First off, I want everyone who reads this thread to know that I absolutely love the PacBrake system. I have 86k on my truck and still the original brake pads!! This is the BEST investment I have made on my pile in four years of ownership.

However, it hasn't all been sweet. After a year, a solenoid went bad and was replaced under warranty. Than last year, the compressor blew so I bought a new one from PacBrake and got the air tank and new pressure switch back in December. I hooked up a set of Grover air horns to the system and it works great. This morning I drive to work and everything is fine. Drive home from work and now the brake doesn't work. The brake itself was making the engaging sound (loud click) but nothing was happening. Checked under the hood for loose wires but found none. Now I have nothing, no brake or horns. Shop that installed can't take me until Tuesday, so I would like to try and fix it myself. Any thoughts on where to look will be much appreciated. I am so used to the brake and now that its not there really sucks. Thanks again for any help.

 

all exhaust brakes are a fail open valve .......meaning with no power or vacumn to them at all and the valve will remain open

pull the actuator off the stem of the valve and check to see it the butterfly portion of the valve functions

process of elimination

valve or actuator?????

 

It could also be a fuse. Mine kept blowing fuses. Then I found an update that said the 20 amp fuse wasn't enough and to go to a 30 amp fuse and since then it's been flawless. Whit is right though, if not the fuse I would check the mechanical first to make sure it would operate given the function and then it's a pressure switch, compressor motor, the relay or the cylinder is stuck. If you aren't getting any air though I would have to go with the fuse, motor, relay or pressure switch.

 

I installed one on a customer's 04.5. He called me saying it stopped working... then called me back saying that he stopped for fuel... and when he restarted it was working again.
he also mentioned that he had bumped his keys while driving and I'm guessing the computer got pissed.

like they said, it's a really simple device. provided that the valve wasn't sent southbound while you were headed northbound it'll be real easy to chase it down.

 

Guys, he got it fixed, they originally shipped with 20 amp fuses, and are now suggesting the use of a 30 amp in its place due to them blowing the 20's with no good reason.

 

Yes I did fix it, thank you Mike. I called Harold and he told me that they should run 30 amp fuses in there, not 20 amp.