BHAF questions.
#12
#13
#14
For some reason the early 2nd Gens had the worst air filters right out of the factory. Even the 1st Gen had a better filter rated at 450CFM, but they put it in a lousy airbox. Best bet would be a good drop-in replacement, keep the stock box for heat shielding:
94-02 5.9L Cummins Drop in AFE air filter : eBay Motors (item 120529476363 end time Mar-12-10 14:11:03 PST)
Nothing against BHAFs, done right of course.
94-02 5.9L Cummins Drop in AFE air filter : eBay Motors (item 120529476363 end time Mar-12-10 14:11:03 PST)
Nothing against BHAFs, done right of course.
Last edited by NadirPoint; 03-09-2010 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#15
fleetfilter.com sells #42790 BHAF Filters for $44. They ship fast. Almost half off the price the parts stores charge and they usually don't keep them in stock so you have to wait anyway.
I've ran them on my trucks, and all my friends trucks, even converted my lil bro's LLY Duramax to the #42790 BHAF filter.
I've never ran a heat shield, and have never had a problem. On my last truck I owned it for 3 years and was lightly bombed. Put 60k miles driven nearly everyday, 4 filters in that time period, no heat shield and the filter never came loose from the inlet tube. I've got friends with over 700hp running BHAF's because they've sucked cotton filters through their turbo and are sick and tired of replacing filters AND turbos. The BHAF holds up fine.
The paper BHAF's flow much better than any aftermarket filter out there, I don't care what the sleazy salesman tries to pitch you and I don't care what your friend who got ripped off and is trying to justify his uneducated purchase tells you. You can't beat the #42790 Filter.
Being a former competition turbocharger builder and avid boost enthusiast, I would NEVER put a cotton or oiled filter in front of a turbocharger.
I've ran them on my trucks, and all my friends trucks, even converted my lil bro's LLY Duramax to the #42790 BHAF filter.
I've never ran a heat shield, and have never had a problem. On my last truck I owned it for 3 years and was lightly bombed. Put 60k miles driven nearly everyday, 4 filters in that time period, no heat shield and the filter never came loose from the inlet tube. I've got friends with over 700hp running BHAF's because they've sucked cotton filters through their turbo and are sick and tired of replacing filters AND turbos. The BHAF holds up fine.
The paper BHAF's flow much better than any aftermarket filter out there, I don't care what the sleazy salesman tries to pitch you and I don't care what your friend who got ripped off and is trying to justify his uneducated purchase tells you. You can't beat the #42790 Filter.
Being a former competition turbocharger builder and avid boost enthusiast, I would NEVER put a cotton or oiled filter in front of a turbocharger.
#16
I suppose if not getting the most power availlable from your engine and not being able to drive it in the rain not a problem, than I would tend to believe that. A wet paper filter going into the turbo will do just as much damage as any other.
#17
First off, I dynoed my old bombed 1st gen with 3 different filter systems all within a few minutes of eachother on a Dynojet 248C. This was ONLY to see which filter actually put out the best power and no other tweaks or mods were done between runs. The truck ALWAYS made a consistent 340-345hp at the rear wheels. Stock Filter & Box & Stock Inlet Tube-329hp, Used BHAF & Stock Inlet Tube-344hp, and a friend's AFE & AFE Cold Air Tube- 341hp. So, in my case...a 3hp gain means I made MORE power with a BHAF. Even if it was the other way around, and the AFE made 3 more horsepower, it wouldn't justify the cost difference. You can't feel 3hp from the driver's seat.
Secondly, none of my BHAF's in 2 different trucks (one 1st Gen, one 2nd Gen) have never been wet. Even in a downpour, and with the 2nd Gen stock inner fender air tube thing still in place, no filters ever got wet in 3 years. And in the 1st gen, the BHAF mounted up behind the headlight and it never got wet. I had to pull over at a truckstop in my 1st Gen due to heavy rain where I couldn't see the road. I pulled under the awning at the pumps to stretch my legs and proceeded to check my fluid levels and even wrapped my hand around the filter...nothing. As for the heatshield...I never felt there was a reason for it. Of course, I've never done a dyno comparison to see if it made any difference in power by having a heat shield and not having one. But no filters were ever melted, scorched, or showd any signs of getting too hot.
So...This is only my personal experience, and my personal opinion. I'm looking at it from all angles...price, power increase, durability, longetivity. I've had to rebuild more turbos than I can count...all with traces of blue,red,orange cotton stuck in the impeller nut. I ask them "did you have a K&N or similar filter?" and 90% of the time the answer was YES. I tell them to put a paper element back in it's place when they install the turbo I just built or rebuilt for them, and I don't hear back from them after that...I take that as a good thing, but that's just me.
I don't know if my previous post offended you or something, as it wasn't meant to offend, but meant to inform. It was just my $.02. Opinions are like ********, don't take my word for anything, tie your rig to a dyno with a few filters and see the difference for yourself, your case may be different.
See ya.
Secondly, none of my BHAF's in 2 different trucks (one 1st Gen, one 2nd Gen) have never been wet. Even in a downpour, and with the 2nd Gen stock inner fender air tube thing still in place, no filters ever got wet in 3 years. And in the 1st gen, the BHAF mounted up behind the headlight and it never got wet. I had to pull over at a truckstop in my 1st Gen due to heavy rain where I couldn't see the road. I pulled under the awning at the pumps to stretch my legs and proceeded to check my fluid levels and even wrapped my hand around the filter...nothing. As for the heatshield...I never felt there was a reason for it. Of course, I've never done a dyno comparison to see if it made any difference in power by having a heat shield and not having one. But no filters were ever melted, scorched, or showd any signs of getting too hot.
So...This is only my personal experience, and my personal opinion. I'm looking at it from all angles...price, power increase, durability, longetivity. I've had to rebuild more turbos than I can count...all with traces of blue,red,orange cotton stuck in the impeller nut. I ask them "did you have a K&N or similar filter?" and 90% of the time the answer was YES. I tell them to put a paper element back in it's place when they install the turbo I just built or rebuilt for them, and I don't hear back from them after that...I take that as a good thing, but that's just me.
I don't know if my previous post offended you or something, as it wasn't meant to offend, but meant to inform. It was just my $.02. Opinions are like ********, don't take my word for anything, tie your rig to a dyno with a few filters and see the difference for yourself, your case may be different.
See ya.
Last edited by TXHC; 03-10-2010 at 06:20 PM.
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kayden101 (04-05-2010)
#18
#19
It's COMPRESSED and INTERCOOLED air, believe it or not. This changes the typical "well known" principles of the molecular structure of air, including temperature, density, and engine vacuum. It's not worth explaining, so I'm not going to go any further into this. It's just an air filter.
Last edited by TXHC; 03-10-2010 at 09:06 PM.
The following users liked this post:
kayden101 (04-05-2010)