well im about 30 miles north of albany, so it may be kinda a drive, try knocking it out then lemme know how to do it, cause i still aint rigged nothing up, are those cummins numbers?

 

No, those are International numbers, all the parts are from a DT466, which also had the P-pump... I have to get out to Batavia to pick up the parts, so it may be a few days until I can get there, but I'm sick of having to pop my hood in a parking lot to shut the truck off.

 

yea i did that for a while, then i just put it in 4th and let the clutch out, which probably aint good for it

 

I can tell you right now what you'll do if you keep that up.

1. Bust the input shaft or Clutch.

2. Blow up the input on the T-case (Which is what happened to me)

If I were you, I'd stop doing that, .

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Oh yea, and I ordered the parts for the shutoff cable, they'll have them friday, so I might have time to get to it this weekend. If I do I'll try and take pics of the install and do a writeup.

 

Alright, here's an update:

I picked up the DT466 parts today, not quite what I was expecting, its a PTO Cable, and some other little stuff that may or may not help, I wouldn't bother with it, just get stuff from TSC that'll work the same but be cheaper.

Still gonna have to fabricate some brackets for this thing to work right, and the little swivel you buy from Int. is $11 for something that looks like it should cost $.50, I was a little upset.

Gonna try and get this in tonight so I don't have to pop th hood all the time, but I'm not sure I have enough parts to do it right.

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Another Update:

It works! Haha... The cable is wayyyy to long, by like 5 feet, but you can cut it down to size with a cut off wheel, just make sure you pull the cable out about a foot on the handle end before you cut the cable, then push it back in and cut the inner rod where you need it.

Here's a list of steps, I dropped my camera, and it looks like it didn't make it (not the first time I've had to re-solder a few connections from dropping it).

1. Remove your intake horn, and original shutoff solenoid assembly with the 3 8mm bolts that hold it in; There are 2 bolts on the top that you'll need an extension for, and one on the back of the pump that also takes an extension, and rubber arms to snake down in there.

2. Pull the cotter pin on the shutoff arm and pull the whole thing out, make sure its unplugged.

3. Remove the old Shutoff solenoid from the bracket, and keep the bracket, do what you want with the solenoid.

4. Loosen the clamp bolt on the shutoff arm from the pump, and slide the arm off, you may need to pry it with a screwdriver a little bit.

5. Take apart the shutoff arm, its in 2 parts, held together with 8mm bolts, keep the part that slides onto the pump stud, chuck the part that the original shutoff solenoid connected to.

6. Take your spinner piece (the $11 one) and insert it into the middle hole on the shutoff arm, now secure it with a cotter pin. Make sure the larger part of the spinner points towards the pump, it WILL clear everything once its on, although it looks like it won't when you first look at it. Also, the lock pins that fit in the spinner to clamp the cable in should be in, but loose, you'll need to pick them up separate at a hardware store...2 8x32 allen pins.

7. Remove the bolt closest to the front of the engine that holds some of the throttle linkage in place, there are 2 right next to each other aft of the Governor Spring access cover. Its a 10mm bolt.

8. Locate where you want the cable to be mounted in the cab, and drill a 7/16" hole (or slightly larger) in the dash, and secure it with the jam nuts provided. You can put the handle on if you want, slide it on and clamp it with a 6x32 (I think) allen pin, you'll need to get this at a hardware store as well.

9. Route your cable through the firewall, and toward the pump, cut the cable to length like I described in the beginning of this post. Leave enough slack to work with it (an inch or two is all you need). (Look at the next post to see where you'll need to measure to)

10. Use a 1/4" padded clamp (For wiring, hoses, brake lines, etc., etc.) to hold the cable end to the pump with the 10mm bolt you pulled in step 7.

11. Replace your shutoff arm, remember the spinner goes towards the pump, and tighten your clamp down.

12. Snake your wire from the cable through the spinner, and make sure the shutoff arm is all the way in the "Run" position, as far as it can go towards the front of the engine. Leave about 1/8" showing on the handle side of the cable, tighten down the spinner clamps onto the wire. (Leaving the 1/8" will ensure that when the cable is pushed in to run that its all the way open, if its not you'll lose a lot of power.)

13. I cut down the original shutoff solenoid bracket to get rid of the goofy looking hole in the middle of it, because without getting new bolts you'll need to put it back in otherwise the bolts to the AFC housing won't clamp down on it, the threaded section is too long, and the bracket acts as a spacer.

14. Put your intake horn back on and test the cable, everything should work perfectly, after all... you did follow these instructions right? Haha.

Now keep in mind, this is for a PULL TO KILL application, which I think is safer, since the cable will be under tension to kill the truck, not compression. I'm sure you could easily modify this to make it a PULL TO RUN setup, but why bother? MAKE SURE YOU LABEL THE HANDLE "PULL TO KILL"!!! You never know, if you get in an accident, Emergency Personnel won't know how to shut off your truck if its not labeled, and that could be a serious problem if theres a fuel spill, or if your truck is still in gear, or whatever...its the safe thing to do.

If you have a better way to do this feel free to post it, but I haven't found a decent write up yet.

 

Good stuff - thanks.

 

when u took your solenoid out did you have to do anything with the wiring to complete the circuit so the truck would start?

 

i dont believe that should matter
those wires are only hott when key is on... so i would tape them up so you dont short anything out!!!

 

Just tape them up - the truck should start just fine, thats all I did with mine - the key just sends power to energize the solenoid and open the fuel shutoff valve, so if you take it out of the picture.. just push the manual shutoff in and you should be good!

 

I am having similiar problems. Am I wrong in assuming a 93 shutoff solenoid is different than a 94s? I am seeing photos of something I do not have. Mine looks like its internal, screws into the pump. It has 3 tabs sticking out of it. Doesnt look like the ones I see on ebay for replacement either.

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Anyone? No one?