So I was looking at a post about injector pumps. I noticed that the 215hp pumps have bigger injectors and 181 delivery valves over the 175hp pumps. All things being equal what will a 175hp pump "which is what I have" have with the same delivery valves and injectors as the 215hp pump. I notice that there is a bypass on the 215 pumps that retards pump timing at a certain point some how. I know that my goals are achieveable with the pump that I have now, but I was curious what rating the 175 pump would be if all things were equal.

 

There is a 160 pumped truck stock pump just maxed right out. That makes just over 700 horse on very fast twins. That's about all you'll get out of one and that's pushing it. 600 ish should be possible more commonly with a good set up. 160/175 are the same pump.

 

Ok so lets start a component list for building a budget twin set up out of a 1995 175hp pump. Comments, places to buy parts at better prices, machine shops that do O'ring head work in the Tennessee area, delivery valve and injector recommendations will be appreciated. The Goal is 500 to 550 useable towing horse power and if we get more so be it. The front cover has to come off to be resealed so now is a good time to change cams. Tips on replacing the followers with out pulling the motor, cam recommendations with stock pistons. Pump Timing. I already have a spare 12 valve head that I can build while I still drive the truck. This build will take time the parts are adding up quick.
2095 Mack Rack Plug $15.00
Better Exhaust MBRP PLM 5 in Exaust $322.00
Turbo Piping Kit Crazy Carl $1550.00
Arp Head Studs $495.00
Valve Springs $115.00
HT3B Turbo 26cm undivided housing $689.00
Input shaft upgrade $388.00
Cam $600.00 what size and manufacturer
Followers $200.00
Clutch ????
Injectors ????
Delivery Valves ????
Head Machine Work ????
Gaskets ????
Other Parts ????
And anything else you can think of.

 

Why twins for 500 horse? With a cam a single could easily make 500 and tow cool. 5x14's will get you 500 easily and there are many reputable places. And they don't need to be extravegantly priced to be good cpp makes a good product, I have personally delt with diesel tuff for everything that I can buy from them as they don't have a massive selection but their service and prices can't be beat. dv's basically take your pic, 024,022,191, 181,hybrids, everyone has an opinion on dv, seems like buy whatever you think is good and change out of it doesn't quite satisfy you. Just don't go crazy. I personally would go with a 63/68.83 t4

 

and then get whatever the biggest cam up to what you are comfortable with. from the sounds of it the 188/220 is the top of the street fast spooling cams. some people who have real experience may have a better opinion but by looking at whatever dyno comparisons there are of the 188/220 it always out spools the lesser cams which to me would equal better cooling, spool up and drivability with more low end. some will argue you don't need that big for towing or etc which may be true but since all the cams are exactly the same price (hamiltons are) and the improvement seems linear why not get the top of the street able cams? that my little thought on cams, i personally have a 188/220 that will be installed so i can make a informed comment but from research it seems top dog. there are other populars like the 181/208 i believe, theres a 178 too thats good for towing i think. look up hamilton or colt. id also invest in the 165 valve springs over the regular 60's since your already ***** deep in it and getting a cam, pushrods are ideal aswell, and new tappets although you can reuse if yours are within spec, and a cam gear retainer. stock cummins gasket with an o ring would be good. steed speed or other t4 manifold for the 63/68.83 t4. you can budget twins with a hx35 and ht3b but its a very dated technology and the single or a new better style twin set up would be better. but more money, thus why i suggest the 63. fast spooling, reasonable price and will make 500 horse for sure. clutch id say a 3250 style dual disk from south bend or valair. you could go 3600 but I'm not sure they have the same quiet technology as the 3250 styles. theres a lot of stuff to cover depending how in depth your going, at this point a fluidamper or ati damper would be ideal. 4sgk. an ext waste gate for the turbo unless you tune it with the fuel plate at first.

 

one more thing, concerning the 4gsk, unless you want it or are already driving with it id like to mention it is pretty touchy. the 3gsk can be tuned up i believe to get it around 3500 rpm and less touchy for the nv4500. i think i forgot timing, probably 16-18 would be good for you since you want to tow

 

This is good info, when you get your cam in let me know how it performs. I Have 3k gov springs but I don't have them installed yet. Do you know anyone who can o'ring a 12 valve head and do a good job. Are the new locks and retainers necessary, or will the older ones work fine with new valve springs. My truck has low miles 115,000 it unfortunately was a farm truck its had a rough life body wise. What about the new 7 x .009 injectors how do they stack up against the 5 x .014. I like the idea of less smoke with the 7 x .009 or 7 x .010. Black smoke is raw fuel, and raw fuel is a waste. Per what has been said will 181 or 191 delivery valves be enough to make 500 hp. When you tune the 3k gov springs, is that done by shimming or tightening them down 4 clicks like you do the stockers. Which is better the fluid damper or that ati damper. Also does borg warner make a good turbo I may be able to get a borg warner turbo cheaper but I need a part number to know what to order. Horse power is addictive and an it has a escalating effect. First comes more power then the drivetrain has to be upgraded.

 

it will be either with a 64/71 FI with a etr wheel and hopefully a custom .83 t4 housing, or with a single s467.7 and a turbine diverter valve, i will also have a none cammed truck with a super b special which is a 64/71/.85 t3 to compare too. i have no clue, i live in canada. I'm sure there are reputable shops around you, just look around or go through one of the bigger companies but might cost shipping and stuff so local would be ideal. the whole 7 or 5 hole injector thing is a debate. the differences seem to be fairly minimal and could be taken out by tuning better but if they are a similar price then go for whatever makes you feel better. i just go by standard sizes for hp numbers, if 7x9 is equivalent to 5x14 then go for it. 181, and 191 will make the power. dv's are tricky business, and has a lot to do with tuning. there are so many options id kinda just pic what sounds good from your research. they all have minor differences and I'm sure theres a thread about it. yes i believe if you crank the 3 gsk down you can get more rpm, once you have the fuel for it anyways. if that turns out to not be enough and you can stand the touchiness you can always upgrade to the 4gsk and run it loose ish. I've used a fluidamper on my old 6.5 and I'm going to do one on my buddies truck. i personally will be trying out the ati i think. as its 50 bucks more and is rater for all rpm while the fluidamper needs a special kit to truly be good for 4000 rpm so I'm gonna try the ati. basically your call, both are nice units. borg makes a box 63/68.88 for around 700 bucks and usually the place has options for other housings the .91 divided is what you want because the .88 isn't divided. if the place can get the .83 ar divided t4 thats what you really want and it will spool like crazy especially with a cam. i know for a fact that smeding diesel sells the turbo and the housing. there is also a 62/68 few that is supposed to be pretty fancy and basically flow the same as the 63 but faster. that with the .83 would make an amazing small turbo in twins later down the road if you ever wanted to go more. the 63 would as well, just a tad slower. and thats in theory they both may spool equal.

 

Why exactly the divided housing over the undivided housing. I though the undivided housing was more desired. I'm assuming that the .88 and .91 .83 are exhaust housing sizes. I understand the wheel sizing. That turbo your speaking of is priced reasonable 565 dollars plus options. I will have to look around at the oil return lines and adaptors to see what that's going to run price wise. This has been helpful.

 

Divided is more desirable because they offer better spoil. And ya those are the housing sizes. .83,.91 being divided and the .88 and .70 being undivided. Ya no problem, any other questions just fire away