and Rick listen to Weston he has built and helped build some AWESOME trucks/motors (he just dont advertise it
) Just out of wiled curiosity what do you plan on putting in to this thing money wise?
at this rate you might have the next Big Bad Dodge
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N.M. Bombers Director
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 797
Likes: 40
From: Corrales New Mexico
*rebuild kit - given
*Mahle 13:1 .020 over marine pistons with coated skirts,rings, etc (maybe fly cut) - Mahle 286210
*Diesel Pros street cam - Hamilton
*Main studs - not needed
*Girdle - Cummins block stiffener would be sufficient
*Coated bearings, rods, etc - coated rods?
*hd rod bolts - not needed
*Billet CR tappets - 24v tappets
*.120 chromoly pushrods - if you like
*S400 single charger (I'm thinking 72mm) - what class?
*14mm headstuds - 12mm
*5x.018 injectors - 140° cone angle
*.093 Fuel lines - not needed
*ATI or Fluidamper harmonic balancer - yes
*fully balanced bottom end - not needed, but not a poor choice
Then as far as my head goes
*O Ringed - ok
*milled intake manifold - not needed, but if you like
*Full P&P - ok
*Oversized valves - not needed, but if you like
*Hamilton HD springs and retainers - ok
*Individual runner intake plenum - not needed, but if you like
A start.
*Why the hamilton cam over diesel pros? Better design? The only thing I don't like about diesel pros is that it's a regring while hamilton is brand new.
*So instead of upgrading to the 14mm studs I should keep my 12mm ARPs that are already in?
*As for coated rods etc - moly coated skirts ceramic coated tops, with moly coated rod and main bearings
*Would stock fuel suffice, or should I at least be looking at the .084s or are those even not needed?
*As for the charger, I'm going to try my hand in the 2.8 class.
*Would fire rings be more acceptable over O Rings, or will I be fine with just o rings?
*If I did go as far as milling the intake and just have a stock aluminum intake manifold made would that suffice? Because if I don't need to spend the money on an individual runner intake then Im not gonig to do it. I might not even have the intake milled if I can get away with it..
Oh I'm listening to everyone. Competition are scarce out here in the southwest so I need to know what I'm doing before I can start ripping things out.
I wish I had the determination to have the next big bad dodge, but who knows maybe one day... I don't have an exact dollar amount right now. Right now I have a little over 10k ready to go into this engine build with some extra credit if needed. I've been planning on this every since I got my compounds and now I just have to make it the last few weeks of this semester before I can make this into reality.But I appreciate all the help and info!
Another thing I should probably address, whats the best to go about not blowing freeze plugs? I've got an electric water pump on the build list to help but what else can I do to prevent blowing freeze plugs? Coolant by pass?
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,719
Likes: 636
From: Lexington SC
yes thats what I have been told
Hamilton doesent grind his own cams the pics on his website are of colts facility. Diesel Pros does his own grinds his own cams. So why not go with someone who has built many high horsepower 12V's IMO. Diesel Pros had a 800+ Horsepower 12V 4 years ago just saying
Diesel Bombers Sponsor
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 391
Likes: 46
From: Iowa
Bryce, to answer your question; it would depend on what piston was in the rebuild kit, as there are a few options, and the compression ratio would vary a bit between them. As for the Ross pistons, they are quality pieces, the only thing I am not fond of is the center bowl location.
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 391
Likes: 46
From: Iowa
Couple questions...
*Why the hamilton cam over diesel pros? Better design? The only thing I don't like about diesel pros is that it's a regring while hamilton is brand new. I cannot in good conscious recommend Diesel Pro's from what I have dealt with, and seen.
*So instead of upgrading to the 14mm studs I should keep my 12mm ARPs that are already in? Yes
*As for coated rods etc - moly coated skirts ceramic coated tops, with moly coated rod and main bearings. Ok, only thing is ceramic coated domes won't lend themselves well to street use.
*Would stock fuel suffice, or should I at least be looking at the .084s or are those even not needed? Not needed with a 12mm P7100.
*As for the charger, I'm going to try my hand in the 2.8 class. A lot of options, price will depict what you want.
*Would fire rings be more acceptable over O Rings, or will I be fine with just o rings? Leave the O-rings.
*If I did go as far as milling the intake and just have a stock aluminum intake manifold made would that suffice? Because if I don't need to spend the money on an individual runner intake then Im not gonig to do it. I might not even have the intake milled if I can get away with it? The reason the intake is removed is so the ports can be reached. In the end game, for what you are doing, simplicity would suffice.
Another thing I should probably address, whats the best to go about not blowing freeze plugs? I've got an electric water pump on the build list to help but what else can I do to prevent blowing freeze plugs? Coolant by pass? Leave the stock water pump, clip 2 veins, and install a bypass from the rear freeze plug back into the coolant system before the thermostat. Most also drill a few holes of different diameter in the thermostat, but again that would take away from street use.
*Why the hamilton cam over diesel pros? Better design? The only thing I don't like about diesel pros is that it's a regring while hamilton is brand new. I cannot in good conscious recommend Diesel Pro's from what I have dealt with, and seen.
*So instead of upgrading to the 14mm studs I should keep my 12mm ARPs that are already in? Yes
*As for coated rods etc - moly coated skirts ceramic coated tops, with moly coated rod and main bearings. Ok, only thing is ceramic coated domes won't lend themselves well to street use.
*Would stock fuel suffice, or should I at least be looking at the .084s or are those even not needed? Not needed with a 12mm P7100.
*As for the charger, I'm going to try my hand in the 2.8 class. A lot of options, price will depict what you want.
*Would fire rings be more acceptable over O Rings, or will I be fine with just o rings? Leave the O-rings.
*If I did go as far as milling the intake and just have a stock aluminum intake manifold made would that suffice? Because if I don't need to spend the money on an individual runner intake then Im not gonig to do it. I might not even have the intake milled if I can get away with it? The reason the intake is removed is so the ports can be reached. In the end game, for what you are doing, simplicity would suffice.
Another thing I should probably address, whats the best to go about not blowing freeze plugs? I've got an electric water pump on the build list to help but what else can I do to prevent blowing freeze plugs? Coolant by pass? Leave the stock water pump, clip 2 veins, and install a bypass from the rear freeze plug back into the coolant system before the thermostat. Most also drill a few holes of different diameter in the thermostat, but again that would take away from street use.
Also should I be looking at an intercooler upgrade for this build? Spearco is probably the best I have seen for a decent price, looking at the IAT temp readings from different data log readings.
Also, as far as gearing goes 4:56s with 35s work?? This will depend greatly on the charger you use, track conditions, and sled type.
Also, as far as gearing goes 4:56s with 35s work?? This will depend greatly on the charger you use, track conditions, and sled type.
Last edited by Smokem; Nov 11, 2010 at 10:48 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
