my 5 speed has had no problems handling the smarty s06 all stock never been above sw 7 though cause you will break stuff then.

 

If you ever drove the Smarty to its full capability on even SW3 you could slip the clutch at will. Stock clutch is no better than stock TC, thats the way they are built.

 

I drive it everyday on sw5 so far so good but I do plan on getting a southbend dual disk for it.

 

What are the distinct advantages of an aftermarket valve body besides the pump in park feature? I was just wondering because they also make a pressure increase switch for the 48re that lest you boost pump pressure at the turn of the dial.. making it "high pressure" at mid-range application where the 48re seems to struggle so much.

 

With the aftermarket VB you get a shift kit, hopefully new needed internal parts, and new wiring harness. About $150 in parts most of the time. The shift kit raise the line pressures and firms up the shifts is about it.

There is no model or box that will allow raising pressure at the turn of a switch. The line pressures are set by the PR vlave, the springs, and the setting. All you can add is a shift enhancer that advances the TTVA motor faster than the stock program.

 

Well how much HP do you think a setup like this could handle:

Triple Disc Billet TC
GOEREND High Pressure VB
Transgo Shift Kit
Deeper Pan
Tranny Cooler

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I'm only looking at a smarty and 60hp Dragonflies with a FASS.

 

I now have 60,000 miles on Maelo eight with the smarty box turn on the highest setting And yes I pull trailers a lot every weekend. You have to be smart and know how to drive. When you feel a converter starting to chatter you got a let off. You can't ease on the pedal and expect to accelerate you have to take your foot off the pedal and then push it down do it down shifts and locks up.


Getting paid to do this.

 

Oh, it wil handle all the power you can make with your mods. For a while. Or until you hammer to hard at right time. Stock it would handle it for a while.

On the other hand, the TQ with the bigger injectors and Smarty turned up will eat the trans for lunch, no where near enough mods in the trans to handle 900+ ft\lbs for very long. Three passes at the drag strip and you would be towing it home, or, you could drive it like that for several years by controlling your right foot.

Triple TC without a billet input shaft is asking for trouble. If all you are doing is these mods and you not towing all the time a good single is a better choice. If you are doing a TC then you it is not that big of a deal to add the input. When you do the input you might as well do the better front band and rebuild the forward and direct clutch packs so it will last.

 

What exactly do I need to ensure it doesnt blow anything up? This truck will NEVER be at a drag strip and the towing wont be anything more then normal. The most this thing will ever pull is a smaller 5th wheel camper when I get one (possibly a car trailer) but for now its just a simple pop up and a boat.

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What if I did a full blown goerend transmission?

 

A full Goerend or any other quality trans would be fine.

For what you are doing, a good single disk TC with billet front servo, accumulator, billetband strut\anchor, shift kit or aftermarket VB would suffice.

If you want to go furhter then its different clutches and steels, different front band and billet shafts.